On shobox's site I found this test but this is the coil for pre1996 cars. For a 1996 car the coil looks like this . I tested my coil and found that I have no continuity from any of the three prongs on the plug to the coil wire connector. How should the 1996 and 1997 coils be tested?

 

I would think you should see resistance from A or B to the coil tower. Are you having a problem?

 

The problem is the car just runs bad. The Idle is rough and when I take off normal it has a slight miss, then at wot it has a really bad miss and backfire. I have changed every ignition part the wires, the plugs, the opti and I had the ICM tested; but the car runs the same. I did not change the coil because I thought the car would not run with a bad coil; but I do not have resistance to the coil tower. Is it possible the coil is weak?

 

no continuity=open windings. you would have no spark if any winding were open. both primary and secondary windings. if the coil is functional, even partially, make sure the meter probes are touching clean metal within the sockets.

 

I had my meeter set up wrong I now have resistance from all prongs to the coil tower. The car still runs really funny. I took it out today and when I first took off it did not lope a lot and the idle was smoother. Then I stopped to get gas and when I started the car the car had a lot more lope and almost died when I put it in gear, the idle was a little rough. So I decided to go wot a couple of times. First time there was a miss at 5000rpms but the car pushed through it, second time it missed at 5000rpms again and pushed through it. The third time the car had almost no miss at all at wot. The miss is not consistent.

 

I'm having the same problem but at dfferent rpm range. The car does push through it but still think it's the coil for me just waiting for others to chime in. Whats the best, most dependable coil to buy? Money is not an issue. Dependability and consistentsy is what i need.

 

I had a problem with the wire inside of the black coil connector the wires inside were overheated some were broke,it passed the wiggle test and volt test but it could not handle the amps needed. my car had a low rpm miss & surging idle,then it started to breakup at 5200 rpm.

 

What was the fix you used meanss?

 

I have the OBD1 coil with the grey and black coil connectors.I just got a new connector with wire. to test it just run a power wire to the coil

 

uh What? I have an OBD1 everything.