I was told on my last dyno run that I was blowing out the spark on top end. So I dropped my gap from a .35 to a .30 and its still breaking up at top end. The car is a 11psi P1-SC 383 with NGK tr6. I have some MSD wires on the way also so that may help too, Im running stock plug wires now

 

Are you running a CD ignition box (MSD, Crane, etc.)? You need one if you aren't.

Rich

 

Yeah, I guess it would be helpful to mention that. I have a Mallory-685

 

Well, if the box is working right and the coil is in good shape there is no reason it would be blowing out the spark. AFAIK.

Rich

 

I guess Ill throw the new plug wires on and drop the gap to .025. If that doesnt work, should I try a TR7??

 

What I am saying is that IF the box, coil, and plugs/wires are in decent shape the problem is not the spark blowing out. There should be no reason to run a gap that small.

Rich

 

gotcha....gracias

 

Rich, not to steal the thread, but I am going to be running a dual intercooled D1SC set up on about 7-8 PSI sometime soon. Think I could skimp by with the stock coil? I plan on running a MSD or Crane ignition box.

 

I don't think it will be any problem for you.

Rich

 

ditch the NGK and run good ole cheep autolites

 

Thanks Rich ...

 

.045 on stock autolites normal heat range. Delteq Ignition with no ignition box. No misses up to 6400 rpm.

I would check your connections on the high resolution wire that comes out the top of the opti. That was the cause of my high rpm miss.

 

I was having the same issues on my old set-up. Turns out my opti cap was corroded at the terminals (at 30,000 on the odo).

 

I use a .040" gap with 10# boost and a Crane Hi-6 and LX-92 coil, Accel wires and a MSD cap.

 

Well I found out I dont have a miss, I have valve float. .600" lift springs and a .628" cam with 11 psi dont play together nicely