Those with Eagle Forged H-beams inside!
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,082
From: San Juan PR
I found out... they are 8740s... so... they will be replaced... the reality is that I decided to remove the engine while jacking the car and for some reason it slipped to the PAN and it dented the pan a WHOLE LOT! so... now that the engine has NOTHING but the shortblock on the car.. I guess I have an excuse now to remove it and send the pistons to ceramic coat.. but I guess I will have to REBALANCE the whole rotating assembly.. I will weigh those rod bolts at school to check them out if they are the same weight or not.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 293
From: houston, Tx
Re: Those with Eagle Forged H-beams inside!
The standard and huge 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts that come with the Eagle H-Beams are dramatic overkill and will not break probably ever unless you do something wrong. These are also run on the large big block chevy rods with great results too. On the small block stuff it's total overkill bt a little insurance too.
I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!
I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 834
From: Fernandina Beach FL
Re: Those with Eagle Forged H-beams inside!
Originally Posted by racer7088
The standard and huge 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts that come with the Eagle H-Beams are dramatic overkill and will not break probably ever unless you do something wrong. These are also run on the large big block chevy rods with great results too. On the small block stuff it's total overkill bt a little insurance too.
I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!
I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!
Wow
2 year old post brought back to life!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,684
Re: Those with Eagle Forged H-beams inside!
It takes about 3 torqueings with the moly to get rid of the friction and obtain the right torque, or use the stretch gauge which is better in my opinion.
Some torque wrench experiences:
At work, we have a metrology department that has a Snap-On torque wrench tester. I checked my torque wrenches on it, and the Sears Craftsman ones were +-1# across the range which was a pleasant surprise, but the cheaper Made in Taiwan one that I use for wheel lugs was light by a 8-9# at 100# (I re-calibrated it). My Proto was dead on as was my dial recording one which I use on rear ends. The guys at the local speed shop who are machining my engine block gave me their expensive-as-hell Snap-On torque wrenches to check out. One was light by 3# at 50#, pretty close at 100#, and 3# heavy at 150#. The other was 3# heavy at 50#, 6# heavy at 100, and 9# heavy at 150#. These wrenches had been calibrated by Snap-On within the year.
Anyway, this is one reason that I am assemble my own shortblocks and using a stretch gauge on my rod bolts.
Some torque wrench experiences:
At work, we have a metrology department that has a Snap-On torque wrench tester. I checked my torque wrenches on it, and the Sears Craftsman ones were +-1# across the range which was a pleasant surprise, but the cheaper Made in Taiwan one that I use for wheel lugs was light by a 8-9# at 100# (I re-calibrated it). My Proto was dead on as was my dial recording one which I use on rear ends. The guys at the local speed shop who are machining my engine block gave me their expensive-as-hell Snap-On torque wrenches to check out. One was light by 3# at 50#, pretty close at 100#, and 3# heavy at 150#. The other was 3# heavy at 50#, 6# heavy at 100, and 9# heavy at 150#. These wrenches had been calibrated by Snap-On within the year.
Anyway, this is one reason that I am assemble my own shortblocks and using a stretch gauge on my rod bolts.
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