http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Here's an example of a boost gauge, there are lots of different styles, but this is the basic thing you want. It reads 30in of vacuum and up to 15 PSI of boost.

As far as a fuel pressure gauge, there are a lot of different ones of those as well, when you select one, remember it is not safe to run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the car (this allows fuel to run into the drivers compartment, and in a crash, could spew fuel all over you and your passengers). If you get a mechanical one, you can hook it up to the schrader valve which is on the back of the fuel rails which are on top of the intake. Most people get a few feet of steel braided hose and hook it up to that and then run it to a safe place they can look at it. Soem people even just take it and hook it up and tape it to the windshield to do some testing then take it off when they're done.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I think this line kit has everything you need to hook up the Fuel Pressure Gauge OUTSIDE the drivers compartment.. Not sure though, you may want to ask the people at summit..

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

As the previous post says, if you have 6 PSI of boost, you should read close to 80 PSI of fuel. So, make sure you get a fuel pressure gauge that will read up to 100 PSI or so.

Get the 2 gauges, even if you ahve someone you can borrow them from for now, and hook them up, this will help with figuring out the problem.

Just a few more questions ...

You bought this kit new? Are you sure they sold you the "6 PSI kit" ? Do you have a receipt with part numbers on it? Who installed the kit?

Good luck,

--Sean

 

im almost sure it was the 6psi kit, i have the instalation manual i will check it to be sure, damn sure ordered it. i had a guy do it where i live, he says it is all hooked up right. he did all my add-ons. he said he builds drag cars and stuff.

 

if it is the S/C belt, does that mean its just the belt that drives the pully? or somthing on the inside? let me know ed

 

I used to have the 4.5psi Powerdyne. The easiest thing to check would be the actual drive belt from the crank up to the front of the blower. If this does not have good tension (a common problem with these units you will have little boost) You should be able to really feel that boost hit you and push you back in the seat at about 3grand too. Can you feel this??

A boost gauge as suggested would be a major plus. Not too tough to hook up either.

To answer your above question, THe powerdynes use an internal drive belt to spin the impeller. Very prone to breaking (I broke 2, hence no more powerdyne) If this is the case you need to send it off to be reapaired. FYI most higher end blowers use two gears instead of this crappy belt.

 

what do you think i should do? how can i have someone check if this belt is broken? this absoultely sucks, i hope it is fixable. i checked the belt tension it is not loose at all, pretty good tension.

 

Do you have any mechanical DIY skillz? I take it you did not install the blower?

Best I can say is pop the hood and you can see the belt running from the blower to the crank hub. Push on it. Does it have slack? As a reference do the same to your serpentine belt. The supercharger belt shouuld feel the same. If it feels good you likely have a broken drive belt.

 

no i didnt install it, but the tension was good, now what do i do, if the belt is broken? should i look in to a new supercharger? i have some mechanical skills but nothing to mess with the supercharger. let me know what i should do
thanks ed

 

DO all of the FMUs run at 8:1? Ive got an aeromotive boost referencing FPR and I only show like 48-49 psi on my fuel pressure gauge with my 6 psi kit.

 

Back to one of my previous questions.

Do you feel the extra power from the boost? I mean when I installed my 4.5psi I definately could feel it. And when I lost it I definately noticed.

I would buy a boost gauge-you need one anyway. You could jerry-rig the thing in less than an hr probably to tell if you are at least if producing boost if you honestly cannot tell.

Let the other guys talk you through the fuel issues b/c I cannot help you there.

If it comes down to repair on the blower, if it is relatively new (1 yr if I recall correctly) it is covered under PD's warranty. Its not hard to remove but you do need your stock intake ducting or a Cold air kit to revert back to normal induction. Hope you saved that stuff.

 

Jesus man, get the boost gauge .. It will make your life so much easier ..

The only other way to figure out if the belt inside is broken is to disconnect the MAF sensor, pull the air intake hose off the throttle body and start the car, you should get A LOT of air coming out of that hose.. If you do, then the blower is pushing air, if not, then it's not ..

 

will you guys stick with me while i order the boost gauge? i think i may order it tonight or tomrrow then install it when it arrives, you say it is easy to install? let me know
ed

 

i cant feel the boost, because the car is not being driven right now, im in new york its still march.

 

Aeromotive FPR references boost at a 1:1 ratio ....so the mid 40's you're seeing is ok cjmatt. You need to be seeing 900+ mv's for your O2 voltage in order to not be too lean though, not sure of the rest of your setup (injector size and programming, etc).

As the others said, you may be able to send it back for warranty repair if the internal belt's broken. Let's not jump to conclusions though, I would be surprised if it's broken already. Are you sure the discharge tube of the blower is connected to the up pipe securely? That is a very poor fitment and if someone carelessly hooked it up you could leak major, major amounts of boost at that point. This stuff is not hard to check out yourself at all, all you need is a screwdriver. Check the simple stuff first ...hell, as said, why not just take off the up pipe or TB elbow and just see if it's blowing air through it. Also, you should hear a faint whine as you decelerate from say 1,800 to 1,200 rpm ...just rev the motor with the throttle body lever and listen for the mild impellor whine as the rpm dies from 1,800 to 1,200 and then to idle. It's a quiet blower but it should be clearly audible with the hood up and listening for it. Your installer may have hooked the MAF up backwards too .....not so hard to do. Your car should trap 111-113 MPH with that setup. If you rebuild the blower, there are better options like a stronger Kevlar internal belt and beefier bearings.....I would let a professional do that if necessary, or let PD do it if it's under warranty of course. I'm hoping and guessing that you're going to find a simpler problem though, it's hard to tell what might be wrong at this stage. The external belt really needs to be pretty snug ....are you sure it's really tight enough? You should have about 1/2 inch of deflection when you push on the middle of the belt, or grab it with your thumb and index finger in the middle and twist it, it shouldn't want to turn any more than 1/4 turn without really heavy effort. If the external belt is slipping you should find rubber shavings on the cooling fins of the supercharger unit ...shine a bright flashlight on it and look. Keep us posted, I'm sure we can figure something out.

Edit: I just noticed earlier in this thread you said you're using stock plugs. Regardless of this problem that could be a problem in and of itself too. Stock gap is .060 I believe ...which is too much for a blower. Also, stock plugs are platinum tipped. Platinum can melt and cause detonation. I would strongly suggest Autolite 104's gapped at .035 ....don't worry about it, they're cheap as hell and work great. They are one heat range cooler than stock and are a copper plug ....much, much better for your application. That big .060 gap could be allowing the spark to get blown out. Do you have a multi-spark ignition hooked up? (not a big deal but helpful) Also, do you have a timing retard hooked up or a custom program? Very important, you don't want to use full ignition timing with a supercharger.....especially on these 10.5:1 engines.

 

Just saw this thread. I hope you got the boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge. Just an fyi: dont even bother running boost if youre not gonna get a boost gauge. The fuel pressure gauge is almost if not as important as the boost gauge. If you cant tell if your fuel system will support the boost, then you'll have no idea where to begin troubleshooting if problems arise. I suggest doing a search in this forum on running boost and do some reading. You'll come up with a million threads but do some sifting and youll come across some good reads.

 

Great point, the spark plugs should be swapped out. But make sure the supercharger is working and everything is connected too.