Usually with ground effect you will need a bigger air dam. This is a must for most GFX, if not you car will overheat. I know! My car never overheated but ran a lot hotter, when it use to be around 275-280 all the time during normal driving. I got my bigger air dam from Wing West and it went back down to normal.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hughla...2b.jpg&.src=ph

Secondly, I'm not too sure how accurate it is to measure from the driver side exhaust as there is not much flow there. I would use an extra O2 bung if possible, if not I would measure from the passenger side exhaust (this was what I did). Your number doesn't seem way off either, but does require a little re-tune.

If you have a table of A/F with rpm, it is pretty straight forward to retune to get a better A/F curve. Bryan can do this readily for you with the data or you can use this file from LJ - http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutorial/DynoTune.zip

Also, are you really seeing 10# of boost or do you think you are seeing 10# of boost. Do you have a boost guage or better yet, if the dyno have a boost output that is even better. I had only see 11.5# on my car. The exact number of boost isn't important except to tell you if you are making full boost or not.

Timing will also play a big role in making good power.

cheers

 

To anwser to the last post!

Yes i do have a air dam from west wing that was sent with the ground effects kit i had to trim the sides of it off to make corrections for the twin high flow intercoolers. Which i believe is taking away from the flow to the air dam because i took a 1/3 of the air dam away for the intercoolers.

I did send bryan 2 pages with detail info on the entire range of rpm's with the A/F ratios.

I am using digital vacumn/boost gauge which is barely showing 10 @ 6100rpms.

Thank's for the indepth post for my problems can i send you the dyno results so u can tell me what changes to make.

(Once a guy told me never turn down any information from anybody cause even the smartest guys make mistakes, the one on the lower scale of brain power some time make the greatest inventions! Which include me!).

Please im @ the mercy of god + im drunk off beer right Know.
Reggie

 

Good luck with that set up. Keep us updated.

Raymond

 

Something is definately not right. I made only 20 less hp with a stock motor+bolt ons and less boost.

And the a/f needs to be flat. I am sure you know that already but that 14:1 is dangerous.

The guy who tuned mine put the 02 in the tailpipe first, then moved it to the cutout with no difference(minimal enough to not worry) in reading so you are probably getting an accurate reading.

 

If you want to email it to me then I can post them online if you want, that may help with the trouble shooting...

 

I am sending u the e-mail right know!

Thanks
Reggie

 

ok here you go
http://www.pszweb.com/car/reggie.htm
If any info is worng let me know...

 

If you are using TFS heads with a stock intake that could be a problem..The ports on the TFS heads open up bigger then LT4 when fully ported. You should use a port matched LT4 intake. That is what I am going with and Lloyd Elliot is going to port them. I think the LT1 intake will block parts of the intake ports, unless really mildly ported...

 

He said that he was running a port matched LT1 intake, would the LT4 make that much of a difference if the stock was port matched?

 

Well when I purchased my TFS heads Lloyd made it really clear that the heads needed a lt4 intake if I wanted to open them up. I was told the lt1 intake would cover the intake runner ports. AFRs also use only lt4 intakes due to the runner size. I know the lt1 intakes are a big restriction on high hp cars. Might want to call Lloyd and find out what he suggests. I know they work with lt1 intakes unported, but once you open the runners form 195cc to around 220cc, for cfm around 295 you need the lt4 intake.

 

with my 383 10psi boost and afr 190 heads i did 607 with 8psi 555rwhp... I did 501rwhp w/o intercooler @9psi boost and LOTS of fueling issues

 

Its in the tune, I wouldn't worry about that intake yet. I made 540 with a mild set of heads and stock intake. I'm making 12lbs with a 7/2.85 combo on the s-trim, our IAT's are the same. I had about 12-1 at peak power and 30* of timing.

 

Well guy's i figured out 2 of my Problems!
1. Idler puller on belt tentioner was stuck and not spinning on the supercharger bracket.

2. On the dyno the guy was using a 4.10 gear ratio instead of a 3.73 by trying to correct the rpms to match the dyno rpms.

Hope to get back to the dyno soon to get higher #'s

 

I dunno whats wrong. I have less head and less cam and my car with stock tunning and 10psi boost no intercooler with my s-trim made 465 rwhp and 450rwtq with the mods in my sig.

 

I respectfully disagree. There is very little difference between the LT1 and LT4 intake. They both suck. Plus, the early '93-'95 LT1 intakes actually have larger ports than LT4. If you don't believe me, compare the two side-by-side and you'll be surprised when you find that you can't tell them apart aside from the red paint. Neither will go 295 cfm, by the way. Stock, they will not go over ~260 and ported you might see 275 cfm.