I understand the idea behind a cryogenic fuel block but truthfully if the setup is being done properly and the return line is flowing as well as it needs to then there shouldn't be any need for one since the systm would be circulating well enough that you wouldn't have enough heat soak to warrant one.

 

not if the car stays in 95 + degree weather down here......the car will already be heat soaked before i ever turn the system on....

anyone...

 

Dual -8 feeds y-block is behind the fender well cover and single -6 return all the way back to the tank w/ aeromotive check valve at back of the regulator. 2 filters in the feed and 1 filter on the return. Fuel lab regulator and filters. Not a cheap setup but more than capable of 1Krwhp. I'm running 72lb RC injectors as well.

http://fbodyeurope.org/Gallery/main....serialNumber=3

http://fbodyeurope.org/Gallery/main....geViewsIndex=1

 

anyting else on the fuel block i mentioned....

 

bringing it back once more i had one more question does it matter where you plumb the regulator weather its plumbed out the back of the rail or front of the rail?€

all of the set-ups i see here are plumbed going to the front of the rails but feeding from the rear can i feed it to the front of the rails with the regulator taking the 2 6an exits off the back off the rails into the AFPR

this would sorta be a problem as i dont see any AN reducers or busings to use on the AFPR since it has a 1/2 port on the AFPR i dont think they make a fitting from 10an to 6an....

some my main ? is can i plumb the AFPR at the back and feed to the front of the rails?i am just now getting all fittings needed to finish up the fuel system up on the manifold. going to be at least another $150

 

um....speaking of fuel and all that...how about that tail lamp panel i paid for last month and never got yet? i guess your just too busy to respond to my private messages....but kinda funny you wernt to busy to go the bank and cash the money order i sent...hmmmm..... wtf man?

 

Isn't there a regulator with ports for feed from tank, feed to rails, and a return port to the tank? Seems like the easiest solution is feed the reg from the tank, split it's output to the two rails, and let the regulator bleed off the excess pressure back to the tank.

What's wrong with this idea?

 

you need the regulator on the return side so it can keep even pressure in the rails if you have it before the rails your just going to regulate the pressure between the tank and regulator not in the rails.

 

There are "bypass" style regulators that control the pressure AFTER the regulator. You end up with a "dead end" fuel rail, and pressure control becomes a bit erratic with very high HP setups. Every F-Body LS1 engine has this type of fuel system. The regulator is in the tank. Many high HP LS1 systems convert to the full recirculation rails, with the pressure regulator after the rails, because it provide a much more uniform pressure in the system.

 

THE FUEL LINES AND REGULATOR SETUP SHOULD BE OK. BUT IF YOUR GOING TO MAKE THAT KIND OF POWER WITH A BLOWER YOU WILL NEED A BIGGER PUMP WE ARE RUNING THE SAME SETUP YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. BUT WE ARE USEING THE ELIMANATOR PUMP. THIS CAR MADE 572RWHP AND WENT 9.90 @ 139 WITH TH400 AND A 9" AT 12.5 PSI (VORTECH T TRIM) ALSO YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST 85 LBS/HR TO SUPPORT 700 RWHP. AND IF YOU PLAN ON DRIVING IT ON THE STREET YOU MIGHT WANT TO GET A PUMP CONTROLER. PS WITH THIS SETUP WE WERE RUNING THE INJECTORS AT ALMOST 90%DC

 

the car is not going to see street for more then 30mons which is what AEromotive says when you do use longer then that time then you will need a controller plus the eliminator pump needs to have a controller no matter what. this car isnt going o see more then 700-800 rwhp FOR NOW..

 

well had to bring up this thread once more as i have more questions i finally connected all the electrical for the pump in search of leaks i only had one up at one of the welds on the fuel rails but i will be getting it repaired and sealed tomorrow. my question is that when running the fuel rails in PARRALLEL will it hold fuel pressure as when it was ran in series from factory....also i tried powering up the a1000 pump with the power wire that feeds the factory fuel pump and it worked but wasnt pumping fuel pressure like when it was stock you would just turn the key and it would hold fuel pressure any ideas here? i have decided to run a seperate relay and wiring for the a1000 my questions are how large of a relay do i use for the pump is a 30amp relay allright and what guage wiring should i use, i was thinking of using the power wire to the factory pump as my 12v switched source then running a wire from the battery to the relay which would be my 12v constant source and then eithe using the factory ground wire that goes to the factory pump or tapping a ground into the chassis from the relay would this be smart the only thing i see is that the 12v switched power source will also have a relay and fuse i am thinking that this shouldnt be a problem wiring it up the way i stated above? if anyone could help me out on this it would be greatfully apprecaited.

also where are you turbo guys setting FP i set it a factory setting at 42psi with line on as this is what i was told to do.

 

For the first question it will work the same as series as long as you tee the return lines together before the regulator so that your regulating both returns.
For the power to the pump, the way you plan is excatly the method that Racetronix uses with their hot wire kit. 30 amp regulator and 10 gauge wire IIRC.

 

i have my setup just like shown in the above post on the intake manifold as shown in lethal93ta's post it just didnt hold pressure not even a little it had small leak on one of the welds on one of the fuel rails was sweating some fuel but will that drop fuel pressure right after i disconnect power...and there are no other leaks on the fuel system how long are you guys holding fuel pressure for after you turn off the car when i say you guys i mean the people running big boy fuel systems.

 

anyone???????