I am thinking about doing this ltcc conversion on my 94 z28,will this work with a 94 opti?or do i need to change over to a 95 pin driven opti?also does it work with a 4l60e trans?..I found a really good deal on the harness and ltcc module..

 

The opti or transmission does not matter.

 

Ok,good..I was reading in a older post that it was not going to work..I just made the purchase..Thanks Shoe

 

Gosh, I hope I was right.

 

Works with either Opti, either trans. The optical cam position sensor in the two versions of the Optis are identical - just the connection to the cam is different. There is absolutly no reason the type of trans would affect the LTCC at all.

If in doubt, contact Bob Bailey at Bailey Engineering.

 

Thanks for the information guys..I bought the ltcc kit and just picked up a brand new set of 8 LS7 coils,brackets and wire harness for 150.00..I dont think I can use the brackets,So does anyone know anyone the makes some??Also I just need to order my wires..Any suggestions on which ones to get??Currently I have More 10mm race wires,I dont know if those are considered low resistance or not..Any more help is appreciated..BTW Fred,your car looks awesome..

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LTCC-...item27ba7e0a1e.

You shuld be good to go; the trans only matters if you were doing the 24x ignition system. I had the ltcc for a few months it worked well but I did not like the over all way my lt1 ran; mostlikely the tune, now I am doing the efi connection system so I can get a good dyno tune on the car. The Ltcc never broke down on me like my factory opti setup liked to do; you will like it, and it is not too dificult to install. I would go with the Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wires (Universal Cut-to-Fit), they are a little bit of a pain to put together; but they will fit clean and work great.

 

Henry do you know if the wires come with the correct boots?Thanks for the bracket info as well,I emailed the guy and waiting for a response back.One last thing,do I have to remove the rotor from the opti in order for eveerything to work correctly?

 

Joe at Downriver motorsport wiring on Telegraph has wired a few of these if you arent a do it yourselfer. Goodluck!

 

Everything seems pretty much plug and play,besides a few wires,which also seem pretty easy..I just need to know if the rotor needs to be removed in order for everything to fire correctly.I am a do it yourselfer..lol

 

Thanks... have you seen my coils - keeps the clutter off the top of the engine:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ne/Coils01.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/CoilsR.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/CoilsL.jpg

 

So do those wires ome with the correct boots?and Does the rotor have to be removed?

 

No you do not have to remove the rotor, but I would take the rotor out and replace it with two small lock washers and two small screws; be sure to use red locktite on the two screws. The rotor likes to fly apart at high rpms; it has happened to me quite a few times. The wires do not come with everything you need; you will need the Taylor Opti-Spark End Terminal Kit 14.99 and I would pick up the Pro-Crimping Tool, Hand-Held 10.57 also.

 

I wouldn't put the coils on the valve covers. Been there, done that. Setting valve lash is a royal PITA. I had mine mounted on a set of fuel rail covers from MBA. I ended up getting 8 L brackets, some long bolts and nuts and a piece of small diameter steel tube which I cut to make spacers. Mounted all of that to the frame rails on either side of the car and it turned out rather well. Cheap too.

As for wires, I've always run Taylors with mine and never had an issue.

 

I think I am going to mount them the way Injuneer has his..I like the fact that the engine bay will be less crowded..I have ls2/ls7 coils and mine dont have provisions to mount like Freds,back to the drawing board.