Hey guys, I wanted to set up my fuel rails for AN fittings so I could run in parallel on another project car or maybe my Camaro in the future sometime. In any case I couldn't find much info when I searched except for one thread from several months ago, so I figured I would post some pictures for others if they want to do it.

Driver's side is easy because you just pull the regulator out after you unscrew it from the bracket, but the passenger side is a little more difficult. The end of the rail has a lip on it that holds the o-ring fitting and hard line in place.



You have to cut the hard line off and then grind that lip off to pull the fitting out. After I ground the lip off the fitting still wouldn't come out so I tried to pry on it with a screw driver and a punch and it wouldn't budge, so I ended up with a 3/8 drill bit and I drilled into the fitting and the bit actually got stuck and started spinning the fitting in the rail, so I then just put it in reverse and pulled it out. The end result is this.



Now all I have to do is figure out if I'm running in parallel or series and get the correct fittings and have them welded on to the end/ends and I'll be ready to go. Of course if I run in parallel then I'll need to hook a return line to the front of the rail like Injuneer or Lethal and I'll be all set.

 

I purchased a 3/8 npt female union from Summit and TIG welded it to the Passenger side rail. Had to remove the anodize coat off the fitting. B.

 

What progress have u made on this bro any more pics

 

Been running modified rail for 5+ years. Had to do cuz I run 72# injectors and a dual Walbro in tank pump arrangement (97ss 383 - D1). I use a series circuit with an Aeromotive reg (they make a rail mount piece) on the driver side rail for tank fuel return. I know... Series is not as good as parallel. But, it works for me and takes less space. I feed the drivers side rail with -8an (1/2") Aeroquip socketless hose. My fuel system is my own custom design (twin intank pumps with KBell booster). I TIG welded (remove the anodize) a 3/8 npt female union (avail from Summit) to the passenger side rail. I use a -8an x 3/8npt 45* male fitting to start the wrap around near the cowl. The main fuel run follows the conventional stock line track to the rear of the manifold (a good path to avoid header heat & hot spots). Aeroquip socketless hose and fittings are alot less cost (and easier) than braded hose. I have pics, but, I need to learn how to post them. I see I cannot just insert a jpeg. B.

 

You can only post photos if they are already on the internet. If they are, copy and paste the http://...... address into the post to produce a link, or embed the address between the [img] ...address... [/ img] tags to make the photo appear in the post (leave out the space between "/" and "i" in the closing tag).

Will the Aeroquip socketless hose pass NHRA tech?

 

No progress, I'm putting a stock rebuild into my Camaro and the LE1 motor will be going into a 77-78 Trans Am. I'll be using the fuel rails on that car so I have some time before I need to finish them. When I do I will post pictures of the fittings and stuff and how it turned out.

 

I was about to make thread about modifying for AN but I seen this..I would like info from folks who have done this mod..thanks

 

I don't know if socketless hose will pass. But, it is very tough stuff. Has a single textile brade between the inside and outside sheath. Also, a teflon inner makes it ideal for fluid flow. Rated for high temp service and most fluids except nitro. I would think they may have a problem with the absence of a "screw-on" end fitting. A set of clamps would solve that problem. Once you get those fittings in the tube, they don't come out without cutting the hose. They sure are less cost than the steel brade stuff. B.

 

Pull the rails, cut the back ends off, and weld in the -AN fittings of your choice.

Then decide if you want to run the rails in series (stock) or if you need enough fuel flow to justify a parallel setup, with fuel into the back of both rails, and out the front of each rail, or with a single return off the diagonal cross-over pipe. In general terms, from 800-1000HP, you would probably want parallel flow with a single return, and over 1000HP use paralle flow with a return off each rail.

I run -6AN into the back of each rail, and a single -6AN return off the diagonal cross-over pipe. Engine is making ~800HP at the flywheel, with a BSFC of ~0.53 #/HR/HP on spray, and 78# injectors:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP04227a.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...e/DCP03319.jpg

 

Hey, Injuneer, what is that thing that looks like a pressure sensor welded to the rail in the first picture?

Any more pictures, or is there like a 'kit' you can buy to upgrade the stock fuel system?

In my adventures of car renovation (new motor, transmission, rear end, etc) I am also getting a blower for stage 2 of my car, but while the motor and drivetrain are out of the car I want to run whatever hoses, pumps and fittings I need for a 600-650 flywheel HP(ish).

I saw the sticky and it says the stock system is good up to around 400 HP. Can you just put in a in line pump and up the pressure, or should I 'do it right' and lay the pipe (no pun intended) right the first time?

I have a TIG, MIG (with spool gun), Plasma Torch and oxaceteline gas equipment so I can weld if I have to, as well as a lathe and milling machine if I need them.

More pictures! Maybe combine this and add other threads to make a "fuel rail sticky"?

 

There is a 1/8" NPT bung, with an AutoMeter fuel pressure sensor screwed into it.

I have never seen a "kit" for the LT1, nor any aftermarket rails, etc. You pretty much have to figure it all out and buy the bits and pieces.

Adding an inline pump isn't usually the best way to go, unless you are looking for a very high pressure system. You either want in in-tank pump that is good for 650 flywheel HP, dual in-tank pumps, or an in-tank pump and an outboard pump off a sump on the tank, running in parallel. With a blower, you might want to run the second pump only at a certain boost level. See the posts by "Kevin Blown 95 TA"

For 650 flywheel HP you only need a -6AN supply and a -6AN return line. You could go to an -8AN supply, but not necessary unless you see some serious HP increases in the future. I run 800 flywheel HP through -6AN lines.

As far as pictures, I've posted the ones I have in various threads. Others have done this as well. The "big boy fuel systems" thread may have quite a few pictures.

 

Some of my fuel system pics:












Mine is a lil overkill, but ill never have to mess with it again.

 

Nice setup.

But.... you have a custom aluminum tank with a sump, right? Looks nice, but maybe more than I want to do right now. I can deal with putting a second line through the hole, soldering it up and running a second line to the front.

I wonder how your Vortech T-trim compares to a D1SC from ATI. Time to do more research.

Is there any reason not to run aluminum hardline to the front? I have a bunch of 7/16 inch left over from replumbing my old diesel truck.

 

I actually ran 5/8" #10AN hard line to the front, then went to SS braided in the engine bay. Running low Z 72 lb injectors.


the Ttrim flows approx 1200 cfm, but I think more efficiently then the ATI.

I have yet to get the new system dynoed