96 rs camaro 3.8L 107k miles flood recovery cars run fine for 2 years now when u drive it the car fells as if theres NO power at all starts ok but not perfect when u turn the key no weird sounds and when u put it into drive 1st gear is fine(auto) and then once it hits 2nd the car sputters and same for 3rd takes me 3 exits on the freeway to get up to 50mph and thats only if i hold the gas pedal at aa sweet spot if i floor the gas the car bogs like crazy and slows down.

codes are as follows:
6 codes:
(2)p0301 cylinder 1 misfire
(2)p1406 manufactuer contrl auxiliary emission control (egr is clean)
p1870 manufactuer control transmission(got some help shift kit needed)
p0141 02 heater bank 1 sensor 2(got a replacement just got to put it on)


replaced so far:
spark plug only on cylinder 1
spark plug wire only on cylinder 1

still no luck

 

I think your biggest problem in getting answers is the way you are scattering multiple posts all over the forums, basically about the same problem. This is the 2nd thread you've started on this forum for the same problem, plus the two threads on "Computer Diagnostics....." and the one I moved from "General...." to "V6 Tech". If you don't get a response to a thread after a day or so, simply post "ttt" as a response, forcing it back to the top of the page. "ttt" is OK no more than once every 24 hours.

If people have all the facts in one thread, you have a better chance of getting an answer.

P1406 doesn't show up in any of my 3.8L specific codes lists, but the generic listing indicates its an EGR pintle position circuit problem. That wouldn't indicate a problem with the EGR being dirty. It may indicate the EGR is sticking open, which would certainly make the engine feel sluggish.

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

 

ok well i pull ed the egr off and it didnt hav any carbon build up it was nice and clean.
no i havnt what is the pressure when i do test it should it be at a min.

 

Again, the code is NOT indicating its a problem with the EGR valve not being clean. The pintle may not be moving correctly.

Fuel pressure:

-at idle, vacuum compensation line removed from fuel pressure regulator - 41-47psi with 43.5psi preferred

-attach the vacuum line, fuel pressure should drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum. A 6-8psi drop from the "no vacuum" condition would be normal.

-tape the gauge to the outside of the widnshield, and drive it at the speed/throttle position that causes it to stumble and lose power. Pressure should never drop below 40psi with the throttle wide open.

As far as the misfire on Cyl #1, you have addressed the ignition problems. Have you checked the injector?

 

ok thanks for that info
no i hav not got into the injector i have ran the lucus fuel treatment in my car a few times (about every other month) if i pull the injector's out how can i clean them can i just use a spray a cleaner though them?

 

Have you tried changing the fuel filter. if i remember right ive seen a cloged fuel filter cause a car to throw multiple codes. and they are about ten bux and should be done by the time the car has 100k anyway

 

ok.. i lost internet so i havnt been on here in a while so here it wat i have done since
replaced with new
spark plugs with spitfire plugs gaped .60
new spark plug wires
new coils
and it idle's alot better but still hav the engine cutting out at 3k any gear.
i also blocked off the egr and that helped with getting up to speed theres no more sputtering but i cant push the gas down anymore then a inch and then it jumps in rpms to 2.5 -3k and theres no power. im going to replace the fuel filter next.

 

Split-Fire plugs are junk.... wouldn't use them in a lawn mower engine. Are you sure you have the gap set as recommended on the label in the radiator cover? 0.060" is larger than the gap for the V8's, for example. Not sure of the V6 specs.

Not sure from the description of "it jumps in rpms to 2.5 -3k and theres no power." Are you sure the trans isn't slipping?

Have you actually checked the fuel pressure? Have you considered switching #1 injector with another cylinder, to see if the problem follows the injector?

 

Stuck EGR usually messes up idle not when your on the gas pedal

Do all this in order:
1) Check fuel pressure while ide and WOT, if ok continue
2) Unplug MAF if equipped, see how it runs
3) Then unplug 02 sensors with MAF unplugged, see how it runs
4) If this doesnt help take air cleaner out, see how it runs
5) Loosen up the exhaust before the cat converter. Yup, I was stranded once due to a clogged cat.. it clogged up in 2 miles.. Dodge Ram, exhaust was sealed so good it sounded normal just had no power 10mph is all it would do then suddenly got worse and worse. After a tow home it would only idle, then I realized it was REALLY quiet... loosened the flange on the exhaust sounded like an air compressor and all power was back.