Is it worth it to get a tubular K-member?
Is it worth it to get a tubular K-member?
Are the benefits really worth it while the engine is out of the car? I do not need the extra room for fitment, so it would purely be for weight/handling... all though I am not sure how much it helps the latter.
i am getting one for clearance. Weight wise i think it knocks off like 40 or so lbs. If you dont need it for clearance, and you need the money for something else, go for it. Otherwise, weight off the front end never hurts
Yeah the weight savings seems fun. Sadly the only real reason i want it is for a ricer reason... its pretty. i consdered going all tubular UMI up front, a arms, k member and my stb
this time around I am getting one, but mine will be for a pinto manual rack.
Loose the power steering, AC, smog, everything but alternator, and get allt ubular stuff, it makes it fun with high-stall launches N/A, i cant even imagine in boost. Wheels up for sure if you hook
Loose the power steering, AC, smog, everything but alternator, and get allt ubular stuff, it makes it fun with high-stall launches N/A, i cant even imagine in boost. Wheels up for sure if you hook
I went with entirely tubular front suspension. It saved a GOOD chunk of weight. Once you add the turbo+intercooler+piping though, you gain some (or all of it) back.
Also your K member is there to protect the engine as much as hold it in place. Not that we *want* to go offroading in our cars, but if you go off pavement it'll be more devastating. Just something to think about.
Also your K member is there to protect the engine as much as hold it in place. Not that we *want* to go offroading in our cars, but if you go off pavement it'll be more devastating. Just something to think about.
No.
unless you need the clearance or you have money to burn.
in my case, typical forged 383 build, and i thought about it, $400 to save 35lbs (equivalent of maybe 5 hp).. or $400 for nitrous (150 hp), guess which one i went with..
there are waay more economic ways to go faster
unless you need the clearance or you have money to burn.
in my case, typical forged 383 build, and i thought about it, $400 to save 35lbs (equivalent of maybe 5 hp).. or $400 for nitrous (150 hp), guess which one i went with..
there are waay more economic ways to go faster
Just make sure you are comfortable with the potential reduced durability on the street. There are certain brands out there that have been known to fail (develop cracks or fail catastrophically) with the rigors of street driving. Even if you get a real beefy one I would be inspecting for fatigue on a regular basis. And to me, a real strong piece does not offer significant weight reduction anyhow.
The road race guys have mixed feelings. Make sure to get their input.
-Scott.
The road race guys have mixed feelings. Make sure to get their input.
-Scott.
Re: Is it worth it to get a tubular K-member?
I had a PA K member, spohn a-arms and kyb adjustables on my 96, I drive in memphis and they didnt like these roads. I busted the end off a shock and it bent a upper arm. Now with my 95 Z , I still have the stock stuff on it while Im using it as a daily. Next spring it will become a track car and Ill go tubular on it. If it will be your daily make sure you do consider the reliablitly issue.
Re: Is it worth it to get a tubular K-member?
Just make sure you are comfortable with the potential reduced durability on the street. There are certain brands out there that have been known to fail (develop cracks or fail catastrophically) with the rigors of street driving. Even if you get a real beefy one I would be inspecting for fatigue on a regular basis. And to me, a real strong piece does not offer significant weight reduction anyhow.
The road race guys have mixed feelings. Make sure to get their input.
-Scott.
The road race guys have mixed feelings. Make sure to get their input.
-Scott.
If you have any links handy post them please.


