I am replacing two damaged ac lines on my 1996 z28. I have a vacuum pump so I am going to try to recharge the system my self. My question is after I vacuum out the system how much R134 and oil do I need? And what is the procedure for adding the R134 and oil? Thanks

 

if you have the ac machine it should have a hoes that does both the oil and freont. if your using the same parts just new lines then you will only need about 1/3 of the bottle. and about 2 lbs of freont. the machine should have a seperate little chamber to add the oil and then it will come out through the hose along with the freont. and make sure you get new seals for the lines and check for leaks all the way to your dash or firewall.also double check the valve stems for leaks right after you refill. you can use alittle soap and water or spit and put it in the valve chamber. hope i helped brother. any other questions just reply.

 

If you have a seperate vacuum pump, you'll need a 134-A manifold gauge set with hoses. You hook the hoses from the gauge set up to the car and the vacuum pump.

 

its actually called freon, but in any case if you only have a vacuum pump its allright . first hook up the yellow hose from your gauges(what? no gauges?) to the pump and the blue hose to the low presure side of the system.low side is after the evaporator coil(the coil behind the dash) open the valve on the pump and turn the pump on (oh yea there should be a sight glass on the pump , make sure you see oil in the pump this is oil for the pump to operate and has nothing too do with the ac system) after a few miniuts the blue gauge should start to read in the hg or below 0 vacum . run the pump until the inches of mercury or hg is at 30 in. if 30 inches cant be achived then you proabably have a leack somewhere else. if 30 in. is achived than shut the pump down and let sit. the vacum or negative pressure should remain in the system as per the blue gauge. pulling a vacum on a system is not the same as vacuming a rug. it is done to evaporate any moisture in the system and leak check the system. water evaporates under a vacum so all moisture is removed from the system in this maner. under your hood there should be a sticker somewhere that has the charge in lbs on it and the oil amount in ozs. get a few cans of FREON from your local auto parts store and hook the hose up to the low side port. DO NOT LIQUID CHARGE!(charging by turning the can upside down and pushing liquid freon into the system you may bend the valves in the compressor . THE COMPRESSOR CANT COMPRESS A LIQUID!) small cans are messured in ozs so just do the math and turn ozs into lbs and dont over charge. after the vacum pulls the first can into the system start the motor and turn the system on. the compressor should CLICK on and add the rest of the freon. most of the oil should remain in the compressor so it shouldnt need a lot of oil. good luck

 

Since we are being picky, Freon is the brand name that belongs to Dupont. Generically, it is refrigerant.

 

That's what I have. So I will be vacuuming to 30in and make sure the pressure remains in the system. I have the setup to add the freon from autozone so I will use that. Only problem is I have a after market hood and my stickers with info on the fluids have been removed. But I think autozone can look up the charge in lbs. Thanks

 

LT1 takes 2LBS. Eric L

 

obviously i know what it is ( i have universal certification) and i know its not freont, but lets get really technical and give it a real name: haloalkanes (also known as halogenoalkanes or alkyl halides) are a group of chemical compounds, consisting of alkanes, such as methane or ethane, with one or more halogens linked, such as chlorine or fluorine, making them a type of organic halide. They are a subset of the halocarbons, similar to haloalkenes and haloaromatics. They are known under many chemical and commercial names. As flame retardants, fire extinguishants, refrigerants, propellants and solvents they have or had wide use. Some haloalkanes (those containing chlorine or bromine) have been shown to have negative effects on the environment such as ozone depletion. The most widely known family within this group is the chlorofluorocarbons

 

Wow, you are certified by the universe?!

Yeah, I had already read all about it on the internet.

 

if you were certified you would know that means. iv past the core and parts 1 2 and 3 of the test. that is universal certification. that means i can work on all types of equipment. 1 being small appliances , 2 being split systems and 3 being commercial chillers and the such.