want to FI a stock daily driver...info please
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
want to FI a stock daily driver...info please
alright, if my 97 doesn't sell so i can buy a Vette, i am buying an S/C. wanted turbo, but i don't have the time or resources to do that serious of tuning. this is a stock motor. i will buy headers but but as far as internals go, the thing is stock. i'm sure this is an over asked question but i am planning on making the purchase in a month during spring break. so a few questions and also please add your own comments/advice about anything else i need to know.
1) vortech, procharger, powerdyne?...i liked the 3yr warranty of the procharger
2) how much boost can i SAFELY push?
3) how much HP/TQ with the above amount of boost?
4) is the fuel economy more efficient than doing a big heads/cam package?
5) which rear gear will make less stress on my drivetrain, 2.73 or 3.42? (i realize 3.42's are quicker, i'm not that stupid, but which is more forgiving to the good'ol GM 10 bolt?)
6) do you want my car while it's stock? i have pics to help reveal the cleanliness of it!
$8500 obo
1) vortech, procharger, powerdyne?...i liked the 3yr warranty of the procharger
2) how much boost can i SAFELY push?
3) how much HP/TQ with the above amount of boost?
4) is the fuel economy more efficient than doing a big heads/cam package?
5) which rear gear will make less stress on my drivetrain, 2.73 or 3.42? (i realize 3.42's are quicker, i'm not that stupid, but which is more forgiving to the good'ol GM 10 bolt?)
6) do you want my car while it's stock? i have pics to help reveal the cleanliness of it!
$8500 obo
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,373
From: Metro Detroit, MI
A fellow ME student. Sweet! The scholarship chairperson at my school went to OSU where he got his bachelors, masters, and a few doctoral degrees while he was at it. Great school!
As far as supercharger...I have seen most people go 8lbs intercooled stock w/o much difficulty. I would recommend getting a dynotune (not just mail-order) because tuning is what will make your engine last and perform well for a long time. I would ditch the fmu they give you and just run the bigger injectors (no biggie since you're getting dynotune anyways).
What else do you want to know? I've searched this stuff a lot so I can probably tell you who is going to say what.
As far as supercharger...I have seen most people go 8lbs intercooled stock w/o much difficulty. I would recommend getting a dynotune (not just mail-order) because tuning is what will make your engine last and perform well for a long time. I would ditch the fmu they give you and just run the bigger injectors (no biggie since you're getting dynotune anyways).
What else do you want to know? I've searched this stuff a lot so I can probably tell you who is going to say what.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
Originally posted by ltlhomer
A fellow ME student. Sweet! The scholarship chairperson at my school went to OSU where he got his bachelors, masters, and a few doctoral degrees while he was at it. Great school!
As far as supercharger...I have seen most people go 8lbs intercooled stock w/o much difficulty. I would recommend getting a dynotune (not just mail-order) because tuning is what will make your engine last and perform well for a long time. I would ditch the fmu they give you and just run the bigger injectors (no biggie since you're getting dynotune anyways).
What else do you want to know? I've searched this stuff a lot so I can probably tell you who is going to say what.
A fellow ME student. Sweet! The scholarship chairperson at my school went to OSU where he got his bachelors, masters, and a few doctoral degrees while he was at it. Great school!
As far as supercharger...I have seen most people go 8lbs intercooled stock w/o much difficulty. I would recommend getting a dynotune (not just mail-order) because tuning is what will make your engine last and perform well for a long time. I would ditch the fmu they give you and just run the bigger injectors (no biggie since you're getting dynotune anyways).
What else do you want to know? I've searched this stuff a lot so I can probably tell you who is going to say what.
so you really think i could do 8lbs? i figured that would be stretching it. what can you tell me about dyno tunes? am i going to need lt1 edit and learn how to tune it myself or will the dyno shop provide the resources and tune it for you? also, have you found that any brand of S/C seems to be better than the rest?
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,373
From: Metro Detroit, MI
I go to LTU not crappy UofM or MSU.
ATI/Vortech seem to be the weapons of choice for most of the FI guys. For stock motors, s-trims and p600b's/p1sc's are usually the blowers.
As far as dynotune, find a local shop that tunes lt1's and they should have everything they need. I'm sure there is a shop within a few hours that can take care of you.
ATI/Vortech seem to be the weapons of choice for most of the FI guys. For stock motors, s-trims and p600b's/p1sc's are usually the blowers.
As far as dynotune, find a local shop that tunes lt1's and they should have everything they need. I'm sure there is a shop within a few hours that can take care of you.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
an inter- or after-cooler is not going to be needed for my stock application will it? right now i'm looking at the P1SC 8# boost with 2-core intercooler for $3789.99 will the intercooler push my engine past it's limit?
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
I think you need to decide if you want a Corvette or an F-body. It seems you really want a Corvette. If that's so, why put $$$ into the F-body? You will kill the value of the car by installing a blower, putting you enen further away from the Corvette you really seem to want.
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
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Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,784
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Originally posted by rskrause
I think you need to decide if you want a Corvette or an F-body. It seems you really want a Corvette. If that's so, why put $$$ into the F-body? You will kill the value of the car by installing a blower, putting you enen further away from the Corvette you really seem to want.
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
I think you need to decide if you want a Corvette or an F-body. It seems you really want a Corvette. If that's so, why put $$$ into the F-body? You will kill the value of the car by installing a blower, putting you enen further away from the Corvette you really seem to want.
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
Originally posted by rskrause
I think you need to decide if you want a Corvette or an F-body. It seems you really want a Corvette. If that's so, why put $$$ into the F-body? You will kill the value of the car by installing a blower, putting you enen further away from the Corvette you really seem to want.
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
I think you need to decide if you want a Corvette or an F-body. It seems you really want a Corvette. If that's so, why put $$$ into the F-body? You will kill the value of the car by installing a blower, putting you enen further away from the Corvette you really seem to want.
No blower on a stock motor is "safe". There's a large number of variables that will play into the reliability of such a combo. You've identified a major one: how much boost. But how you drive it and tuning play a big role. Still, there's a big element of plain old dumb luck. In any case, you have the right idea about some dynotuning. Getting the AF ratio and timing right are important if you want it to last. We put a Procharger kit on a Mustang a while back. Installed correctly as per the instructions, the AF was 15:1! The car drove fine and made good power. But if this had been a DIY job, with no testing on the dyno, it might have gone a couple of hundred miles, if that, before a major meltdown. After reprogramming the PCM, the AF was a nice, safe 13:1 at WOT and the last I heard it was still running strong.
Rich Krause
one person raised their original offer after they seeen the car and offerred me $8300 without the aftermarket cat-back. then he couldn't come up with a loan.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
The problem is I have seen 98 LS1 cars go for that price. Do you have any pics of your car?
The problem is I have seen 98 LS1 cars go for that price. Do you have any pics of your car?
and i see you're point on the ls1 thing but have you seen a clean ls1 for that cheap? the 3 i've gone and looked at haven't even been comparable to the 97 i've got. the couple of guys who have came to look at the car said they were very impressed and it was much cleaner than they expected.
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
If its' really nice, you should be able to get that much. But you are going to have to look for a long time to find a buyer who is willing/able to pay a premium for a really clean car.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,026
From: Ohio
Originally posted by rskrause
If its' really nice, you should be able to get that much. But you are going to have to look for a long time to find a buyer who is willing/able to pay a premium for a really clean car.
Rich Krause
If its' really nice, you should be able to get that much. But you are going to have to look for a long time to find a buyer who is willing/able to pay a premium for a really clean car.
Rich Krause
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