Which resistor are you talking about Frank? The one on the key?

According to the passkey chart http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key no resistors were any where near only 10ohms

Also, Shoebox:

If you were to wire in the resistor and have the vats fuel shutoff tuned out, would this effectively stop VATS from being able to not allow you to start the car? Or what else would you need to do?

 

Just found this on ebay, do they really work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-VA...spagenameZWDVW

 

Well, I got the car started tonight.I used jumper clips on the resister to make a better connection on the bypass and I also bypassed the vats relay(purple and yellow wires). It started right up but only runs for a few seconds then stalls.The security light is still on. Does this sound like the vats module is bad or could it still be something else.Some progress is better then none at all.

 

My next question is if I do replace the vats module , this will mate to the key and the ignition cylinder, correct.Also as stated in one of the other posts above, do you think the bypass module on ebay will help me resolve my problems without all these other bypasses.Thanks for all the help-John

 

Yes, they work. It is for bypassing the signal the VATS module or BCM supplies to the PCM to allow fuel delivery. It is not the same bypass as the resistor used for the key pellet.

 

Either the VATS module is not seeing your resistor (resistor, wiring...) or your VATS module might be bad. Since you have bypassed the theft deterrent relay and are able to crank the car, adding the Ebay module will allow the car to run.

If you install a new VATS module, it will program itself to the key that you have (assuming the circuitry is complete and it can actually read it). This automatic programming only works one time.

 

Thanks again. I will get one of the module bypasses and will post the results.

 

So if i were to install the resistor to bypass the key pallet, and have the fuel cutoff tuned out, the vats would be totally bypassed?

 

Not totally. If you use the resistor, then you still are relying on the VATS to enable the theft deterrent relay. If you bypass the relay (in addition to your programming), you won't need the resistor for the key and the VATS module would not even have to be present.

 

What does bypassing the relay entail?

 

Just like rottonj said, jumper (connect) the purple and yellow wires. Have you looked at the VATS schematic on my site?

 

Hadnt seen that schematic on your site before for whatever reason.

Ill definetly try this, alot easier than messing with a resistor, plus i can have the fuel cutoff tuned out for free.

Yet again, thanks shoebox

edit: Will jumping the yellow and purple wires together make it so the car will start without the clutch pushed in? Or is that function of the theft deterrent relay retained?

 

Jumpering the yellow (C1) and purple (A2) completely bypasses the relay and the clutch switch/transmission range switch. So, the starter will now engage when in gear.
If you want to retain the relay and the clutch/transmission lockout ability, do nothing but permanently ground the yellow/black (A1) lead to the relay (don't disconnect or jumper the yellow and purple). That will allow the relay to operate when the key is in the START position, regardless of what the VATS is doing.

 

I got the Vats bypass module from Ebay, it was like 28 bucks shipped. Three wires simple hookup. The car started right up and stayed running. Thanks again for all the help shoebox.

 

I guess that answers the question "do they really work?".

Now, you are an expert.