UPDATE 07/12/07

Just popped in the fuel tank and dual fuel pump wiring harness and some of the rear suspension.

Dual Pumps and harness


You can seem um but there in there...
I would have popped in the screw jacks and such but with no torque arm it would all fall out.


This is were I put the motor together and keep track of everything on the project board.


Most of the cold side is together. The intercooler location is funny.... .. every pic I have seen of this kit has it mounted in a differnet location.


You can see that the pipes don't exactly line up here but I'm not to concerned. Hell, we can make new stuff or alter hese pipe if it does not line up in the car.

 

Great job Tad!

I tried responding yesterday, but had some Internet problems. That motor looks great with all those shiny pipes around it. But damn, my stock alternator and LCA's really ugly it up! I'll have to fix that!

Yeah, it looks as though the turbo and the intercooler do not hard-mount to the chassis.

The blow off came in a long time ago, so it a have walked around the shop a bit.

As much power as the car will have, I can't wait to feel this suspension setup from Unbalanced Engineering, I'll be blowing the doors off the Porsches at work in a straight line AND on the track! Don't let too many people see that motor. Then no one will ever pick on me.

Maybe we can get PTK to pay you a little for the photos. I'll take 50% for the idea, though.

Hey B, what's the hold up on your car now?

 

1) Im currently working 2 jobs and I have a gf so no time to work on the car.

2) I haven't had time to mock up the ATI balancer and have an aluminum spacer machined for it.

3) The Canton valve covers didn't fit right so I sent them out to Canton to have them tweeked.



-B

P.S. What intercooler did you go with?

 

That sucks man!

My valve covers didn't quite fit with the rocker guides also, so they had to be machined down a little.

The IC is just what was supplied with the kit. Not sure what brand it is.

 

Update July 18th

lots of progress was made~!

This is the hardware for the hobbs switch that controls the second fuel pump.
Well worth the home depot run. The hobbs switch is tucked un the valley of the intake manifold and valve cover. It is not in the way of pulling the valve cover or fuel rails!


Cleaned up the engine bay and popped in the motor.


You cans see the brass hardware for the hobbs switch tucked in by injectors #1&3. the headers have blue painters tape on them to protect them durring the next steps of install.


The rest of the front of the car was pulled apart to aid in installing the cold side pipes. The lower driver side is going to be tight tight tight! As the Exhaust pipe, oil cooler lines, steering, y-pipe, header, and wires all have to live in that space in harmony.


Spindles


Paint


This is machup for the bracket that holds the top of the shock in.
I'll paint everything afters some nice welds go on the A-Arm plate.


I think I'll open up this radiator box of inspection now.
Then I'll pick up a well deserved 16oz. Orange Dream Machine w/ boost for the long drive home.

snorkelface
Motors in,
Getting the motor ready takes time.
Putting the motor in was cake!
NOW, I have about a million little details to address. But the motor is in and were moving on.

 

Close up of hobbs switch please!

-B

 

Nice work!

 

I'll post a pick of the hobbs switch on the next batch

Next week will get interesting!
All the little devils, bugs, mis matchs and intereferences will show up.
I get to do cool fun detail work like wrap pipes and do pluming.
I havent wired a Impedance matching injector driver yet and I know LJ is good so that thing should be way cool.

snorkelface
Mike and I are thinking of modding the oil system.
-the BeCool does NOT have a h20 out for the factory liquid to liquid cooler
-the liquid to liquid cooler is like 2 square inches
-if it happens to work well will raise coolant temps
-I dont like the idea of an oil and NGP milkshake in the crankcase if that 10 year old liquid to liquid cooler goes bad.
-As close as that Y-pipe is to the pan and as much power as you want to make on the street it is a great idea to keep the oil way cool.

block >> canton bypass adapter >> line >> remote spin on oil filter in the front of the car >> big oil cooler >> return line >> canton bypass adapter >> block
You can see that the Canton bypass adapter really cleans things up and clears my Canton pan.



This will give you a touch more oil capacity, easy service and a lot more cooling. +Plus+ if you ever want to add in an Accusump or oil temp and pressure gauges in the future it will be easy. More pics from my Impala...easy reference material... One line is the feed from the motor the other is the send to the cooler. Notice the line in background headed into the bumper were the accusump lives.


This is a picture of the accusump system from my Impala.
Notice the Canton spin on adapter. It has very high flow and the whole system is in 1/2NPT or you can got NPT to AN.

 

It's a shame to see such a pretty motor go into such a cluttered engine bay. D@mn automotive advancements!

Don't show the hobbs switch to -B, I'm trying to get my car done first!

 

See if these pics help you get your cold side sorted out.













Best of luck with the project, I think you will be happy with it in the end.

 

Also, what are the specs of the motor you built if you don't mind me asking.

 

Are you going to be able to put the front clip back on w/ that IC? Awe never mind those are your fog lights. Very nice. As far as your Accusump is concerned are you using the toggle switch in conjunction w/ the pressure switch to activate prior to starting the car? Or are you just going to hotwire it directly off the ignition so as soon as you turn the key it primes the system? Been debating that one for a while. My epc valve bent and had to send the unit back for repair.

 

The motor is a custom built forced induction speced full forged 355, AFR heads, LT4 intake, monoblade TB, hydr roller, crank scraper canton pan. Everything inside is nice nice nice.

No, plans for accusump yet, thats up to the owner. I'm setting up the oil system to take a accusump with very little effort at a later date. With the EPC the accusump is a very effective pre oiler. The driver just has to put the key forward engine off and watch the oil pressure rise before cranking. My personal LT1 is set up this way. On hot restart it will not make the "LT1 crack knock" on startup despite being at 11.75:1 on Ca 91 pump gas. If you have a knock sound on restart that is the crank hitting the bearings



They help quite a bit!
Mounting the intercooler like you did your air to liquid makes no sense on a air to air. I can put the plazma cutter on the bumper and cut up until it is just a frame to hold the air to air FMIC.

 

Those are pics from Jose's site. He is a dealer for PTK. My setup isn't even on my car yet, lol. My motor is being built right now, so you are farther along than I.

I can see what you are saying about the placement of the air to air, however, there is no hole in the front bumper either. I'm sure enough air gets through it at any rate. You can always install it and if your IATs aren't to your liking then you can break out the saw. Just a thought.

 

We are in SoCal!
It's 100+ at the track most of the year and the black top hits 190F now and again. On builds like this I plan for worse case. The bumper has a date with the plazma torch and the fender cover is going to be buddies with my rotozip.

I can not push 2+HP per cube thru and auto on 91 CA pump with 160degF intake temps.