Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
07-25-2016, 09:02 PM
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Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Hello. This is my first post on this website so let me know if anything seems out of place. I bought a used 1995 z28 about a year and a half ago. I bought it as a car to work on during my free time. It seems as if I didn't know what I was getting myself into because this particular car is pretty stubborn. I didn't know anything about cars before I bought this Camaro, and have learned a lot since.
The issue I'm most worried about is a few fuel problems. First of all, I've noticed as I've started to replace failing parts, for example; Alternator, some relays and a few trim pieces, I've noticed they've all come from a junk yard. I can tell because of the colored dashes they leave on the part. I've been having some trouble with fuel pressure. (I'm assuming) The previous owner installed a custom exhaust on it, and it runs very rich. People tell me if I accelerate hard in front of them they can smell the fumes. I've done some research and realize this could be a lot of issues, so I will describe some of the others.
Over time, especially during the warm season, or when my car warms up, I notice my oil pressure gauge drop to almost no pressure when I'm at idle. Now what doesn't seem right is, when I'm at idle and the check gauges light comes on for the oil pressure, I'll feel a small backfire type of "putt" coming from underneath the car (I'm assuming the exhaust). It's very repetitive, and can also happen back to back. I'm starting to think the guy wired fuel pressure to the oil pressure gauge, but then again, I also don't know what kind of oil pressure I have. The only thing that suggests it's now a fuel pressure gauge is if I hit the throttle, the gauge goes back up, then drops down to alarming levels.
Another thing I've noticed is, there is a flap open in the back to access the fuel pump assembly. I'm suspecting, since the previous owner liked to use junkyard parts, he put on a junkyard fuel pump thats now starting to go out. What's also interesting is, the gas gauge doesn't work it, but I've heard thats a common issue in the 4th gens, I have no idea if it's related.
Now, I have not touched anything with the fuel system on the car yet, because I realize some of it can be expensive to replace, or can be quite complicated for a guy just starting out like me. I've been looking to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure myself but realized the shrader valve is almost impossible to reach. Any of you have tips on how to reach back there? I can feel the valve and the cap but to screw on the gauge would be impossible for me, even if I try and sprawl myself over the car.
Some other issues I've started to notice is, when I start the engine up at random times, it can take a good 5-8 seconds for the camaro to turn over, even then it is very weak and I have to give it gas. The rpm's dont go up like they usually do after startup except on the very first startup on a cold engine. Some people say it could be a fuel pressure regulator. Thoughts? Recently the camaro has started to almost die right after starting it. The rpm's will go down to 300-500 and it sounds like it will die, but if I give it gas, it comes right back up and stabilizes. I've done some testing on the injectors as well, and they all seem to be firing off in rythym and they all are working (screwdriver to the ear trick). The downside to all this is, the car sometimes throws codes randomly while driving. It could be at the end of my driveway, it could be getting back from a 3 hours trip, or a drive to Wendy's. I have no idea how to read codes on it. I saw something about an obd 1.5 and tried the paperclip trip to the connector but I don't think I have the right pins for the test. Also, I cannot hear the fuel pump prime after turning the key to accessory to even see if it works because of the loud fan on it. Anyone have an idea?
I know this may seem like a wall of text, which it is. But I feel this is the only way to get the best description to you guys instead of randomly hopping on to check comments and comment about another issue I have. What should my first course of action be? I've tried to get a hold of the nearest mechanics to me, and most say they don't have much experience on obd1 systems.... which doesn't even make sense. My work schedule during our busy season in the summer prevents me from doing long term projects on it for now.
Let me know if you guys need any more information, because I'm still learning about this car, and may be wrong on a lot of things in this post, but go ahead and correct me.
The issue I'm most worried about is a few fuel problems. First of all, I've noticed as I've started to replace failing parts, for example; Alternator, some relays and a few trim pieces, I've noticed they've all come from a junk yard. I can tell because of the colored dashes they leave on the part. I've been having some trouble with fuel pressure. (I'm assuming) The previous owner installed a custom exhaust on it, and it runs very rich. People tell me if I accelerate hard in front of them they can smell the fumes. I've done some research and realize this could be a lot of issues, so I will describe some of the others.
Over time, especially during the warm season, or when my car warms up, I notice my oil pressure gauge drop to almost no pressure when I'm at idle. Now what doesn't seem right is, when I'm at idle and the check gauges light comes on for the oil pressure, I'll feel a small backfire type of "putt" coming from underneath the car (I'm assuming the exhaust). It's very repetitive, and can also happen back to back. I'm starting to think the guy wired fuel pressure to the oil pressure gauge, but then again, I also don't know what kind of oil pressure I have. The only thing that suggests it's now a fuel pressure gauge is if I hit the throttle, the gauge goes back up, then drops down to alarming levels.
Another thing I've noticed is, there is a flap open in the back to access the fuel pump assembly. I'm suspecting, since the previous owner liked to use junkyard parts, he put on a junkyard fuel pump thats now starting to go out. What's also interesting is, the gas gauge doesn't work it, but I've heard thats a common issue in the 4th gens, I have no idea if it's related.
Now, I have not touched anything with the fuel system on the car yet, because I realize some of it can be expensive to replace, or can be quite complicated for a guy just starting out like me. I've been looking to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure myself but realized the shrader valve is almost impossible to reach. Any of you have tips on how to reach back there? I can feel the valve and the cap but to screw on the gauge would be impossible for me, even if I try and sprawl myself over the car.
Some other issues I've started to notice is, when I start the engine up at random times, it can take a good 5-8 seconds for the camaro to turn over, even then it is very weak and I have to give it gas. The rpm's dont go up like they usually do after startup except on the very first startup on a cold engine. Some people say it could be a fuel pressure regulator. Thoughts? Recently the camaro has started to almost die right after starting it. The rpm's will go down to 300-500 and it sounds like it will die, but if I give it gas, it comes right back up and stabilizes. I've done some testing on the injectors as well, and they all seem to be firing off in rythym and they all are working (screwdriver to the ear trick). The downside to all this is, the car sometimes throws codes randomly while driving. It could be at the end of my driveway, it could be getting back from a 3 hours trip, or a drive to Wendy's. I have no idea how to read codes on it. I saw something about an obd 1.5 and tried the paperclip trip to the connector but I don't think I have the right pins for the test. Also, I cannot hear the fuel pump prime after turning the key to accessory to even see if it works because of the loud fan on it. Anyone have an idea?
I know this may seem like a wall of text, which it is. But I feel this is the only way to get the best description to you guys instead of randomly hopping on to check comments and comment about another issue I have. What should my first course of action be? I've tried to get a hold of the nearest mechanics to me, and most say they don't have much experience on obd1 systems.... which doesn't even make sense. My work schedule during our busy season in the summer prevents me from doing long term projects on it for now.
Let me know if you guys need any more information, because I'm still learning about this car, and may be wrong on a lot of things in this post, but go ahead and correct me.
Last edited by Allanggg2; 07-25-2016 at 09:05 PM.
07-25-2016, 10:15 PM
#2
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Huge post, lots of problems. I can give you what I feel is useful info on most of them. As can others. But right now I'm on an iPad, and I'm really going to have to be on my PC with a keyboard and a mouse.
Basic info. Your 95 computer is OBD-1. OBD-1.5 was used on the Corvette LT1, but never on the Camaro/Firebird. You can't flash the codes by shorting the DLC pins. The last year that worked was 1993. You need an OBD-1 scanner with a 12-pin->16-pin DLC adapter, or you need to jumper the wires as shown on shbox.com (go there and look at everything - the best source of LT1 info on the Internet).
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
There are some dual OBD-2/OBD-1 scanners, but not all of them work. Some of them require an independent 12V power supply. And avoid the Innova scanners. They have a corrupt code database for the LT1.
In any case, you have to read the codes.
Second, you have to measure the fuel pressure. I've managed to attach my fuel pressure test gauge many times with no problems. It isn't as hard as you make it out to be. I'll give the fuel pressure specs in the next post.
Your oil pressure gauge sounds like it's working normally. Oil pressure normally varies with temperature (low temp = high pressure; high temp = low pressure), and engine RPM. Rev the engine, pressure climbs. Drop to idle and pressure drops. The "CHECK GAGES" light comes on when the oil pressure drops below 6 PSI. That's very low. Fuel pressure on the other hand will be fairly steady, varying primarily with engine vacuum, which varies with throttle movement. With no vacuum, fuel pressure should remain at 43.5 PSI (GM specs accept 41-47 PSI). When there is vacuum, pressure can drop into the mid- to low- 30's.
You either have the wrong oil in the engine, the engine is badly overheating, or your bearings are shot.
Basic info. Your 95 computer is OBD-1. OBD-1.5 was used on the Corvette LT1, but never on the Camaro/Firebird. You can't flash the codes by shorting the DLC pins. The last year that worked was 1993. You need an OBD-1 scanner with a 12-pin->16-pin DLC adapter, or you need to jumper the wires as shown on shbox.com (go there and look at everything - the best source of LT1 info on the Internet).
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
There are some dual OBD-2/OBD-1 scanners, but not all of them work. Some of them require an independent 12V power supply. And avoid the Innova scanners. They have a corrupt code database for the LT1.
In any case, you have to read the codes.
Second, you have to measure the fuel pressure. I've managed to attach my fuel pressure test gauge many times with no problems. It isn't as hard as you make it out to be. I'll give the fuel pressure specs in the next post.
Your oil pressure gauge sounds like it's working normally. Oil pressure normally varies with temperature (low temp = high pressure; high temp = low pressure), and engine RPM. Rev the engine, pressure climbs. Drop to idle and pressure drops. The "CHECK GAGES" light comes on when the oil pressure drops below 6 PSI. That's very low. Fuel pressure on the other hand will be fairly steady, varying primarily with engine vacuum, which varies with throttle movement. With no vacuum, fuel pressure should remain at 43.5 PSI (GM specs accept 41-47 PSI). When there is vacuum, pressure can drop into the mid- to low- 30's.
You either have the wrong oil in the engine, the engine is badly overheating, or your bearings are shot.
07-25-2016, 10:41 PM
#3
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Posts: 15
Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Does the car store the codes? Because the check engine light comes on rarely and randomly.
Do I need any adapters for the valve on the LT1? I've heard of some needing an adapter. I will start by checking fuel pressure, and when I do, I will post the #s on here.
My low coolant light occasionally comes on but I know I have plenty of coolant. New radiator? I've opened the hood after driving for a while and notice its warmer than usual. After reading shbox, I realize I may have a coolant leak, I've noticed a puddle on the right front right under battery after the car sits. And something about the pcm may be sending extra fuel and causing my hard starts and rich mix. I have noticed the temp gauge is pretty low all the time, like around 25% at max. Will have to look into it.
I still have my winter oil in, 5w-30. Will thicker oil make that much of a difference or are you referring to brands?
Thank you for the reply!
Do I need any adapters for the valve on the LT1? I've heard of some needing an adapter. I will start by checking fuel pressure, and when I do, I will post the #s on here.
My low coolant light occasionally comes on but I know I have plenty of coolant. New radiator? I've opened the hood after driving for a while and notice its warmer than usual. After reading shbox, I realize I may have a coolant leak, I've noticed a puddle on the right front right under battery after the car sits. And something about the pcm may be sending extra fuel and causing my hard starts and rich mix. I have noticed the temp gauge is pretty low all the time, like around 25% at max. Will have to look into it.
I still have my winter oil in, 5w-30. Will thicker oil make that much of a difference or are you referring to brands?
Thank you for the reply!
Last edited by Allanggg2; 07-25-2016 at 11:07 PM.
07-26-2016, 01:49 PM
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
The PCM stores trouble codes. They will clear if power to the PCM is cut by disconnecting the battery or pulling the PCM BAT fuse. The stored codes will self-clear after a fairly large number of drive cycles, if the same problem does not recur.
The coolant reservoir is under the battery. The top of the reservoir is the base the battery sits on.
There are two coolant temp sensors. One single-wire sensor in the driver side head, between cyls #1 and #3. That is only for the dash gauge, does not affect how the engine runs. There is a two-wire sensor mounted in the water pump housing. That feeds the PCM. If that sensor is sending an incorrect low temperature, the PCM will be adding fuel the engine doesn't need, basically a rich mixture for cold start.
The 1/4 point on the dash gauge is ~185*F. Someone may have installed a 160* t'stat, a popular modification, coupled with lowering the fan on/off temps. Stock t'stat is 180*.
The low coolant sensor is not particularly reliable. It only connects to the light on the dash via a latching relay. But you need to check the coolant level. It should be right to the top of the radiator fill neck at all times. The LT1 has a unique reverse-flow cooling system, and air in the system can cause overheating. Shoebox has the fill/air bleed precedure.
The Scrader fuel test port is -3AN I believe. Had no trouble finding a test gauge/hose with that connection.
5W-30 is the recommended oil. Something heavier may increase pressure, but that's just a band-aid.
The coolant reservoir is under the battery. The top of the reservoir is the base the battery sits on.
There are two coolant temp sensors. One single-wire sensor in the driver side head, between cyls #1 and #3. That is only for the dash gauge, does not affect how the engine runs. There is a two-wire sensor mounted in the water pump housing. That feeds the PCM. If that sensor is sending an incorrect low temperature, the PCM will be adding fuel the engine doesn't need, basically a rich mixture for cold start.
The 1/4 point on the dash gauge is ~185*F. Someone may have installed a 160* t'stat, a popular modification, coupled with lowering the fan on/off temps. Stock t'stat is 180*.
The low coolant sensor is not particularly reliable. It only connects to the light on the dash via a latching relay. But you need to check the coolant level. It should be right to the top of the radiator fill neck at all times. The LT1 has a unique reverse-flow cooling system, and air in the system can cause overheating. Shoebox has the fill/air bleed precedure.
The Scrader fuel test port is -3AN I believe. Had no trouble finding a test gauge/hose with that connection.
5W-30 is the recommended oil. Something heavier may increase pressure, but that's just a band-aid.
07-26-2016, 10:04 PM
#5
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
So I went out today after work and rented out a fuel pressure gauge for now to use on the camaro. Brought it home with the little daylight I had left and finally got the hose on the shrader valve. Started up the car and the gauge would not budge. I was using a GM adapter that the kit provided and it fit perfectly, but the gauge didnt move. I was able to start the car, so I'm getting fuel pressure of some kind. I'm posting some pictures of the gauge and connection/kit. Pardon the dark pictures, it ended getting dark before I got home from work. None of these adapters had markings on them to indicate what a -3AM was supposed to be. I figured it was the one that was already on the gauge because it fit perfectly.
The top of the shrader valve peeking out. It had no cap on it when I first looked at it.
Do any of these adapters look like they might fit besides the GM one?
The GM adapter that was provided on the top.
The whole connection to the shrader valve with a 90 degree angle connector.
The top of the shrader valve peeking out. It had no cap on it when I first looked at it.
Do any of these adapters look like they might fit besides the GM one?
The GM adapter that was provided on the top.
The whole connection to the shrader valve with a 90 degree angle connector.
Last edited by Allanggg2; 07-26-2016 at 10:12 PM.
07-28-2016, 10:54 AM
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Photos do not show up, and would not open by clicking on them. I accessed the imgur addresses using the "edit" button (only a moderator can do that) and opened them. They really don't show anything I can compare to my fuel pressure test gauge.
Did you find an adapter that would screw cleanly onto the threads of the Schrader valve? If so, does the adapter have a rubber seal ring that will press against the top surface of the Schrader valve? Does the adapter have a pin dead center, that will depress the valve core in the Schrader valve, allowing it to read the pressure?
If it meets those requirements, you just didn't get it screwed down tight enough for the pin to open the core. Be careful though because it's very easy to break the Valve off the fuel line.
If you get a reading, watch the gauge as someone turns the key to run (not start). The pump will prime for two seconds and shut off. The pressure should be at least 40 psi. And, the pressure should not drop rapidly when the pump shuts off. I'll check the factory spec, but I think it's no more than 5 psi DROP in 10 minutes.
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and plug the end of the line to prevent a vacuum leak. Start the engine. Pressure should be 43.5 psi. GM spec accepts anything in the range of 41-47 psi.
Reconnect the vacuum line. Pressure should drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum, about 8-10 psi DROP from the "no vacuum" pressure, with a stock cam. Less drop with a more aggressive cam.
Tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield. Observe fuel pressure as you drive. Pressure will climb as you open the throttle, and drop when you close the throttle. Take the engine up above 5,000 rpm at wide open throttle. Pressure should not drop below 40 psi.
Did you find an adapter that would screw cleanly onto the threads of the Schrader valve? If so, does the adapter have a rubber seal ring that will press against the top surface of the Schrader valve? Does the adapter have a pin dead center, that will depress the valve core in the Schrader valve, allowing it to read the pressure?
If it meets those requirements, you just didn't get it screwed down tight enough for the pin to open the core. Be careful though because it's very easy to break the Valve off the fuel line.
If you get a reading, watch the gauge as someone turns the key to run (not start). The pump will prime for two seconds and shut off. The pressure should be at least 40 psi. And, the pressure should not drop rapidly when the pump shuts off. I'll check the factory spec, but I think it's no more than 5 psi DROP in 10 minutes.
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and plug the end of the line to prevent a vacuum leak. Start the engine. Pressure should be 43.5 psi. GM spec accepts anything in the range of 41-47 psi.
Reconnect the vacuum line. Pressure should drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum, about 8-10 psi DROP from the "no vacuum" pressure, with a stock cam. Less drop with a more aggressive cam.
Tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield. Observe fuel pressure as you drive. Pressure will climb as you open the throttle, and drop when you close the throttle. Take the engine up above 5,000 rpm at wide open throttle. Pressure should not drop below 40 psi.
07-28-2016, 10:27 PM
#7
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Posts: 15
Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Photos do not show up, and would not open by clicking on them. I accessed the imgur addresses using the "edit" button (only a moderator can do that) and opened them. They really don't show anything I can compare to my fuel pressure test gauge.
Did you find an adapter that would screw cleanly onto the threads of the Schrader valve? If so, does the adapter have a rubber seal ring that will press against the top surface of the Schrader valve? Does the adapter have a pin dead center, that will depress the valve core in the Schrader valve, allowing it to read the pressure?
If it meets those requirements, you just didn't get it screwed down tight enough for the pin to open the core. Be careful though because it's very easy to break the Valve off the fuel line.
If you get a reading, watch the gauge as someone turns the key to run (not start). The pump will prime for two seconds and shut off. The pressure should be at least 40 psi. And, the pressure should not drop rapidly when the pump shuts off. I'll check the factory spec, but I think it's no more than 5 psi DROP in 10 minutes.
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and plug the end of the line to prevent a vacuum leak. Start the engine. Pressure should be 43.5 psi. GM spec accepts anything in the range of 41-47 psi.
Reconnect the vacuum line. Pressure should drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum, about 8-10 psi DROP from the "no vacuum" pressure, with a stock cam. Less drop with a more aggressive cam.
Tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield. Observe fuel pressure as you drive. Pressure will climb as you open the throttle, and drop when you close the throttle. Take the engine up above 5,000 rpm at wide open throttle. Pressure should not drop below 40 psi.
Did you find an adapter that would screw cleanly onto the threads of the Schrader valve? If so, does the adapter have a rubber seal ring that will press against the top surface of the Schrader valve? Does the adapter have a pin dead center, that will depress the valve core in the Schrader valve, allowing it to read the pressure?
If it meets those requirements, you just didn't get it screwed down tight enough for the pin to open the core. Be careful though because it's very easy to break the Valve off the fuel line.
If you get a reading, watch the gauge as someone turns the key to run (not start). The pump will prime for two seconds and shut off. The pressure should be at least 40 psi. And, the pressure should not drop rapidly when the pump shuts off. I'll check the factory spec, but I think it's no more than 5 psi DROP in 10 minutes.
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and plug the end of the line to prevent a vacuum leak. Start the engine. Pressure should be 43.5 psi. GM spec accepts anything in the range of 41-47 psi.
Reconnect the vacuum line. Pressure should drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum, about 8-10 psi DROP from the "no vacuum" pressure, with a stock cam. Less drop with a more aggressive cam.
Tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield. Observe fuel pressure as you drive. Pressure will climb as you open the throttle, and drop when you close the throttle. Take the engine up above 5,000 rpm at wide open throttle. Pressure should not drop below 40 psi.
I ended up figuring out that the adapter that was on the gauge did not have a center piece to push the pin in on the schrader valve. I went and swapped it with another set at Autozone. This gauge did have a center piece and rubber band around the middle. I hooked it up with no problem. Felt some gas starting to squirt out on to my rags right below. I knew I had pressure, but for some reason, the gauge just was not giving me any readings at all. I don't think I had the adapter on wrong, I twisted till it felt it went on without any kinks or bumps. Really don't know what to do at this point. I will try again tomorrow after the car sits for a bit and is cold. Maybe I'm still having trouble getting it on straight. I'm trying to screw the adapter on around a wiring harness and it's annoying but doable. When u start screwing it you can hear it fizzing and releasing pressure. Any ideas?
08-09-2016, 05:15 PM
#8
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Update: Ive recently got my hands on a 12 pin to 16 pin connector cable and was looking at the shbox pichttp://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
My question is, what are those yellow wires with the pink and blue ends used to adapt the pins?
My question is, what are those yellow wires with the pink and blue ends used to adapt the pins?
08-09-2016, 08:47 PM
#9
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
What are you doing with the 12pin-to-16pin cable? Do you have a scanner of some type? The photo you linked has to do with adapting a scanner with a 12-pin connector to a 95 with 16 pins. For that car, only 2 pins are required.
Last edited by GaryDoug; 08-09-2016 at 08:51 PM.
08-10-2016, 03:06 PM
#10
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
I bought an obd1 code reader but I guess it doesn't match the adapter cable I got with it. So I need to adapt the cable from the 16 pin connector to the cable, then attach an obd2 scanner to the other end of the 12-16 pin connector
08-10-2016, 04:26 PM
#11
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
Like Fred told you, your car is OBD1. An OBD2 scanner won't work. If the OBD1 code reader was less than $70, it won't work either. What OBD1 code reader did you get? There are only a few that do work for a 94/95 LT1 and all will need a cable to fit the 95 connector.
08-10-2016, 10:01 PM
#12
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
It was an Innova GM code reader that doesn't even have the right hook ups. I for some reason thought that if you use the 12-16 pin connector cable and adapt with the 2 wires an obd2 scanner will read the codes. What Obd1 scanner do you suggest? Should I just crack and buy a dual code reader like an Actron cp9145? Although I don't know if I want to spend 300 bucks on that. I don't have any code readers of my own except this junk one I got a few days ago. I now also realize avoid Innova readers...
08-10-2016, 10:11 PM
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
If you have a laptop pc and about $60 for a cable, you can get a full feature scan utility specially written for the 94/95 cars. I wrote it, called scan9495. It can do more than just about any handheld tool except a Tech 2.
If no laptop or you don't feel comfortable with it, get a CP9185 from Amazon (See the "other sellers on Amazon" sidebar for Unbeatable Sales) for about $71 and the CP9127 cable and power supply for about $30 from Autozone (may be special order).
https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9185.../dp/B000T8UG52
Actron/GM OBD I ALDL cable kit CP9127- Read1Reviews onActron #CP9127
Not as many features or datalogging, but it will read the codes and live engine data.
If no laptop or you don't feel comfortable with it, get a CP9185 from Amazon (See the "other sellers on Amazon" sidebar for Unbeatable Sales) for about $71 and the CP9127 cable and power supply for about $30 from Autozone (may be special order).
https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9185.../dp/B000T8UG52
Actron/GM OBD I ALDL cable kit CP9127- Read1Reviews onActron #CP9127
Not as many features or datalogging, but it will read the codes and live engine data.
Last edited by GaryDoug; 08-10-2016 at 10:16 PM.
08-10-2016, 10:20 PM
#14
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Re: Lots of Fuel issues Stock 95 LT1
I unfortunately do not have a laptop, and my roommate probably wouldn't be ok with me downloading stuff on his laptop. Looking at the scanner and cable, how is that going to work? Does the 16 pin end of the cable go into the reader, then I adapt using the 2 wires, like shbox.com shows? My camaro doesn't have the obd1 connection.