I plan on running a built motor with a big turbo and probably alky injection in the future. I will probably never take this car to the track so it will be a 100% street car. I am thinking about buying the 18" ROH RTs in the chrome finish. To see why I want them, check out www.groupawheels.com. Check out the black WS6 in the ROH photo gallery. I think those wheels are very nice.


I would like to get north of 700 rwhp out of this setup but I do realize that traction is going to be a very major concern. Is there anything I can do to a 700rwhp car with 18s on it to make it handle decently on the street without crossing lanes and smacking someone under WOT? Or am I going to need a different set of wheels and tires for when I want to race? I guess I have a dilemma here. On one hand I want the car to look awesome with those 18s and on the other hand I want to stomp the crap out of the Viper sitting next to me at the red light. Please give me your thoughts.
FLeX

 

So, are you trying to maximize straightline acceleration on the street, or are you trying to make the care handle well through corners?

 

Oops, sorry I didn't make myself clear about that. I want straight line performance only. The car will never be on any type of track, straight or curved. Thanks.

 

not a chance in hell that you will get any traction on the street with 700RWHP I don't care what tire you have. I have 315 Yokohama AVS tires on my TA if I hammer it at any speed on the street it just does a nice smoke show. My Low 11 second SS is much faster on the street I can get traction with Drag radials if I work the pedal just right.

Jeff
96 SS BLOWN
96 TA 396 D1

 

Sorry that I'm still wet behind the ears about this stuff but could I run more than one tune? IOW, if I want to go out to a deserted road with my slicks on and test what the car can do, can I use a tune for that and another tune to around 450 rwhp for the street or something? I've heard that you can get tuners such as PCMforless and Madz28 to program more than one tune that way you can load which one you want. I know that I could simply turn the boost up and down but I'm curious about the tune also.

 

In that case, I would get a 24mm rear sway bar from a third gen. If you want to stay inexpensive, get some LCA with poly bushings, as well as some LCA relocation brackets. Put the rear of the LCA in the bottom hole. This will pre-laod the rear axle. These two mods will make the car more squirly (sp?) when taking turns as the rear will try to steer itself. To balance out the handling a little, I would suggest getting the 35mm hollow bar from HERE to balance out the handling a little.

Also, get a shorter torque arm to put the power down better. You can run with Nitto drag radials on the street, as I've heard they are good in water as well.

Also, maybe get the eibach drag kit with the air bag to pre-load the rear as well. If you don't have SFCs, get some (weld-in). Other than that, sme QA1 shocks would help out as well.

That's all I can think of for now.

 

You can kill some power with a conservative tune, but not from 700 down to 450 hp. If you adjust the boost, you'll have to change the program to match.

 

you can just a turbo setup from 450 to 700hp with the same tune, I ran anywhere from 500rwhp to 1000rwhp with the same tune.
hp
To answer the orig question, its all about tires. run a BFG or nitto DR, and it will hook up fine. even with 700+rwhp, my 315 nitto DRs hooked up nicely on the street. It could of course spin them, but nothing that wasnt controlable.

do NOT put a thicker rear antiroll bar on, nor any rear control arm with poly bushings, these will only hurt grip. if you are in a perfectly straight line, it probably wont hurt much, but as we all know you have to turn at least somewhat sometimes.

I would reccomend the LCA lowering brackets, tho they have nothing to do with "pre-loading" anything

 

Jordon, help me understand this. I have not tried this, but my theory is: with the stock computer, you have to use the PE table to add fuel once the MAF max'es out. With my 550 rwhp set-up, my MAF is maxed out by 5000 rpm. From there, I add up to 30% more fuel because the computer can't "see" the added air beyond 511 gm/sec. So, if you were to use the PE table to add fuel beyond 511 gm/sec, the computer is basically running like speed density and can't "see" any changes that happen in the 511+ gm/sec range. It seems to me that if you tune for 1000 hp, then turning it down to 500 would result in a waaaay rich condition.

Mike

 

While I always suggest LCAs with rod ends, if he only plans on putting the power down in a straight line, LCAs with poly bushings will still be better than stock.

I'm not understanding why you would say not to put put on a thicker rear sway for a straight-line application. The increased rear stiffness will help keep the car in a straight line. Also, having the lower control arm mounting point lower in the rear does put a pre-load on the rear axle. It also causes the car to have rear steer, so if he's going to be concerned about taking turns, he should keep the LCAs level, or SLIGHTLY lower in the front.

 

you could use the lackwood lift bars and adjustible torque are the lift bars work great i have them and my buddy with 97 comp t/a supercharged 315 bf drag radials that combo works well for his car mine hooks good to and i have 285/40/17 yoko avs sports

 

I saw a Z06 with 18" B.F.G. Drag Raidials pull a 1.5 foot tall wheelie(exellent track prep.) These tires had a very short side wall. I like my rod ended (both ends) lca's and pan hard bar. But lubing them would suck on a daily driver.

 

I thought the lift bars weren't effective on 3rd/4th gens because we have a torque arm setup?

 

they work great on my 94z a4 and on a 97 comp t/a supercharged helped more than any thing i had tried or the guys i know with 3rd and 4th gens you can fell the diference in how it pulls tires dont let go very easy

 

It all depends on how the car is driven, and whether or not you are a good driver.

And yes, with a turbo and the right boost controller, you could bring boost in slow enough to get good traction.

I ran my car at the track, and on the highway with stock tires @ 850+rwhp.

Yes there's tirespin, but once you get used to it, it isn't hard to drive/manage.