how many lt1s have been in the 9s with d1 alone? i know of 2 maybe. I should of hit it when i still had it but i didnt. I dont know what dyno you all using but i dynoed on a AWD dynojet 640rwhp on a 7.65/34 combo. With no intake pipe and through a restrictive twin intercoolers. I highly doubt you will hit 800rwhp on blower alone but what do i know. if you hit 800rwhp you should be in the low 9s high 8s

 

To be honest i want to be able to spin wheels at high speeds W/315 on 17'' with out having to slip the clutch. I know it sound stupid but i like getting side ways some times. I plan on another set of drag slick for track, and when looking for race on street.So maybe i should drive w/s-trim for now and skip T-trim for YSI. I really don't know what 550-600 feels like.I've been fighting with rear main leak so i haven't run blower yet.I'm in process of taking motor out for my new 1pc rear main crower crankshaft to replace the 2pc the builder put in it.And ever time i'm on this web site i think don't have enough power.

 

I have seen/ridden in 1 Supra single turbo that dyno'd at 858 RWHP, a Supercharged Saleen with more than 1,000 RWHP, a juiced and blown fox body mustang with 850+ RWHP, and 3 different F-bodies with more than 800 RWHP. All yeild the same results (with the exception of the fox body, since it was an all out drag car), they were dyno queens that couldn't hook worth a sh*t on both the street and the track. The Saleen would leave black lines with the slicks on in 4th gear at over 100 MPH! I'm not saying you can't hook at power levels this high, I am mearly saying it's not easy to do so, and that most will show serious traction issues even with lots of suspension mods and good tires with breeching the 800+ RWHP mark.

I am running a 7.65 crank pulley and a 3.40 blower pulley with my D1SC combo, and I only see 15.3#'s of boost . I have seen guys pull 18#'s before, and heard of others claiming 20#'s. I know with my particular combo of running AFR 180 heads, along with a gargantuan cam, and a big FMIC, all with the small plastic inlet tube from ATI is why I don't see the higher numbers. This year I will be swapping to a custom fabbed inlet tube, and using some methanol to add some timing. I am guessing it will net me at least another 50 RWHP or so. It does get difficult to press the D1 past 16#'s of boost, but with a good set of heads that you have, and a good cam, along with no intercooler will help your boost levels.

Back to the original poster here, like I said before, it totally depends on what you want. If you will be content with 700-750 RWHP, then I believe you can attain that with maxing out the T-Trim, or worst case scenareo, adding a little spray to it. Other than the freak of nature LittleRedZ, I seriously doubt you will hook up at this attained HP level. I have just seen too much evidence first hand that leads me to believe otherwise. It is true that you could just get the YSi blower and set it at a mild level of boost for it and probably attain the same HP level.

 

call911 is right, with the power level in my sig, through a 6 speed and 315 nitto DR's, i can roll on 80mph 4th gear and spin the tires...granted ive walked over 400rwhp cars while doing so...but it is a scary ride...btw, all stock suspension, cause im broke and in college

 

i can nail 2nd and it wont spin at all....315 nittos, LCA, Moser 12 bolt (3.73s)and a TQ ARM are my suspension mods.

 

mm i still say we put my motor in your car...

 

I can also nail 2nd (as long as it starts at a low RPM) and not have it break loose with my Nittor DR 275's. But again, I have pretty much every suspension mod done on my car to help it hook up. But get it on a cold day, or a hit at 3,000 RPM or above, and the tires will break loose as the boost builds quickly even on my setup.

Thats pretty much what I am talking about when I said I wanted to keep something on the "edge" of breaking the tires loose. I can barely fineagle my setup as is and not break it loose too bad even while attaining WOT. I figure I've only got about another 50 RWHP or so, before its just too much to keep up with. This is just my personal goal. Others (such as the original poster of this thread) may want to slip and slide at 75 MPH, it's just not what I am looking to do as I'd rather be able to use all the ponies I have rather than having all that extra power be useless in a race by spinning.

 

So does any one have an idea of what cam i should run? I'm going to stick w/s-trim for now till i get bored of it then most likely get more boost. Haven't decided witch blower. And while my motor is apart i'm getting pistons coated in case i shoot no2.So in other words i more confused than a stripper. I've got the cc306 and from what I've read it's going to bleed off boost,not what i need especially when i don't have enough to begin with.

 

one thing you should remember is that the ys1 is alot peakier than the t-trim, for a street setup, i feel the t-trim is better suited. with a ysi, youll have less low end due to the step up ratio, then all the sudden you get blasted up top with power.

also, if youre looking for an aftercooler kit for that s-trim, ive got one ill let go cheap

 

Look man, its simple. This is what it breakes down to,

450-550 RWHP range = S-Trim
550-700 RWHP range = T-Trim
700+ RWHP = YSi
(all figured with the aftercooler)

If you want to tweak the numbers a little, you can add nitrous, or better yet, methanol.

As far as the cam goes, you want a good one for your setup. A CC306 will do fine on either the S or T Trim, but as mentioned on a YSi setup, the boost really doesn't come on until later, and the CC306 doesn't really start making power until up top either, so it may not be the best choice of cam for you then. Basically you want something to give you power until the boost levels increase enough to give you power from the blower. It seems to me that most mid range cams are ideal for this, and not ones such as the GM847 or the CC306. On the other hand, my car is setup with a large cam, and it is perfect for me because it gives my car a chance to build some MPH before the power really comes on, and by that point, I am moving fast enough that traction is still good.

One other consideration is to go with a Procharger. I know the F-1 builds good power down low compared to the YSi that makes it all up top.

Any choice you make, just be sure to get a good set of forged pistons, with a low CR. I would reccomend something around 8.5-1 to 9-1.

 

If you want an idea of the power curve a big cam and a T-Trim equivilant (D1SC) will look like on the dyno, here's a video of my car when it got tuned.
I have a custom camshaft, 244/254 @ .050, .578/.578 lift, 114* LSA

Click here to see Video

 

I would say the T-trim is equivilant to the P1SC IMO, The D1SC is right in between the T-trim and the YSI.

 

Here are the exact cfm numbers;

S trim = 1,000cfm
T trim = 1,200cfm
YSi = 1,600cfm

P1SC = 1,200cfm
D1SC = 1,400cfm
F1 = 1,525cfm
F1R/D1R = 2,000cfm

 

thats arguable

 

7.65 and 3.40 i saw about 17-18psi. without the intake(makes a huge difference about 4-5lbs and about 100rwhp)