Or I can use mild and have no problems.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...45017022IuyWEX

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2108416/2


that's some pretty ingenious mounting of the accessories. It's not gorgeous, but it still looks better than half these home brew setups I've seen. Still not cheap by any means. How's it run?

 

I haven't run mine yet, still acquiring parts/building my 383/T trim LT1 project. I'll eventually get around to putting the TT motor into my truck.

 

i agree its not georgous...again, why i opted not to spend money on coating my headers cause ill probably re-do them since im a much better welder now...btw, did i mention im only 20 years old and im doing this in my garage, on a college budget? no $2k tig here...just an old used mig machine...anyway, im still trying to get a strong enough rpm sig. to trigger the computer...so it doesnt run at the moment.

and yeah thats the only place i could find to put the accessories, i just kinda made do with the room i had

and badst... my tubing is 14 guage, plenty thick and strong for what im using it for, and much cheaper...so i dont see a problem? its better than all the logs out there you see that just rob power and crack, stainless or not

 

with the heating and cooling process that turbo header go through, it's probably not going to be long before headers made of mild steel will start to crack.

Also obviously you have a turbo car from your sig, but I call BS on your prices. either you bought a bunch of half assed parts or you've forgotten how much things really cost you.

 

Nicely said! My words exactly!!!

 

all parts were new, but some i purchased from other board members that decided not to use them...

wastegates $500
turbos, one $575, one was $620
header tubing and flanges, $240
silicone and t bolt clamps, $100
intercooler $190
v bands $120
exhaust piping $150
replacement wastegate valve seat (one wastegate didnt have one for some reason ) $30
century 130 amp mig welder, used $120
14" chop saw $20

$2665 ...and even though i got some of these parts at a discount through board members, the prices arent that far off from what they are new...

-now the motor,

rotating assembly, $1400 (eagle 4340 forged crank, 3d h beam rods with arp2000 bolts, and srp -22cc pistons)
eagle splayed caps $80
new unasembled trick flow heads from board member $700
valves $180
springs and other parts to assemle heads, $250
machine work $1100
cam $290
gaskets $140

shortblock $3010
complete motor came to $4140

-fuel system

lines, fittings, y blocks, and hoses, $500
pumps, $200
FPR $140
fuel filter $30

fuel system total, $870

so i was a little off on the motor, but its still not a $10k motor...i may have left out a few things, but my prices werent far off what i said earlier, i dont see how people can spend $10k on a motor, unless they are paying someone to build it for them, same goes for the turbo kit, if i could to it again, i would use backwards shorty headers, and single turbo like the PTK kit and it would have been MUCH cheaper...

and why would 14 guage mild steel crack? and stainless not? do you know why all the stainless logs crack and the mild steel ones do not? Stainless steel is non-corrosive because of the addition of different metals, but mainly chromium, which has a hard, but brittle property, which makes stainless more prone to cracking than regular mild or low carbon steel, not to mention the fact that a tubular header is much stronger than a log to start with, and you dont see mild steel logs cracking like you see stainless ones cracking...or any 14 guage tubular headers cracking...

your not making any valid points here...actually your only point is that because i did not spend alot of money, my setup must be crap and will fail...that sure makes a lot of sense

 

A tubular stainless steel header is the way to go... better than log or a mild steel header... period.

Here's a pic of my friend's Outlaw Mustang that makes almost 3000 hp with over 30 pounds of boost Guess what... stainless steel turbo headers. I think that they might just get a little hotter than your average turbo set up... and they don't crack.

 

They aren't supporting any weight in that configuration either. Neat car though.

 

You can tell that from that pic, huh? The turbo headers should't support all of the weight anyway.

 

That isn't the first twin turbo mustang I've seen. Besides, common sense would dictate that the headers aren't going to be 7 feet long and snaking around everything to get to where those turbos are mounted.

I agree that the headers shouldn't support the weight, but for most that is what ends up happenning. Look at the way I have mine situated, they support a good bit of weight which is primarily why the pipe length was kept to a minimum (space being second since it's in an S10).

Lets be honest here. The material itself is 98.9% probably not going to crack no matter how you mount the turbos. The problem areas are going to be the welds.

 

Ain't that the truth.

 

And that is a race car that sees no street miles.

There is no problems at all with coated mild steel turbo systems. It's what I prefer for a street car, it lasts many many years.

Stainless tubing will obviously not corrode, but it is more brittle with a much higher expansion rate, which can lead to cracking on a street car that sees many heat cycles.

 

That's a good point too. A ceramic coated turbo header will be much better than a painted turbo header. I think that stainless steel gets a bum rap sometimes. Why is that many of these turbo kits out there are made from stainless steel?

For a street car... that may see the elements from time to time, a stainless steel turbo set up might be a better choice perhaps?

I guess the mild steel vs. stainless steel header debate could get pretty heated. Get it? Heated.

 

Well they are both good materials, with mild you have to worry about rusting, but that can be remedied by coatings. With stainless, cracking can be an issue, but things like slip fit collectors and good turbo supports (which should be used on any system) go a long way.

From what I've seen, it seems about 50/50 for stainless/mild as far as turbo system manufacturers go. I believe PTK (now PTS?) recommends coated mild steel now due to cracking issues with stainless, but I'm not 100% sure on that. (just something I read on another board)