I have gone through the costs involved many times. I concur that boost and stock LT1's don't mix. Get a 5.0 if you wanna do it that way.

From my calculations, you can make just as much hp RELIABLY by going with heads and cam and bolt-on's as you would by the time you buy an s/c all said and done.

- Brent

 

Heres the problem you always want MORE period. I did the heads and cam and my car feels slow, it was definately an improvement but still you just get used to it. If you are sure that you don't want a car much faster than you have now I would pass on the blower. But it I could do it all over again I think I may have bought it first....Even if your engine does go you can build a shortblock that can handle 9psi for relatively cheap. Less than you are paying for the blower if you do the work yourself.

I would not run the 9psi I would stay with the 6psi max I would take the good deal if it is a good deal, what are we talking 1500?? The Powerdynes are good but like I said you will always want more and the powerdynes top out at 6 or you can over turn them to 7.5.

You do need a fuel pump and the walbro is a good bet.

You SHOULD get new injectors either big ones or at least a set of 24 # SVO's if you don't want to mess with the tuning and use the FMU.

You run a risk of blowing your motor in any performance driving now if you have bad gas and knock and start doing redline runs your going to blow your motor with a blower (he he) But if you stay at low boost and take the saftey precautions (run rich, scanmaster, etc) there is no reason not to, now if you are REALLY afraid of blowing your motor leave it stock

Now with all that said it also depends on emissions....if I didn't have emissions There are some nice heads and cam packages out there that I might try before a blower......

AND TREY- The hot cam is not the "ideal" blower cam but it is not a bad one either there are guys running 500+ rwhp with 355 and blowers with that cam!!!!!

 

you can go 12s but you will have a crap mph, if you want something like that go buy a mustang or a gtp

 

LOL are you making fun of my mph Actually that was my best ET I've had much better MPH. I think there is something to be said for those bolt on 12 sec cars like the one in GMHTP this issue. That TA is no Joke makes me want to gut my interior

 

almost everything feels slow to me

I need a 9 sec daily driven car

 

im not makeing fun of it

if you like the track then I am happy for you

I run on he street so I am looking for mph thats all. we all enjoy dif aspects of our cars

my old stock long block went 13.3 at 107

as far as blower on stock motor why the hell not just GET TUNED

 

Crap MPH huh? How about 4.10s and bolt ons going 108 MPH in 90 degree summer heat and Texas humidity? It's not John Force MPH, but what should be about a 110 MPH run in winter isn't too crappy. Just my opinion. I'm looking for 12.50s on some slicks in the next few weekends without digging deeper into the engine than roller rockers. Plus, the way the car is set up, it Gtech's the same on the street as it runs at the track.

 

An intercooler would be nice, but figure on 500-550 being the iffy point for an LT1, at least you'll be keeping the RPM down though. Enjoy the torque gain, dont go too nuts hoping for 600 HP on a stock bottom, JMO.

http://para.noid.org/~lj/Boom3/Boom3details.htm

Injectors, and probably a new fuel pump should be considered, and watch your tuning of course 6psi shouldn't be too tough to tune.

 

I CANT EMPHISIZE STRONGLY ENOUGH-

GET SOME GOOD ****ING TUNING

 

hey if you like ets then fine.
I race on the street, driveing to work whenever.
if i wanted a track car i with a good et i would be driveing a mustang

 

12 seconds is still 12 seconds, the guy with the "hookup" is going to win from stoplight to stoplight (of course we dont street race though do we).

 

Just to give you an idea of cost. I'm paying $4000 for the p1-sc w/ 2core, installed and dyno tuned. Not including the BTM, gauges etc. GL! Trey, did I say tuned. LOL Should run nice.

 

I'll move this to the Forced Induction forum.

I run a Vortech S-Trim blower in my 94Z which is internally stock. While I think 6 or 7 psig can be done relatively safe (odds are on your side) no blower on an LT1 can be considered completely safe IMO. What I always recommend to people is that if you are putting a blower on a basically stock LT1 then you should have money in the bank for a rebuild the day after the blower is installed... just in case.