I think this would be very helpful.

 

YES, we need a sticky!

I am new to this forum, but have worked on my Mustang quite a bit. But as I get older, my memory and what I know seem to get confused, so a sticky would be a great place to look for all info for injectors, sizing, pressure, etc.

Most of the posts when I did a search was for 'what size with this engine' (injuneer answered this), 'what brand and why', and 'matched set and why'

Not having replaced my fuel pump (yet) I assume that you have to drop the tank to do it 'by the book'. Unless it is radically different than my Mustang (two straps, two or three hose clamps) dropping the tank is cake.... as long as you take care to run it almost empty first.

 

Problem with dropping the 4th Gen fuel tank is the exhaust system and the rear axle assembly are both in the way. Its made even worse by a crooked fill pipe that is very difficult to maneuver out of the fender. I think it might be a bit more difficult than "a piece of cake".....

Now that everyone has come up with those great ideas...... who is going to write them up?

 

Well...now that you point them out, I see the muffler and pipes all in the way. Funny how you only see things a certain way sometimes.

Guess I better start reading on cutting a hole... I know i will need to upgrade my fuel pump for the new engine and future mods...

 

Maybe its just me...but I would rather take abunch of stuff apart rather than cut a hole in my car

 

It seems like butchering your car, but its not that bad if you patch it up right. It's a hell of a lot easier unless you need the tank out for another reason. The only thing i ran into was that it was kind of difficult to reach the fuel line disconnects which are kind of around the corner from the hole.

 

Well.... since I am involved with upgrading my car anyway... at what point do 255 lph in tank pumps become not enough?

Realistically, how much power can you make before the in tank pump starts to cause a dangerous lean condition? 500 hp? 600 hp?

And I like the aluminum plate over the hole, with aluminum rivets. No rust, and just put some RTV under it to keep water out. Plus, it is fairly easy to remove if needed in the future.

FYI, my alldata manual states that to R&R the fuel pump is 4.6 hours. Hell, if you do the engine the easy way, you can have it and the k member out in less time than that.

 

According to the retailers, one good in-tank pump getting full voltage is supposedly good to ~500 hp NA, the stock lines supposedly can support ~700 hp with two in-tank pumps. Blower cars gulp more fuel than NA and, depending on how much power they're making, have more fuel demand. Some tricks to get more out of a system include boosting the voltage to the pump with electronics, getting full voltage to the pump by using larger gauge wiring direct from the alternator, or possibly boosting fuel pressure.

Actually, I just used some 8-32 button head allen screws holding my SS plate down. You dont get much thread in the sheetmetal, but it was easy to gun the tap through there and it was almost as easy as rivits. Now that I'm getting ready to upgrade it again, I'm glad it's screws.

 

Has anyone ever used a pre-fab door, like the one that Competition Engineering makes... its only a 6"x6" opening? Would the pump/bucket assembly fit through that?

http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=10071

 

I suppose the cutout would be easier even if the muffler was out of the way, after looking (or trying to see) all the pipes and such. I never thought the Mustang would be called 'easy' to replace the fuel pump, but I did it in less than an hour in the driveway.

Time to fire up the plasma cutter... oh, wait... theres gas below the trunk floor. What did you use to cut the hole out with?

Somewhere in my assortment of screws and such are some 10/32 rivet nuts... the go in a hole in sheetmetal like rivets, but when you pull the 'rivet shaft' out, there are threads left inside.

 

[quote=Injuneer;5218390]Has anyone ever used a pre-fab door, like the one that Competition Engineering makes... its only a 6"x6" opening? Would the pump/bucket assembly fit through that?

It wouldnt be possible to get to the line disconnects and stuff and the lines stick pretty far out the sending unit - I dont think you could use it for this application, although something similar in a larger size might work.

 

dbrockma:

You'll end up using tin snips. There is very little clearance between the sheet metal and the top of the fuel tank.

 

I used a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel. It takes about two or three minutes to do. I should have drilled the corners first, but I forgot to.

 

Another good question.... why 4 lines instead of 3? You only need one pressure and one return, and one vapor, right?

My alldata manual shows only 3 lines from the pump and 3 lines out of the cap.

 

On the stock system, one goes to the vent, one to the carbon canister, one for fuel and one for return.