Wow, thanks for the info guys. Hopefully I can do this in the near future. I think it would be insane to pull on a Viper like it was standing still, even from a roll.

 

It's fun

 

IMO, DON'T get nittos. I'd recommend a m/t dr, but the bfg dr will work. I'd pick up some hal shocks all the way around, front hal springs, spohn torque arm, bmr lower control arms, and relocation brackets. 700+rwhp doesn't matter if you can't hook up at anything below 50mph. After you get all the suspension/tires, I'd recommend going out and dialing it in(on the streets). After that, launch that car on the streets at least 150 times so you can learn how to launch it perfectly. After that, go have some fun.

A local viper here runs 10.20's at 138mph with 1.4x 60fts at the track, and on the streets he can launch just as hard as the track. He runs 345 bfg dr's and has his suspension dialed in for the streets. I've seen several local 600+rwhp cars hook up HARD on the streets, it's all about the setup.

 

I have stock suspension with no rear sway bar(never could get it to fit with the back brace on my rearend) and my car hooks pretty good with 315 nitto drags. If I heat them up well I can launch the car and hook on the street. This is with about 15psi in 1st, then max boost for the rest of the gears.

 

May not be the best way to squeeze out every bit of power - but you could boost reference the fuel pressure and timing retard, while keeping the same base tune.

 

Wow, you guys have some insane cars. 1000+rwhp would beat a "Busa", would it not? I think if I could take one of those bikes then I could take just about anything on the streets, lol. BTW, M/T DR means a Mickey Thompson Drag Radial, correct? Do they make tires like these that will fit on an 18" wheel?

 

This will not be adequate... it will depend greatly on your IATs the ammount of retard you need to take away for every psi boost.. its not a linear thing... if the pcm can completely see boost you will get the best performance out of it...

Since i will be using a maf calibrated for 0-900g/s from 0-12000hz, i will need to rescale the injector constant, since i can't put a 900g/s value on the pcm. With that i will also need to lower the VE table and calculate the VE Table completely, thus giving me the opportunity for the PCM to "see" or "calc" a VE greater than 100% since the number will reflect a higher VE with a lower number due to the change in injector constant. I will probably go with a obd2 pcm to add the IAT timing tables and a few other tables that will aid.. i think that with the stock computer and a lot of tweaking you can have awesome driveability with the last itch of HP out of the engine...

It can be done...

 

Well, I've seen boost referencing work for speed density over a couple of hundred hp (6-17psi) on a TT LT1 car. Might not be what Jordan was refering to, and it might not be optimal, but it can and does work. I'm not saying you would want to keep the stock programming or stock map - you definitely wouldnt want to rely entirely on the linear referencing as you mentioned.

You'd still be running a map even on a MAF car though. Why couldnt the computer sense full boost, if you had the right programming? I'm assuming you could still create a timing and fuel tables based on rpm and map readings. <shrug> Maybe it just doesnt work that way though - I'm not to familiar with the mass air cars.

 

BTW, what are you 800+rwhp guys doing for rear ends? I posted a thread on this but I'm still not sure what to get and what options to get with it to make it compatible with my car, which is a stock '95 Z28 as far as brakes and rear end parts are concerned. I've been told that the car has ABS but there is no pulse in the brake pedal at all under hard braking and the tires lock up. I don't think the car has traction control either since there isn't a button for it. Please advise on this because I don't want to have all this power and not be able to drive the car because of the rear end breaking.
FLeX

 

Get the 18's and you won't have to worry about the rear end.

 

Ah, because there won't be enough traction to break the rear end. Now I see the light

 

The only way I know of to "pre-load" a rear end is to adjust the pinion angle using an adjustable torque arm. When torque is applied to the pinion, which turns the ring, but as it's turning it also trys to climb the ring gear. That is why the rear squats more on one side than the other...it's trying to flip the rear end. Setting the pinion angle 1 degree negative will allow the torque to plant the rearend, instead of the torque of the motor taking weight off it. When the car is lowered with Eiback springs for example, the pinion angle is changed because the rearend stays the same, but the body is lowered, making the LCA's pull the rearend forward ever so slightly. It also changes the angle of the LCA's. That is a large majority of the reason why LCA lowering brackets were created. They correct the angle in which the LCA are after the body has been dropped 1.5 inches. All the stuff is available at BMR.

Feathering the gas on a 700rwhp car will still smoke a Viper...it's not like he's gonna be able to launch without some wheelspin either.

 

if you want to make power, the stock MAF setup is not an option. eiterh an aftermarket setup like highlander has ( ) or an aftermarket ECU

 

I think what I'm going to do is start with the back of the car and go forward as far as modding goes. I think I'll get a 12 bolt first, then a turbo 400 with gear vendors OD so I can still use the car comfortably on the street. Then after the suspension and drivetrain is well modded I'll start with the under hood mods. So should I get a FAST setup or something like that? I know nothing about that stuff yet.

 

I run fast, it works great. I think i might try the new gen 7 if I do another car. As for your question about 1000rwhp being able to beat a busa. That is easy. I can take modified busa's. My buddy runs 9.10's@150ish off the bottle and 8's@160 on the bottle. I can pull on him off the bottle at 21psi which is probably about 900rwhp. I never got to race him on the bottle but i would think 1000rwhp should be able to hang with him(25psi)

Im not sure how the scene is where you live but after awhile it sucks having the fastest street car around. The only time I get a race is when the trailer queens come out, which is rare.