UPDATE! She's running on all 8 now (Freakin finally). My next problem, keeping it straight on the road. Every time it gets into boost, it starts spinning and the rear end tries to come around.
It's hard to tell what the boost level it's getting to and at what RPM when it comes into boost so quickly and the tires start spinning at 50mph. Plus, shortsighted me... I put the boost and A/F gauge down on the console so they look really pretty. Too bad you can't see then while driving cause the farking shift **** is in the way. Lol... Pod on the column, coming up.



I got my Turbo installation all finished, then started the car. My scanner immediately noted way lean on the Left O2 Sensor. I thought my O2 sensor might be bad. I bought two new ones. Hooked up scanner and started the engine. Doh! Same as before! Block learn pegged at 160. I converted the Bryan Herter Flash file (Via LT1 Edit) to Speed Density. This was 'better' but it still bucks and back fires. Sometimes it seems like a motor running on 7 cylinders with the 8th periodically firing. Weird!! So, then I decided to log the events while I drove it up and down the block. But, As I sat there with the key on (motor off though) and got the scan/log session going, I noticed something odd. You know that when you first turn the key on, the O2 heaters come on and start warming the O2. Well, both O2 readings (remember, the motor is still off at this point, just the key is in the 'Run' position) are showing 458 mv at first, then the right side (that's been normal from day one) starts slowly moving up to 7xx, 8xx millivolts. But the left side that's been giving me grief, goes down to low single digit millivolts and stays there. Wow... what the hell? Wiring issue? Must be! I went ahead and drove the car down the block and back with the scanner on. It's bucking, sneezing, backfiring... ugh... This is the same thing it did when the Turbo is not hooked up. I'm going to pull the wiring harness off that side, up into the engine bay and start looking for shorted wiring.

 

What kind of oxygen sensors did you get? I went through 3 different new Bosch oxygen sensors in my Formula before I ended up going with an AC Delco to fix the problem. Later after I did some research, I found several others that had bad or faulty new Bosch oxygen sensors as well.

It might be something to consider.

 

just swap the O2 sensors that are currently on the car (drivers side <----> passenger side). See if the problem follows the supposed bad sensor or if it stays on the same side. I too have had issues with brand new O2 sensors.

 

I had already swapped the O2 sensors and the harnesses. Even my brand new wide band O2 setup shows that side as Lean. But after spending all day, and I mean ALL day, working on it, tuning it over and over with my LT1 Edit. I found it actually is the way the hot side is configured. If you put the wide band in the RIGHT hand side, it reads accurately. If you put ANY O2 sensor in the world in the LEFT hand side, it's going to read lean. Why? Because the Left O2 sensor bung is in the down pipe, not the left manifold. I'm guessing here but I suspect there is air getting into the V-Band that attaches the Downpipe to the Turbo housing. I actually got it to start and stay running (that itself is a HUGE departure from the unfortunate norm these past few days) by loading my OLD flash file. I'm sure this tune I purchased is fine for someone but my combo must hate it. With the purchased turbo tune, it bucked, spitted, backfired, got a ton of knock retard and wouldn't idle without paddling the gas pedal. After checking a lot of things and getting very frustrated, I thought, "why not just load you old tune? You got nothing to lose and you won't even get greasy on this one....". So I took the old tune that was for my solid roller cammed 383, set the injectors to reflect the 60# mototrons, bumped the cubic inches down to 355, uploaded the flash file and started it. Wow... it started w/o stomping the gas (clear flood mode), idles nicely and isn't backfiring, etc. Of course this tune would not be good for boost but hey, at least I can drive the thing to/from work now. I turned in my rental car. Farking $715. I have to get the Z28 road worthy. Tomorrow is another day of whittling away at the tune. I swapped tunes 21 times today. Taking a bit from the turbo tune, adding it to the solid roller tune, upload/evaluating it. I got about 6 tunes into it when I loaded the "Load versus Temp" table. This was the only table I modified for this test. The engine didn't like it. The motor seems to prefer more advance than the tables in the turbo tune provide.
The down pipe is contacting the frame of the car and thus introducing lots of Knock retard. I've got to address that tomorrow too.

 

I guess after flashing it 21 times you know by now that there is nothing wrong with your MAF tune that Bryan sent you. LOL. You need to get your left bank O2 sensor bung welded into the left bank airflow. Having it in the downpipe is giving it a false reading. You can buy round O2 bungs for about $3.00 and take it to an exhaust shop for the welding. If you must drive your car to work then set the "Temp to enable closed loop" to full max and run it in open loop until you get the O2 sensor fixed.

 

Dave, I am stumped. The QMP, TTi, Stainless works kits utilize the O2's in the same spot. Having the O2 in the DP shouldnt be a problem. Since you see both bank's A/F whether you have the O2 in the log or the DP.

Have you talked to Justin (since his was the same kit), or engineermike?

 

I pulled the plugs back last Thursday after getting the car off the transport. After going over to my buds house with the old plugs we were discussing how one of them looked notably cleaner than the other seven and wet. ?!! We discussed this revelation and he lent me one of his sets of coils off one of his LS1 Fbodies to test the coils as well. (You may know him. His name is Brian Grimal). Seeing how testing coils is much easier than swapping injectors, I crossed my fingers and swapped the drivers side coil set first. Right off the bat, it started with more authority and idled smoother. I thought "Wow! It's ignition coils?". So I decided to take a quick drive. It was so much better but after about a block it was obvious, it's running on 7 cylinders. Holy crap! In one of my earlier posts I'd mentioned that previous to this, it felt like it was running on 6. It must have been! So, encouraged but puzzled, I drove back to the garage and swapped on the other sides coil set. Took a drive. Bah.. still on 7. And I mean it is a DEAD cylinder, whichever one it is. It doesn't occasionally hit. It's missing in action/AWOL completely. So back to the garage. I'm letting it cool down now. I'm going to pull the plugs again and have a look at them. I'm hoping one of them on the drivers side is totally fouled and all it will take is a new set of plugs. After I pull them, I'll lay them across the top of the valve covers, turn on the key and spin the motor over with my remote starter button to see if they spark or not.

 

Well.... over nighted the Opti and a new Opti Pigtail and it was here to greet me when I came home from work. Tested them before installing it by just hooking up the harness to the new one, turned on the key, spun the opti. The red blinking light on the LTCC was gone and I could hear the spark plugs sparking. Cool ... So I installed it. Then swapped the injectors back to the mototrons. Reflashed the PCM with Bryans tune and fired it up.
IT RUNS THE SAME G*D DAMNED WAY AS IT HAD!!!! Running on 6 cylinders at the most.
UNbelievable! This is so sad it's funny.
I tried relashing it with the timing advanced 2 degrees across the board since it starts so weakly. Doesn't matter.
Ill get a timing light tomorrow and see it that reveals anything.
The scanner says it's got 32 degrees at 850 rpm now. It did say 30 before I added the extra timing.

 

Dunno if this question has been asked before, but have you bypassed the LTCC and tried the stock ignition system?

 

Yes. It has been suggested but I've had the LTCC setup(though this is a new box, I sold my first one with the 94Z28 a couple of months ago) since 2003 and since you don't need a stock coil/ICM, I tossed those long ago.
Thanks,
dave

 

If you come down to thinking you wanna bypass ltcc i have a coil and icm outta a 96.

 

I have a stock coil from a 94 Z28. Send me your addy and $5, i'll send it out to ya.

Otherwise, i think oreillys has coils for like $15 for house brand

 

Found my cam specs. Going to pick up the cam degree kit plus the nut you put on the crank to turn it over. I have to wait till about noon today to meet the guy (Fbody Buddy of course! The best guys/girls on the planet!) to pick up his kit, accessories. I did a little more research (prompted by fellow LS1Tech'r Chuck Norton. Thanks Chuck!) and found that not only did my engine builder not adv/retard the cam 2 degrees as he'd stated, the timing set (CLO-9-3145) doesn't even have a provision for just 2 degrees. It has 3 keyways. 4 degrees Advanced, "Standard/Dot-to-Dot" and 4 degrees Retarded. (For those in Rio Linda, that means you can't *just* add/subtract 2 degrees with this timing set). Something stinks here (and it's not just that shirt I've been wearing while under the car) Using the ICL (Intake CenterLine method) the cam should show a 112 ICL if it's degreed properly.

 

isnt reatarding and advancing timing done through reprograming the pcm why do people always try to do it by there...

 

That is only adv/retarding the spark. Degreeing the cam dictates when the VALVES open/close in relation to the piston travel.