Heres my latest try at this. I rebuilt the sending unit with two 3/8 supply lines and a 3/8 line for return too. I'm going to run the run -6 teflon lines to check valves and a tee, then -8 to the filter and up front, then tee back into the -8 fuel rail fittings. Then -6 off the front of the fuel rails to the regulator and back to the tank with a -8 teflon line. One pump is going to be the primary, and the other will come on with throttle position. I've eliminated the yellow connector in the top of the sender and used spliced 12 ga wires to the pump wires, which appear to be 14 or 16. I have two interchangeable weathertight connectors to switch off the pumps for primary/secondary which I might do every year or so. My biggest worry is getting this thing through the hole in the tank, .

 

Looks good. I was thinking of running two stock fuel filters(for easy parts replacement and cost) in parallel and buying another set of stock fuel lines from the tank to the filters. Then T-ing into the metal line that runs on the bottom of the car. The rest of the lines would still be stock.

 

Thats pretty cool man.
Do you remember taking me for a spin in your car?
Kory

 

Did I? That must be a while back - Sorry I've forgotten. When and where was it?

 

That might work, but are you doing it because the stock filter is restrictive? Are you going out of the tank with two lines also?

 

looks good kevin.

Have pics of the check valve and where to find that?

I would like to do something similar to a tank in the back of my truck I tow my race car with.....then I wouldn't have to stop

 

Yes I would go out of the tank with two lines. Thought about using one of the vent lines. 2 filters would make the volume of fuel move faster.

BTW how did you go out of the tank with your lines. Do you still have a vent?

 

Here's the Earl's -6 one I'm getting from Summit, but you can get -8 or -10 if you need to also and I think therre are other brands as well.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku

 

Yeah - you need a vent - that line without a AN adapter is the one going to the vent. What I'll leave out is the charcoal canister fitting. The other three lines (all 3/8) are 2 pump lines and 1 return. Basically, I got a 3/8 steel line at the automotive store, cut, desoldered, and drilled out the old lines from the sender plate, and bent and soldered in some new lines. I did this on a sender I bought from a guy on this BB so I didnt have to mangle my stock one. I also made little holders for the pumps out of a slice of steel tubing that was roughly the same diameter, so they aren't just hanging there attached with hose clamps. With what I learned from doing this one, I could make an even better one next time, but I think this one should work well enough.

 

I did the same mod very similar. Except, made my bulkhead plate from 1/8" steel plate. Looks like you used socketless hose. I did the same. Ran both 3/8" (-6an) hose lines to a "Y" block mounted @ the old filter area on the rear pan. Then ran a -8an alum line to an Aeromotive filter in the motor compartment. 3/8" fuel return line. I got all the vents and electrical thru the custom bulhead plate. My pumps are mounted vertical and I modified the original stock pump swing arm bracket. It's a tight fit for assembly but will make it. Nce work. B. (97ss 383 - D1)

 

Looks great Kevin, well thought out and excellent workmanship.... something that need to go in the FAQ for "big boy fuel systems"......

 

I agree, the craftsmanship and quality look very nice and weel thought out/designed.

Good job

 

Thanks a lot for the compliments - I'll get it in this April and take some more pics and try to document it a little bit. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

How is that rubber hose gonna hold up when submerged in gasoline? Doesn't it decay rapidly in gas?

 

No - the SAE J30R10 fuel line is made just for that purpose - any other rubber hose will deteriorate in the tank.