UPDATE! She's running on all 8 now (Freakin finally). My next problem, keeping it straight on the road. Every time it gets into boost, it starts spinning and the rear end tries to come around.
It's hard to tell what the boost level it's getting to and at what RPM when it comes into boost so quickly and the tires start spinning at 50mph. Plus, shortsighted me... I put the boost and A/F gauge down on the console so they look really pretty. Too bad you can't see then while driving cause the farking shift **** is in the way. Lol... Pod on the column, coming up.




Anyone have some 30 to 4x pound injectors laying around in good working order?

I'm trying to get my motor figured out and after reflashing the tune literally 25 times, it still runs like crap. The 4 cylinder rental car I just turned in yesterday could smoke me in any racing venue, 1/8th mile, 1/4mile, you name it. It's not the turbo setup. It runs like exrement from idle on up, even with the turbo disconnected and just running Normally aspirated. So in a process of elimination, I wanted to swap out the 60# mototrons and put in a known good set of smaller injectors. I bought these mototrons used and I don't know if they have issues or not. I've checked the rocker arms, the plugs (all showing rich). I've checked the AFR with my wide band and it shows a tad rich at 13.1. If the injectors don't fix it, then I'll start replacing the LS1 coils to see if one of them is bad. It is really weak in power. Almost like it's running on 6 cylinders. A couple of times I've edged up into the boost of 1 or 2 pounds but that just makes it run even worse.
What it does is buck and run very unevenly.

 

I dont know tooo much on tuning turbo cars but isnt the A/F suppose to be love like 11.5-12.0?? My car N/A runs around 12.6.

Jay

 

Under boost, yes. This AFR I'm referring to is at idle. I'm wondering now if the engine builder used the wrong method on degreeing in my cam. LT1's are different since the cam drives the fuel injector and spark events. I seem to vaguely remember someone saying that you could cause some problems by degreeing in the cam the same way you would a old SBC.

 

Dave, did you try running in open loop (ignoring the O2's)?

 

Hey Jon! How's it going?
Yeah, I've tried open loop, closed loop, speed density, on and on. Sometimes flashes with Bryans flash and some data from my old files, sometimes flashes with my old file and some of Bryans data. But.. here's where I am now with it...
After flashing the PCM many more hours/times today with various degrees of success but always it ran like it's on 6 cylinders(new plugs, new wires, etc), I thought, "Man, this sux..... I wonder if those used injectors I bought were no good?" so I asked some folks here and locally (Houston) if anyone had some spares laying around just so I could eliminate that from the equation. A local guy (Brian Grimal, awesome guy) said he had some.
I pulled the spark plugs off my engine back last Thursday after getting the car off the transport. After going over to my buds house with the old plugs we were discussing how one of them looked notably cleaner than the other seven and wet. ?!! We discussed this revelation and he lent me one of his sets of coils off one of his LS1 Fbodies to test the coils as well. I also took a set of injectors he had. Seeing how testing coils is much easier than swapping injectors, I crossed my fingers and swapped the drivers side coil set first. Right off the bat, it started with more authority and idled smoother. I thought "Wow! It's ignition coils?". So I decided to take a quick drive. It was so much better but after about a block it was obvious, it's running on 7 cylinders. Holy crap! In one of my earlier posts I'd mentioned that previous to this, it felt like it was running on 6. It must have been! So, encouraged but puzzled, I drove back to the garage and swapped on the other sides coil set. Took a drive. Bah.. still on 7. And I mean it is a DEAD cylinder, whichever one it is. It doesn't occasionally hit. It's missing in action/AWOL completely. So back to the garage. I'm letting it cool down now. I'm going to pull the plugs again and have a look at them. I'm hoping one of them on the drivers side is totally fouled and all it will take is a new set of plugs. After I pull them, I'll lay them across the top of the valve covers, turn on the key and spin the motor over with my remote starter button to see if they spark or not.

 

just start pulling plug wires with it running.. you can easily tell what cylinder is dead that way..

if you have ls1 coils it should be a easy to do..

 

I already tried that. I suppose if the engine were running perfectly other than one cylinder, it would show up more readily. As it is, it's running on 6 cylinders. How it can chug along on 5 is a testament to the prowess of the computer management. Jeez.. this thing is kicking my *ss. Let me state what hardware I started out with last week..

Completely new forged shortblock put together by a guy that builds several of these for race cars.

New LTCC ignition system (still uses my stock Opti which was working fine), used set of Ls1 coils

Used 60# mototrons.

New Bret Bauer Cam kit

New Comp Cams lifters

New spark plugs

New plug wires

New pushrods

Prior Ported Lt1 heads

Custom Turbo tune by Bryan Herter of PCM4less.
=============================
Here's what I've changed in an effort to pin down what is making it miss on at least two cylinders.

2 new O2 sensors - result = no improvement

2 new sets of plugs - result = no improvement

Gone from Brians tune to a stock one and back in 29 reflashes to date-Result = occasional improvement in idle. Still misses when driving

Replaced all the Ls1 coils with ones from a working LS1 - result = No improvement.

Replaced the 60# mototrons with 28# from a buds LS1 - result = No improvement.

Rechecked the valve lash on the drivers side head. - = Result No improvement.

Took all the plugs out on the drivers side and laid the plug from that cylinder, using IT's own plug wire, on the valve cover. Cranked it over, they sparked just fine.

The last time I pulled the plugs, all the passenger side looked good, which is what the scanner was showing for O2 readings. The problematic drivers side had plugs that looked like the passenger side (clean) on cylinders 3 and 7. Cylinders 1 and 5 looked fouled. Given this revelation, I went and picked up new spark plugs and put them in. As SOON as I cranked it over, it was missing the very same way it was before I swapped the plugs! Thats when I swapped injectors. Imagine my disgust when after finishing that, reloading the turbo tune with the new injector constant, firing it up, as soon as it fired up, it misses the very same way. After getting it started and idling roughly, I went out to shake the wiring harness on the LTCC and coils to see if I had a wayward connection. No luck(except bad of course, lol)

I just called a rental place to rent another farking rental for a few weeks till I get this figured out. It's just sooooo weird!!! The passenger side is fine! It's getting fuel. It's getting spark. The valves were going up and down correctly when I was adjusting the valves. I can't think of what else it could be.

 

it shouldnt stall but you should be able to hear a diffrence.. one more cyl will be dead. the one that doenst make a diffrence when you pull the wire will be the problem..

have you tried running off the opti?

are you sure the plug wires are going to the right coils?

you sure all the injectors are getting power?


you might want to look at getting a crap box for 500$ i wouldnt have a turboed camaro without a backup car..

 

Thanks, yeah. I just went out and swapped the plug wires from 1 and 5 to each other. Didn't make one bit of difference. I expected it to back fire, etc. Nope! Jeez... what is it?

I don't have the stock ignition components anymore. The LTCC doesn't use the coil or Ignition control Module.

Yeah, the plugs are soaking wet with gas. The injectors are firing.

 

maybe your fuel pressure regulator is hosed ? do you have a pressure gauge on the car?

all plugs soaked?

did you check for vacumme leaks? brake kleen works good. just make sure you dont start a fire.. lol

 

I don't have a gauge yet. This payday. Only those two cylinders refuse to fire. They spark, but it's like they fire some other time. If they fired at all, you would think the car would constantly back fire. I've checked and rechecked the injectors wiring harnesses to make sure that they are on the correct cylinders. They are all as they should be.

 

your ltcc is probably hosed.. hook up the opti.. thats what i would do in your situation..


you might be able to hook up a timing lite to each wire and see where the coils are firing.. mark the balencer 0 90 180 270...

 

I've wondered about that. It's brand new. I'll email TurboBob and ask him if that's possible.

 

also if your opti is hosed the ltcc wont work..

 

Yeah. It's working fine for 6 cylinders. Lol