Hey everyone,

I recently replaced my battery and was having some problems with the connections, but I've solved that today...around the same time, the car has decided to not start when the key is turned all the way.

The lights on the dash all come on when the key is first turned to the run/on position, but when I try to crank it the lights go off (as normal) and nothing happens. No starter sound, no solenoid sound, nothing. Fuses and relays are all good, checked fuses and swapped fan relays to ensure they were all functional. The car was driving fine before I parked it, then it didn't start for about 20 turns of the key. The one time it DID start, the car ran fine, and it made it back to the house, where it hasn't started again for about 50 key turns.

I took off the panels under the steering column this morning to find all the switches that could be the culprit. My prime suspect is the clutch switch. I dismounted it and pressed it in by hand to start the car, but still got nothing.

Is there a way to bypass using the switch, so I can verify if that's the problem or not before I head to the parts store? I do not have a multimeter, so I cannot check for juice, plus I'm electrically challenged.

Thanks

 

Jump the two leads that go to the clutch switch to bypass it. Another possibility is your ignition switch.

 

It took me three times to pass my electrical engineering fundamentals class in college. I'm bad with the lingo. Are you suggesting I ground the ground lead and supply 12V to the power lead somehow?

I saw ignition switches would cause this problem too, so I'll look into that as well. Do you believe (in the 95-100% range) one of these two things are my issue before I start throwing money around at the store?

Thanks!

 

He means you should connect the two wires that plug into the clutch switch. That will complete the circuit that allows the starter to work. That is what the switch does when you press the clutch pedal.

 

Is your "security" light flashing, or staying on after you try to start the car?

 

Is this done by just putting a piece of wire into both pins?

And no, the security light functions as normal. Comes on with other dash lights when key is first turned but goes out after trying to start the car.

 

Connecting the pins in the harness connector wit a single piece of wire will work.

 

I had tried that the other day, but it didn't work, so I guess that eliminates the clutch switch as the problem. Unfortunately, I disconnected the brake switch in order to GET to the clutch switch, and left it dangling all day while I was at work. I came home when it was dark and noticed my brake lights had been on all day due to that switch being dismounted, so the battery is really drained now.

I plugged it up to a trickle charger but now it acts like the battery isn't even connected to the car. No lights, no lock/unlock, nothing. This morning I went out there and unlocked the car without any problems and tried to start it but the battery didn't have enough juice to even try. Guess I'll just leave the trickle charger on it for a while and see if it at least recognizes the battery is connected.....

 

I got underneath the car and tapped the starter with a hammer while someone was turning the key and still no dice. I'm kind of left with the main possibility being the ignition switch. However, shoebox's page about changing the ignition switch states that the main symptom of a faulty ignition switch is there being no lights on the dash. All my lights function as normal when the key is turned from off to run, and then they function correctly once the car fails to start and the key is returned to the run position. From my understanding, the ignition switch controls several things, so here's my next question...

Is it possible for only part of the ignition switch's functions to fail? As in, can all the lights work on the dash as normal, but signals sent to the ignition system, starter, pcm, etc fail at the same time?

 

And another update:

I went out and tried to fumble with the tilt steering feature and try starting the car with different pressures on the key (up, down, towards me, away from me, etc). Once, it tried to fire, but the car lost spark before completely starting up. Then there was no luck for about 60 key turns and I'm done with it for the night. Its starting to seem more like an ignition cylinder issue. Anybody agree or disagree? The security light does not illuminate after first turning the key to ON however. If the cylinder were bad, would the security light either flash or stay lit?

I figured if the ignition switch is bad, then it wouldn't even be able to try to start like it just did (the first time in about 200 attempts). So I'm back to have two possible problems...

 

a freind had a very similar problem on a 97 gti. all signs pointed to a bad starter. simptoms were virtually identical to yours. we put in a new starter, nothing. then he decided to just go out on a limb and replace the ignition switch, and that fixed it. no problems since.

 

Check fuses that are powered when the key is ON. If they have no voltage, then it is likely the switch, connection to the switch or switch adjustment. Ignition switch failure is common.

4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

 

I JUST got done with the switch replacement. Pretty smooth process, thanks to your write up. However, the same symptoms persist. I was able to check power to the clutch safety switch and got 12.2V. Other than that, its tough to check fuses because of nobody else being here to try to start the car while I'm checking. With the switch on, I have power to the locks, windows, interior lights...all the switched power seems to work. I'll remove the starter and take it to the store to be tested. Maybe its just that simple....

 

You can test the starter without pulling it with a set of jumper cables hooked directly up to the starter.

 

I had already taken off the starter and gotten it tested at Advance. They said it checked out fine. I reinstalled it and my problem is still there.

So, from the battery to the starter, here is my logic circuit.

Battery - gage reads ~12.X volts

Battery leads - no corrosion

Ignition switch replaced, functions correctly as far as I can tell. Turn key from off to ON, lights on dash illuminate. Turn key to START, lights go out. Lights reilluminate when key returned to ON.

When the key is turned to START, relays click (audibly and can physically feel them click)

Starter tested good, but does not crank.


What is between the starter and the relay!? What are the "fusible links" coming off the fuse box...anything I should look into? Is it possible the ignition switch needs just a smidgen of adjustment? If the key is turned to start and the lights illuminate and relays click, is there any other job for the ignition switch to do? What about the ignition cylinder lock? The security light is NOT illuminated after the initial light-up from turning the key to ON.