Hey guys,
I was installing my P1SC procharger on my LT1 today. I have a ATI Super Damper on the motor and when I got to installing the Crank pulley the bolts that came with the P1SC kit don't fit (the bolts that came with the kit are to big in diameter). So I went and got some grade 8 bolts that were the same length as the P1SC kit bolts and the same diameter as the ATI Super Damper bolts... Now I have the crank pulley is installed. I checked to see if the crank pulley lines up with the blower pulley and now the crank pulley sticks out about .25" further than the blower pulley. Does anyone have a ATI Super Damper and a P1SC Procharger kit on their LT1? Does anyone else have this problem? How do I fix it?

Thanks,
Jay

 

You might want to post on the Forced Induction forum.

You also might want to consider "double" keying the ATI damper, and reinforcing the hub. I have seen two of them break the hub at the keyway, driving high boost S/C's.... one an ATI and the other a Vortech.

 

You have to machine down the pulley spacer approx. .25" to align the belts. Spend considerable time getting an exact measurement as you will heave belt problems if it is off.

Also the end of the pulley spacer (that fits in the balancer) is too small to properly locate inside of the new crank hub. A machine shop can press an aluminum sleeve on the spacer to make it fit snug in the hub. Do not skip this step as this centers the pulley to the crank.

 

damn, with all this talk of people breaking these dampers, I'm considering selling my Fluidampr before I end up breaking it and just getting the stock hub machined to be keyed.

 

ATI makes a big block size hub for the LT1 with dual 3/16" keyways that bolts to their damper shell that you'd never break. It takes three weeks for them to get it made and it costs $175 just for the hub, but it's strong. Oh, you also have to have your timing cover drilled to the larger diameter hole...

Check this out...

http://users.csionline.net/~dawulf/i...NewATIHub4.JPG

 

Here's ATI press release. Be sure to specify the LT1 version and don't get the timing cover shown.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co.../pr/031803.htm

 

how hard is it to machine an extra keyway in the crank? Is that really necessary with the big block hub?

 

You hijacked my picture !!!

Yea, like Tony says, ATI makes one, I have one of the first productions ones and I can say it's a nice piece. I had SD-Concepts make me up a spacer to fit the ATI Superdamper and the procharger crank pulley.

Check this thread for more details..

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=202609

--Sean

 

If the crank is out, it's easy. If it's in the car, it's very tough. Given the strength of that hub, I probably wouldn't pull the engine for the extra keyway. Just wait for the next rebuild... Then again, if you're approaching 1000 hp, it would probably be worth it. I suppose that worst case you could snap the end off the crank. I'm really not sure if the second keyway provides any load distribution benefits. Be a good question for an engineer...

 

That's exactly what Scott @ SD-Concepts said. He told me that having a 2nd key in a crank isn't worth it. He said unless the keyway and hub match up 100% perfectly (which is near impossible), all the pressure is going to be on 1 key anyway. Having a 2nd key in there is for your peace of mind only, it doesn't help. He told me they have 1100 HP cars with prochargers running single keys..

--Sean

 

I thought i read that somewhere before about the 1 keyway getting all the pressure. I suppose I'll be calling SD soon.