The pump is not a 60 psi pump. 60 psi is the factory setting... you think I'm making stuff up. Pressure is important, that's why this pump is capable. Have you ever seen it, it's a hefty pump?

Do you really need an accumulator for an alky system? I don't see what that has to do with a diaphragm style pump but is it necessary on an alky system??? I'd like to know more about that.

Oh and it seems to me that turning alky into a tool to narrow the gap between race trim and street trim was pioneered by the gn crowd. I'm sure it existed before but I believe they were the first to sell kits on that scale.

I was not trying to come off as being defensive but I don't appreciate when ppl come to post on a subject and deviate from the original purpose of the thread to tell me that what I'm doing is wrong when in fact it is right. That's all...

 

Gentlemen..cant we all just get along

The facts are.... well.. the shureflow pump will make over 300 PSI with the pressure switch bypassed. The factory rating is 60 PSI, but typically run at 125-150 PSI. It can supply enough volume to feed any setup you can throw at it. Pressure is easily adjusted by turning the set screw on top of the pump.

The turbo Buick crowd has been using this exact pump for straight, mixed, you name it for years now. Years not weeks or months. It is the best pump that can be bought for an alcohol/water injection setup

I'm a newbie to this pump at 6 months now..run 11.60's on 93 oct 26 PSI boost..100 percent untouched motor from throttlebody down to the oilpan..only changes are bigger injectors, thermostat, and turbo. Period.. The stuff works..

I switched out my SMC kit becuase it wasnt delivering enough volume, and got tired of the pump connectors on the bottle going bad(not firing) along with the sticking float issues..let alone wasnt methanol compatible..but thats another story.

Back to the original question, best is to mount the pump where fluid will gravity feed it if possible.. On my car its mounted under my battery tray..its out of the way..and gravity fed. Also give yourself a few inches so you can put a filter inline before the pump. Sometimes where you cant see it is a better place..

The old saying..measure twice..cut once applies true..

 

you damn right it will make big pressure! I destroyed a couple pressure gauges when I was first building my system with this pump. The gauges went to 300psi.
I currently run my system at 140psi with 20gph flow with a drilled out 15gph McMaster mini nozzle. Atomization is VERY good.

My system is operated with a simple wot switch since my motor operates from 4700-6100rpm at wot because of converter stall. Boost only varies from 10-14psi in that operating window. I use a bypass return system with a bleed jet to control pressure instead of the built in pressure switch.
I still make use of the pressure switch to light an indicator light to let me know the pump is on when I go WOT.
To make up for the steady state alky flow, I simply adjust the PCM PE tables to ramp up with rpm to keep the A-F rate constant.
From an off state , it will build full pressure and flow within 1/2 second. Everything is plumbed/mounted close to the point of injection. So there is no need for me to keep the lines pressurized or the need for a solenoid for quick response time.
I have used the pump for 2 years now.

Bottom line, It's quite a pump IMO.
I run a supercharged 98 TA with 348ci ls1 at around 14psi with no intercooler.
Steve

 

Hey guys, If you dont mind me asking how much does a setup like this cost you? I know absolutely nothing about alkohol inj. I have always had aftercoolers and race gas. I would like to know more as this might be the way to go. Anybody I should call that can explain how this works and what would work best for my setup? I need to do something like this as I have a 357 ci, 16-19 psi w/ No aftercooler.
Scott

 

You're engine would love alcohol... a progressive controller for a supercharged engine with your amount of boost would be perfect. www.alkycontrol.com, check it out, give him a call. He will tell you everything you need to know. And trust me a well built alky system is way cheaper than any inter/after cooler you buy.

 

Thanks 96 Ws6, I will give them a call Monday.
Scott

 

Nahh it cant be..its only a 60 PSI pump

I do question your WOT tactic.. I understand your reprogramming..but alcohol injection works better under load..not rpm. And your boost also runs up with rpms..not that it doesnt wok..many ways to do this stuff..

Lastly..lesson learned, spraying too much alcohol too soon will drop your 1/4 miles times big time..2-5 tenths..so metering is an issue. tho..too much alky on the street can be beneficial so the tires arent blown away ..but this is hit-n-miss.

 

How much will a kit like this cost?
Scott

 

Call the man and talk to him. It depends really on what you want. if you use a progressive controller for the pump it's 200 dollars, standard controller is 130, a hobbs pressure switch is 30 bucks, and a microswitch to engage the alky at WOT is a couple bucks from radio shack. Call him, talk to him, and learn. It would be best to use at least a standard controller as it will making testing and tuning the system a lot easier because you can make a run, turn the **** and make another run instead of having to go the engine bay and adjust the switch/pump pressure to get it perfect. You can make a kit for as cheap as 150 bucks.

 

I am going to contact him on Tuesday.
Thanks
Scott

 

Basically your right about load. And I have the highest volume of alky flowing at the highest loads with my system. As rpms climb and the motor passes peak TQ, less alky is needed and by way of the non linear mechanical injection, less is consumed by the engine as rpms climb.
Since I use a faily large amount of alky I tuned my PCM to compensate for this.
I have an in car wideband I use to dial it in as well as plug checks.
I have tried from 1-4 nozzles, various alcohols and blends and have tried hobbs switches activated by boost. I even tried a boost powered 100% methanol into the blower inlet system.
I am not new to alky injection .
An automatic supercharged car is very easy to setup. It's nothing like a turbo car.
I finally ended up back where I started with a single nozzle, a lot of pressure and a simple wot switch to activate. The KISS rule.
I use 50%/40%/10% water-methanol-acetone as that has showed the best power on my car thus far.
Steve

 

I was thinking if I used my stock washer fluid reservoir to duplicate the kit I just made myself would anybody be interested in buying it? I'm going to post pics when I'm done I think this project turned out really good.

 

We need lots of pixs...