ok great, is powerdyne a bad brand? should i have bought somthing else?
i dont think the belt is broken either, i think it is a fuel problem and i am awaiting the fule and boost gauges.
thanks ed

 

Hmmm, the boost retard was NOT included in my kit nor anyone else's that I know of ....are you sure about that? The ignition was the Crane HI-6 that is capable of retard, yes, however, they did not include the TRC-2 timing retard unit with it.

If in fact you do have the TRC-2 hooked up, how much retard do you dial in? If you dial in the max, if I remember right you can take out as much as 3* timing/lb boost ....which would leave you with 18 degrees less timing on a 6 PSI kit, majorly killing power. Also, I've heard stories of those things being wired up wrong and taking tons and tons of timing out....a stretch but a possibility. For reference, you probably want to dial in about 1* or a touch more on that thing.

I also strongly suggest you either get a Scanmaster or logging software. It's really important to know you're getting 900+ mv's when on the throttle hard, with no knock retard. If you don't at least periodically monitor these things you're really asking for it (cracked pistons).

 

i dont thik i have one, i looked at the site where i got it form and it was only the fule pump recalibrater. ed

 

There are a lot of jokes that fly around here about Powerdyne. Honestly it's a pretty good blower for mild street use since it's quiet, self contained, easy to install and tune for, good solid power gain, etc. But if you're looking for anything more than a 100 rwhp increase it is not the blower for you, and it has to be maxed out to see that much. It has some quirky little issues like poor fitment of up-pipe to discharge tube, lack of spring loaded tensioner, easy bearing failure if belt overtightened, easy internal belt failure if blower over-pullied. There are other pesky issues like the tiny filter included in the kit, the crappy Crane ignition system, the ridiculous flex tubing, etc ...but these issues are common to all sc kits. The biggest downside to it is lack of upgradeability (being addressed in early stages at this point though) since it runs out of efficiency when pullied too high and doesn't have an intercooler option. If you are content with 350 - 450 rwhp though it will work out fine once you get the little bugs worked out, there are bugs with practically any sc kit though. Vortech is probably the best brand based on what I've observed in here, and Procharger is better now than ever. Powerdyne has done very little to improve their product or try to upgrade, it is just a very simple blower that's not intended for seriously high HP levels.

I plan to eventually upgrade to a Vortech S-Trim with Aftercooler at 9 PSI, my engine has been designed to take maximum advantage of 9 PSI on pump gas. My Powerdyne is being rebuilt with better bearings and a stronger Kevlar internal belt, and has been pullied up considerably. It should make about 6.5 - 7.0 PSI on this built motor (not so shabby really) when I put it back on. FWIW I think this car runs great, probably about 450 rwhp and overall it's very well mannered and streetworthy. I'm ready for more like 525+ rwhp though ...that's where the Vortech will come in handy when the time comes.

Definitely do some searches in here and ask questions before you proceed though. I dove into supercharging too fast too ...I wish I had researched some here before I had made a purchase but my timing and luck just weren't with me. It would be nice to already have the Vortech I'd rather have, rather than having to someday swap them out. Plus if I had it to do over again I would have bought a used Vortech, these kits are too expensive new to justify when they're availability/reliability is decent as used. All that being said though I'm still really happy with the way this thing runs with the Powerdyne on it, bottom line is it is a really fast car for being so mild mannered, not the fastest but faster than 99.8% of the stuff I come across on a regular basis

 

Your supercharger may be working just fine. Yes, my Z28 is fast now but when it was stock it ran a 15.3 at 94MPH!...PATHETIC! A 6 pound powerdyne would have probably posted a 13 second quarter at a low 100 mile an hour range. Some cars just run better than others. My old 93 Vette with LT1 ran 13.7 at 103 with no mods whatsoever. Both cars are automatics. The Corvette had 3.07 gears and the Camaro had the so called performance 3.23 axle ratio.

 

Once you install the guage, if you are getting boost, then I'd look into some gears and some street legal slicks. I was at a local 1/8 mile track about 2 weeks ago, made 4 passes (all with the tires heated up) the best was 8.26 and averaged around 8.32. I made one last run and when I backed up to heat the tires I forgot to turn the traction control off. I didn't get the tires heated up and I sat and spun for what seemed like forever when I launched, maybe it was forever I ran a 9.1 If you cant get the car to hook then nothing else matters. I'm about to install a few more parts next week and then it's time to order my wish list for the suspension. That's going to set me back about 1600.00, but it's like someone on here posted if you can't get that HP to the ground then it doesn't mean a thing.

 

hey guys, i just talked with the guys at powerdyne and they told me everything seemed to be hooked up correctly, they said the kit will give me roughly 100 extra horsepower to the ground and with a dyno tune, new gears, the boost and fuel gauges. i will be alot happier with the results let me know what you guys think
thanks ed

 

I think you need a boost and fuel gauge to confirm their findings.

You shouldn't need gears and a dyno tune to feel the difference. Your trap speeds are still low. How fast did you say you were going before the supercharger? You should really feel 100 HP at the wheels .. That's a huge difference.

 

the problems is i never ran it before the S/C, my mistake, im at 103 right now as soon as i get the boost/ fuel gauge hooked up i will be back on to tell you what ive found,
thanks ed

 

But you drove it before the supercharger right? You should really feel the difference, does the car feel different? Does it feel MUCH faster?

 

the car does feel much faster, in acceleration, i think it is more of a wore engine, it is 12 years old with 80,000 miles. i see a rebuild in the future. anyway i just bought a boost and fuel gauge, i got the mechinical fuel gauge so i cant mount it in the vehicle, did i make the right choice in getting this one. the electrical gauge was 200 dollars just to mount it in the car, i would rather tape it to the winshield before i spend all that money let me know what you think
thanks alot ed

 

The mechanical one can NOT be mounted inside the passenger compartment. You will have to mount it under the hood or tape it to the windshield .. They do make an isolator so you can run some other kind of fluid inside the car, but in mye xperience, they just don't work.

I got the electrical one so I could have fuel pressure inside the car, but when you waste money on your car like I do, another $200 isn't a big deal

 

Mine is mechanical and run to the interior. I think if you use the schrader valve it is much safer and that's how mine is set up, that was 5 years ago though ....I could be mistaken. I don't remember the danger of running a mechanical fuel gauge to the interior ever being brought up before, back when I was researching it. That's weird, because it does make sense that it's a little dangerous, especially in a really bad wreck. I'd have to dig through a lot of paperwork or dig around under the hood some to be sure, too busy right now. Now I'm concerned that I need to change to electrical, mine's right on the A-pillar with my boost gauge.

Man you guys trapping 83 mph in the 1/8 and 103 in the 1/4 definitely have a problem. Also if running 15+ before then something wasn't right to begin with or you're at extremely high elevation. An 80K mile motor should run pretty strong unless it has premature cam failure or compression loss, poor state of tune, etc. Back when mine was stock with 6lb Powerdyne and headers it could trap 88 MPH in the 1/8 on stock tuning with a timing retard. cj's might be a little slower due to automatic and no headers, but 83xx seems a little off though ...I would think 85-86 but not necessarily if at high elevation. 103 in the 1/4 isn't much better than stock, something has to be wrong ...you may be pulling tons of timing from detonation. Make a checklist to go through like the MAF being on right for example and connection of up-pipe to blower, use of timing retard, etc. Don't start assuming things.

 

If you are using the schrade valve, you still have to depress the little pin in the middle to get fuel to go into the line and up to the gauge. Unless you are running an isolator, you are now running fuel inside your drivers compartment. That's just not safe in my opinion.

 

Crap, not sure about an isolator. I'll have to ask my mechanic what he remembers and look over my instructions and what not. Thanks for the info. Does Jegs/Summit have these "isolators"?