Ok, so here it is assembled on the floor, do not mind the "dummy" turbocharger



Here's the 2.5" merge and the full 3.5" downpipe



Downpipe routing at the back





I've got 30 miles on the setup, still need to solve some minor problems, fab up a radiator cover, flex couplings in the crossover tube, etc.. but the power rush when boost kicks in, even at 5 psi, is unbelievable...

 

Excellent work! Looks like you have a 46mm gate. Did you have to delete the ABS?

 

yea we gots these small rods that are actually designed to weld to broke bolts to extract them... so i put the power down to like 35 or so and BAM looks like someone TIGed it together LOL. our MIG is a piece of crap so i dont even bother trying to learn how to MIG.

REALQUICK uses JB weld.. LOL j/k

 

Sometimes it looks like it!

 

Thanks Jon I did all the fabrication with the help of a friend, it was a LOT of fun, I still carry some burns and cuts on my hands LOL! The pipes on the pictures are just tacked together with TIG, but the finished product looks a lot nicer now.
Yes, it is a 46mm CC (cheap chinese) WG , but works flawlessly so far! The ABS had to go completely, and had to relocate the fusebox as well.

 

Jon, how did you get the v-band flanges to line up without a flex coupler? I've tried to weld them in place a houndred times, but when the welds cooled down it would always distort the pipes, and the flange surfaces would not be flush on both sides..

 

Exactly right on the shifting! What I do is tack everything together and bolt all the clamps tight. Then I weld most of what I can reach right on the engine stand. I usually leave one vband per set tacked, so I can fully weld the other, and then I rebolt up and weld the tacked one as much as possbile while bolted together and on the engine. I have had to recut and reweld due to shifting. I was criticed on another board beacsue I had some "big welds". Those welds are due to me welding in precarious positions and such inorder to ensure the vbands wont move. Then when I take them off for the finished weld, I go over the old stuff. People dont understand how tough it can be when you dont use jigs

 

When I did my kit I tacked everything together with a Mig, then finish welded everything with a TIG. I had no problems with anything moving, and even used this method with my headers. I do have to say I finished welding my headers completely before making any of the down pipes though.

 

Where did you get all your piping to do it all? I am looking to do the same, almost same set up but I have a 383. Also what kind of fuel system are you using? I was looking at the A-1000 pump, but wasn't sure if it would be enough cause it said 800hp for forced induction cars. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks alot,
Greg

 

Realquick could you have rotated the dp back 45 degrees or did you go under the sway bar for another reason.

 

Greg, I get my piping from here:

http://store.racing-solutions.org/

For fuel system, dual walbro intanks should handle it fine.

 

If you look at some of the pics from directly in front of the engine, the DP wouldnt have swung by the header collector. I could have gone over the swaybar, dipped down under the collector, and then gone backup but I would have needed a tight radius to get back up. I preferred to go under and have larger smoother radii on my piping.

 

Agreed! he has been such a tremendous help with this whole thing ( the kit is mine) hehe and sorry for taking so long to respond i work long nights so im rarely ever on here but hey i gotta pay for the bills and hobbies some how right? Like i said this is some of the best work ive seen and ive been looking at various setups for years im very happy with the way its shaping up hopefully itll shape up the way i want on the strip and the dyno If anyone is interested or has any questions on turbo setups this is the man to talk to and various other board members that have helped me shape the project into what its is today