Doubt it.

 

There's not enough information to even make an educated guess. One would need to know head flow numbers, cam specs, details of the intake and exhaust used to even guess at the amount of hp. Also if any intercooling is being used and the type of fuel.

BTW: a 1000rwhp stock block small block is not gonna hold together very long. There's a reason the mega hp guys ditch the stock block. In the same vein, if you really plan on this much hp you will need to upgrade the crank and rods and may have made a mistake by going 30 over. The cylinders on a stock block are pretty thin. You are going to have ring seal problems and possible splitting of a cylinder when the cylinder pressures go as high as you will need to make that much hp.

Then there the issues of tranny, rear end, fuel system, ECU, etc. You are really barely touching the surface in the context of 1,000rwhp. Not to brag, but just to list my bona fides: I spend a lot of time on the dyno and have yet to see 1000rwhp in what I would call a street car. The closest I have yet seen was a custom made tube chassis car with a 572ci big block and a Procharger D3R. It did make ~1,000rwhp but ran on C16. Yes, it could be driven on the street and the owner does do that occasionally, but it isn't legal running on C16 with no emissions equipment. My own car is the closest to a true street legal setup (cats, unleaded fuel, mufflers, etc.) that I have seen running on unleaded and it's ~150hp shy of 1,000rwhp. It's maxed out in terms of making any more power without resorting to leaded race gas. If you really want 1,000rwhp for street use I'd suggest a big block. Figure on spending $60-75,000 or so.

Rich Krause

 

Don't believe that a T, YS, YSI or X trim will make 1000 rwhp on an LT or LS1 engine. It would probably take a XX or Z trim to do that. And, based on our experiences with our LS1, you would essentially have to replace all GM parts with high performance aftermarket parts and add new parts that GM never conceived of, and I mean "bumper to bumper."

 

How much easier is the 700-800 range? Can this be done using the stock LT1 block? I am most likely using the T-trim for sure until I finish building a turbo kit. Could I make 650-700rwhp on the t-trim and then just spray some on top of that? Also I hear the stock fuel lines have the potential to handle 750rwhp with maybe a dual 255 in tank or a single 255 in tank and a also an inline pump. Also will 50# injectors be fine with tuning to handle this sort of power? If not what do I need to do to use bigger injectors? Who would everyone suggest for suspension? I am leaning towards BMR and using a Wolfe 6 point cage in the car. Anything else I am missing let me know.

 

1. It's definitely not easy but you could make 700-800 with a YSI.
2. No.
3. You might make 650 with a T trim on a custom built motor, but you will need ~ Aeromotive 1000 pump and larger fuel lines.
4. 84# injectors would work.
5. Too many new suspension components are required to list here, but you should use a 10-pt cage.

 

1) You can make a lot more power with a YSi than a mere 800rwhp. I believe the YSi is capable of almost 900rwhp and a tad more. There have been guys in the 8s trapping 160+ mph with 3400 race weight, so that accounts to a bit more hp than that.

2) As Rskrause is implying.... You can make 800rwhp on the stock block... George Baxter did 1125 flywheel HP with a YS trim and a stock LT1. Obviously he changed his block after that (wonder why ) but there are some people that have made 800rwhp on the stock block, now how long will they hold is not sure. but its an option.

3) You do not need an aeromotovie 1000HP pump.. that pump is real crap IMO. Check out racetronix with their intank setup and a boost a pump it should give you 700rwhp no problems with stock fuel lines and stock fuel rails.. Ask rich, been there done it... And im on the same path... A dual in tank is the best option from racetronix and I am still considering the setup...

4) for one i agree, but you can use the 50# and a superfueler.

5) No real need for cage really unless you plan on following the rules... Other than that.. the usual stuff... Torque arm (Spohn) Rear Control Arms, Shocks, Adj Panh bar... and the most important of all... SUB FRAME CONNECTORS.

One question though rich... how much HP are you making on pump gas????

There was a thread about the 1000HP mark... and a lot of knowledgeable people posted... Do a search there (as much as I hate saying that, because I hate when people send me to search) I just dont have the link.

My question to you 30th... Have you ever driven a 600rwhp car?

 

No I have not ever driven a 600rwhp car. I realize that is a lot of power indeed. I was at about 430rwhp in my car but it just didn't feel fast at all so I took it apart. Why does no one offer a stronger LT1 block for us? Like Dart or anyone else for that matter. I am splaying mine to a 4 bolt main and just trying to take every precaution to make this block as strong as possible. I want to stick with the LT1 instead of going with another SBC block just because the LTI is what came in my car and that's what I want to use for my powerplant. Anyways, what is the cost on the YSi kit? I think that's more than I want to spend right now and I will probably use the T-trim. If I do make 650-700rwhp and I can get my car weight to 3400-3500 with me in the car what kind of trap speeds could I expect with a good suspension setup?

 

After many times of wondering that and people like rich, mindgame, sstroker ace telling another thing other than what I wanted...

The idea behind changing the block means that you can use a MUCH better block and at the same time use MUCH better heads with an easier task than just "converting" which can be done.

With the T-trim you could get to the 650rwhp mark NO PROBLEMS...

LJ for instance trapped 9.99@139mph with 601rwhp on an S-trim...

with 650 i guess you could touch the 9.9@140mph mark too...

Im shooting for that nad i will strap in a new YSi.

 

Just to clarify that 430rwhp was on a 150 shot which is not listed in my sig. At the track the best I ever got out of it was a 118 trap at 850psi. I just couldn't get the bottle hot enough. On the street though I ran a heads/cam LS1 that traps 121 and at 1150 psi put about 2 car on him so I have driven a "decently" fast car for a while now. Not the fastest but fast enough to be considered fast by most.

i am only 18 which is partly why I am asking so many ?'s to you guys because I know you have been in my situation and most of you probably didn't have the advantage I do by having people like you to guide me along the way. I know it sounds like a lot of car for an 18 year old but I don't plan on just taking it to the track right after it's done. I plan to drive it for a while to get used to this new found power house until I feel comfortable going to the track where I will run drag radials until I feel confident enough to throw slicks under it.

 

It will not be too much car for you if you are wise and not crazy or stupid... Crazyness, stupidities leads to accidents... Even when you are not being crazy or stupid accidents happen.. If you "forsee" them... you prevent them.. if they are bound to happen you will have a lesser accident.

When I had 457rwhp I took a 447rwhp LS1 and just flew by him.. .dont really know how really...

Anyways... Get a 383 done nad strap in a T-trim with a set of AFR 210 heads... Mcleod street twin... lots of programming and you will have a low 10sec car. Check out engineermikes car

I took and beat a 10.6@131 rx7 by 4 carlengths even when he got a 2 head start with a worn impeller S-trim.. so my car must have been doing low 10s maybe... with slicks of course...

 

Anyways... Get a 383 done and strap in a T-trim with a set of AFR 210 heads... Mcleod street twin... lots of programming and you will have a low 10sec car. Check out engineermikes car

My motor is already at the machine shop having a 383 built. I am going to use the Trick Flow heads for now. Port them and see how they do. If I really don't like them I will switch them out down the road but for now to save some money I am going to use those. I was hoping I could get 140+ mph traps out of the car with a 383 and the t-trim with the right cam and heads. Cam Motion will be making me a custom grind once I have the heads flowed and call them with my set up.

 

It also looked pretty easy to us when we started out, but we've been down a 1000 rabbit trails and dead ends since then. Our advice for you is that you should anticipate that it will take a lot more than the parts you mention to build and race a reliable low 10 sec car.

 

You are going to need good heads... Which are the heads you have exactly... Do not skimp on the heads or you will need to raise a lot the boost, that will lead to detonation and the requirement of race fuel./

If you keep it off the track or off the slicks you will not need a rear end which will save you a few bucks...

Stealth... if I build it the second time, or a second car, I wont spend that much $ because I already know what I need to get the job done...

There are many things that I have done, redone and done again.. that costs $. that costs time..

 

If I could interject a recommendation: stay away from Cam Motion.

I went in for a cam recommendation (their shop is about 10 minutes from my work) just out of curiosity.

First of all, the shop is a tiny hole-in-the-wall in an older, somewhat industrial part of Baton Rouge. No spin-master, no dyno cell, etc. . . How do they optimize cams without this stuff? They don't.

He asked all the right questions, including, "what cam do you have now?" I answered 224/236, .605"/.593" lift with 1.6/1.52 rockers.

He said "That's .378" lobe lift with only 224 at .050! That's impossible!" I had to show him the lobes in Comp's catalog to get him to believe me. Needless to say, they don't offer lobes with ramps as quick as the Comp Extreme cams, nor do they offer as much lift.

Mike

 

I have heard of Comp giving people too much cam for their application. I don't know. This is honestly the first "negative" comment I have heard regarding cam motion but I will keep it in mind.

On another note as far as the heads are concerned wouldn't the trick flows cut it? They are 195cc intake runners right now and could be taken out to roughly 202cc I suppose and I would save a lot of money over buying AFR's since I don't have to pay for the porting Anyways I will make a list of the parts I talked to the machine shop about using as of now real quick.

Eagle 4340 Crank
Eagle H beams
JE dished piston (and have it coated)
Trick Flow heads ported
Custom grind cam (Cam Motion or Comp)
Either a T trim or may use an ATI blower because my buddy thinks he can get a good deal on a brand new one which would be nice.
Milidon caps (splayed 4 bolt main)
Lunati Timing chain set (any suggestions?)
LT1 intake ported to match heads

that's as much as I can remember right now though I am sure I forgot something.