i have a 93 z28 camaro with a 5.7l v8 in it. while i was driving the other night it felt like shutting off on me while i was doing 40 in 3rd gear at about 3000rpm. both the check engine light and check gauges light popped on and i pulled over. after taking a look at the engine i didnt see anything unusual and no weird smells from it so i fired it back up and it was fine. once i reved it to 3000 again it cut out. got it flat bedded home and now im stumped. i changed the fuel filter, ignition coil, and got a brand new battery. there is still no spark at the plugs but im reading some kind of voltage at the new ignition coil. my guess is the distibutor is the problem but im not to positive. i dont wanna go out and spend the 250 on a new distributor when its just a bad wire....... thanks for any help.

 

What trouble code(s) do you have (or are you ignoring the fact that the light came on)?

 

i dont have a diagnostic computer to get it... i tryed 3 friends that have them and its like pulling teeth to get them to come over and test it for me.

 

The paperclip should work on a '93.

 

As noted, you don't need a scanner to read the codes on your 93. Shoebox has a page that tells you how:

http://shbox.com/1/dlc2.jpg

 

i pulled off my cap and rotor and everything looks fine. still cant get my hands on a computer to diagnose it but i found you can do that through the check engine light on these?? ive tried it 3 times and all i get is the same 12 code..... am i doing somthing wrong or is there no code....

 

Did you read the link I posted.... it answers your questions.

 

If you get 12 repeatedly and nothing else, no other code is stored in the computer. If you have disconnected the battery since the problem occurred, then the code(s) will be erased.

 

Sounds kinda like the issue I've been having with my car off and on for the last 3 months.. Turned out to be a bad Ignition Control Module.. I even took it into Autozone and tested it like 15 times, but it turns out it would only cut out under high load and high temperatures..

Hope that helps..

 

i did read all of shoebox's solution but i still get the 12 code... now that you say about the battery i did have to change it half way through this prosses.... is there n e way to get the code back up on the computer so i can read it??? i thought it was the ICM to but if i read power off the brand new coil then i figured im losing the spark between the disrtibutor and the plugs... the icm tells the coil to send out a spark then the coil sends the right amount of power to the distributor right?

 

Once you pull the power off the PCM, the stored codes are lost in OBD-I.

 

update---- i changed the ignition coil and module.... brand new optispark acdelco distributor, cap, and rotor, new water pump and thermostat.... i tried to start it and it backfired twice and now just cranks without starting..... i invested over 800 dollars into this car for [edit] nothing to happen but 2 pops from my engine.... i need help... any segestions please

 

Did you index the opti correctly? Did you check the opti harness for any problems? You say the cap and rotor is AC-Delco, but is the opti? A lot of reman optis are junk.

 

i got it to work... it was the module i had the crankshaft in the wrong position.... i think its at top dead center now but is there another way to tell besides taking out the spark plug.... the piston is about a half and inch from the hole of the spark plug... would that be TDC or does it gotta go more... thank for all the help guys..

 

Using the piston to the top method the only way to tell if #1 is tdc is see if both valves are shut (closed). If the piston is up and the exhaust valve is compressed then you need to take it around one more cycle.