I've never heard of the blade stop screw moving on its own. It shouldn't cause a problem, until it held the blades so far open that it prevented the IAC motor from controlling the idle. You may have had it "dialed in perfectly".... but have a new problem with the IAC motor. Shoebox has a guide to checking the resistance of the motor windings.

 

hmm...ok, definitely worth checking into it further...i will do that in the next day or so

 

last night i turned the throttle body stop screw out a little more to open the blades, maybe 1/2 turn total, and the car idles and runs much better now, however, it doesnt seem to be as smooth as it was before. there is no problem with it bogging down or stalling now, but i feel like it wasnt the whole issue, and that something else is affecting the smoothness of the engine running...

 

I am having a similar problem. my car won't cold start. it just keeps cranking.
It starts fine when the temperature goes up. Like Khojo said, it's my daily driver and I need to get to work. I was thinking it might be a leak in my throttlebody? Any suggestions?

 

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? If it isn't telling the computer the engine is cold, the computer can't set the very rich A/F ratio required to start a very cold engine.

 

I apologize for sounding slow, but how might I check this? Shobox's guide? Where is this guide... Like I said, I apologize. Do I need to run a siagnostic on the car's computer?