Well, I figured I would finally break down and sign up and see if I can find out if anyone else has ran across these problems. I have a couple of them so I will list each and any help I can receive on any of them would be helpful.

I have a 95 Camaro Z28 with a Six Speed tranny.

Problem 1. After replacing the clutch and plugging in all the sensors I am left over with one gray sensor that has a single pole in the center. I cannot find a single place that it would go into, and I have no idea where it would attach to.

Problem 2. Replaced Slave/Master Cylinder assembly, the clutch won't disengage. This is the second Slave/Master Cylinder I have put on it as the first one blew apart for no reason.

Problem 3. Brake pedal wasn't going down and the brake light is on. Replaced the booster and still having the same issue. The only way it will go down is if it is started and it will go down slightly. Then turning it off the pedal goes stiff again.

Please someone help me, I am pulling out my hair over this.

 

1 - Since you there aren't any sensors on the clutch, do you mean the connections on the tranny?

There are three devices on the drivers side:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...n/T56Conns.jpg

There's a single connector on the passenger side for the backup light switch.

All of those are 2-wire connections.

The single wire, gray connectors on the engine would include the oil pressure sensor and the knock sensor but you wouldn't disconnect those as part of a clutch replacement.

2 - Are you sure the fork is correctly on the T/O bearing?

3 - Which light is on..... the "BRAKE" light on the dash, or the brake lights on the rear of the car? The "BRAKE" light can indicate 1) e-brake is on; 2) unequal pressure in the front and rear hydraulic lines; 3) problem with the ABS unit. With an ABS problem, the "ABS INOP" light would akso be on.

Did you do anything at any point to the brakes as part of installing the clutch? If so, what?

 

1. All four connections are in. Could it just be an extra line from some previous job that a former owner did to it? I'm the third owner.

2. I took the slave cylinder off and it never even broke the clip when it was on. There is no play coming from the slave cylinder when the clutch is pressed. Seems I got a bad unit, so I will be taking it back.

3. The Brake light, the only time the brakes were touched would be from the emergency brake being on. It is possible with all the temperature changes and humidity the brakes may be stuck in the back. So I just need to get them to release themselves. Feel kind of stupid if I replaced the booster for nothing. :<

 

1 - What exactly is it that you found? You indicate it's a "sensor", but you describe it as "one gray sensor that has a single pole in the center". Do you actually mean it's an electrical harness connector with one wire/pin? Or is it an actual sensor that need to be pushed into or screwed into something? Where exactly is this piece located - near the trans, near the engine, ??????

Here's Shoebox's 95 harness with labeled connectors? Is it one of these?

1995 Z28 A4 Engine Harness

3 - If the brakes were stuck in the rear, it wouldn't turn on the "BRAKE" light. If the switch on the e-brake handle was stuck, it would turn on the "BRAKE" light.

 

Did you replace the clutch master and slave with a complete set or individually. The ones that come with the master, slave and reservoir connected are pre-bled. If you replace individual components you have to bleed the system.

 

1. It looks like the knock sensor connector, but it is wired all the way back to the transmission. the wire has been played with as it has a wire nut holding it onto the wire that feeds back towards the engine. I haven't tried to trace the line.

3. But is it possible that the brakes are locked up in the rear and the brake sensor on the parking brake handle is stuck?

I've replaced it with the complete assembly, the first one blew apart on me, and the second one is full of air. So I plan on returning that one and going to someone else to get the assembly.

 

You should be able to determine if the rear brakes are "stuck" simply by trying to rotate the wheels.