Long Question Sorry, but how much boost can you run on 92 octane gasoline? I would like to run a SC. I was looking at this engne from Nutek motorsports heres the specs on it:
383 Blower Engine $7899
Short Block $5249

This engine is designed for supercharged applications running up to 15 lbs. of boost. For higher boost levels, we recommend upgrading to the Racemaster crank, and Oliver billet rods. Also available with AFR competition ported heads at additional cost.

Parts

Callies Dragon Slayer forged crankshaft
Eagle H-beam connecting rods
J.E. heavy duty forged blower pistons
Federal Mogul rings & bearings
Nu-tek custom camshaft
Comp pushrods, & Pro Magnum rocker arms
Crane performance lifters
G.M. LT4 extreme duty timing set
Melling oil pump, pick-up, and shaft
G.M. oil pump drive
ARP head bolts
AFR hydra-rev kit
Fel-Pro gaskets
Nu-Tek CNC ported cylinder heads w/upgraded parts


Block Prep

Cleaned & magnafluxed
Bored & honed using torque plates
Splayed billet main caps installed
Align honed
Decked
Rotating assembly is balanced
Clearanced for 3.75" stroke
Rings file fitted
Cam bearings, soft plugs, and oil galley plugs replaced
Oil pan modified for 3.75" stroke
Assembled and ready for your accessories

Any thoughts or Suggestions? Any other places builds LT1 for boost like this? Is this over priced? Is this feasable to build myself for a first time builder? Would i save much neways if i built it myself? Am i retarded for posting this when i should be lookin at the STS Turbo set up?

 

The selection of parts sounds reasonable. How much boost you can run without detonation depends on more than just the fuel. The CR and cam specs have a lot to do with it, and the tune (as well as conditions) are also important. Under reasonable conditions, with a "typical" cam and a CR in the 8.5:1 range, with an intercooler and/or water injection, 10psi would be a reasonable number.

As far as "building it yourself", I guess that depends what you mean. The entire process of building an engine like this involves skills and tools that a "first-timer" clearly doesn't have. IOW, don't even think about it. I have access to some of the tools needed and easy access to friends who have built hundreds of motors, and I wouldn't do it, if that's any indication. It's not that it's rocket science, but engine building is a skill that takes a long time to develop and a lot of expensive tools. In any case, unless you are paying for a name, it doesn't even cost very much. The parts themselves are most of the cost and a shop can buy them for less than you can. Also, if the shop gets the parts and builds the motor you will have some backup if there's a mojr screwup. You do it and you are entirely on your own. You can't do the machining, because that is the task requiring the big, expensive tools. You can save bucks on the motor R&R, and that is within the realm of a "first-timer".

Rich Krause

 

Nick's a good guy and will take care of ya. Just don't rush him and bug the crap out of him 2 weeks after you order the shortblock. I'd rather he be in the shop working instead of fielding calls about "Where's my block? It's already been a week!!". OK, enough of that rant.

Everything looks pretty good. I don't know if you'll need the Hydra-Rev kit for a blower unless you plan to spin it to the moon. Otherwise you look good to go.

As for the daily driver...define a daily driver. If you mean something that you'll depend on getting you to work everyday, I wouldn't try it w/ the combo you said. If it's just a weekend play toy, you'll have no problems on the street, as long as you can accept some of the nuances of a high-HP car. Stalled traffic, 100* days and rough roads will quickly become your enemy.

 

Yea, I kinda want it for just a summer car, something i can drive on the sunny days of the year most likely 4 days a week. I choose the SC application because it seems feasable to drive it as a daily driver if needed. I was reading the STS trub thing too, that seems decent but who knows. So you think that this engine is to much for a regular driver? It wouldnt see much traffic, or 100 degree days as I am only in MN. If i bought the short block which i would if i got this engine, id prob make like 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression just to be safe, and run 10lbs of boost, should put me near 500hp dont you think? I dont know..I want some big # to be at my dispose if i need to punch the gas and have it daily drivabable..any other ideas?

 

All i have to say is look at my links and you tell me.

Claude and I put a ton of miles on our cars a year ...
I think Claudes round trip per day is (120 miles) that's 28,000 a year on a 15 pound 383 set up..


http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/mootoota

http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/maldo97

 

Wow pretty decent, how long have you driven on this set-up? any problems yet? what kind of gas mileage? what kind of HP? My main objective is to build a motor reliable enough to drive 200miles a week and obtain gas mileage near 15+ if i granny shift it (M6). While being able to hit 11's or 12's on a 1/4 mile on some 315 street tires and not worry about gas mileage. So in sense i could live in both worlds. I just dont want a fast *** car that i can only drive 1 or 2 days a week. that is pointless to me because i hardly ever go to a track.

 

I am getting about 25+ mpg (that’s if stay out of it and drive normal) I just got back from lunch and I have click off 250 miles on a ½ tank of gas. My friend Claude’s cars get about 18-19 mpg (his is an auto with a 3000 stall). If he had a tighter stall he would get around 19- 22. We have had no real problems . I did blow up a motor but that was not the fault of the blower (just a bad tune).

My set up is pretty straightforward …. Stock crank, rods (with arp bolts), forged TRW pistons (stock compression) stock heads (with arp head studs very important to run head studs becasue stock head bolt will stretch and cause a head gasket failure do not run a blower with out this) . I am running a 6psi set up.. Comp cam 224/236 at 114 lope sep, Mac dual cat headers hooker cat back (no cats) , super fueler, 24 pound svo injectors. I am thinking I should have some where around 400 hp to the rear wheels (my tune is conservative since the car sees street duty) .


Claude’s car id more radical then mine… as listed on his web site
383 LT1 Stroker Motor:Forged Eagle 3.750 stroker crank, Eagle H-Beam 5.7 rods, JE SRP Pistons, Clevite bearings, Oliver 4 bolt splayed caps, cc305 cam. (look at his web site for mor info )

Both set ups run great expect for the occasional opti blow out (LOL) but beside that we hammer the car on a daily bases with no really problems….. Just a suggestion is to keep on top of the oil changes and regular maintenance and you should have a motor that will last ….

One very important point: and I can’t stress this more make sure you get a good tune and that goes for any blower set up which is the key for a long and happy blower motor (trust me I learned the hard way). And chuck the fmu go with bigger injectors and tune with that instead (fmu’s suck and are not reliable).

 

sweet, so id definatly be ok with the engne i posted. now when u say tune it properly? did you doi this yourself or have some1 else tune it?? if you did, howd you do it?

 

I am the guy, Jim was speaking about with the supercharged
TA. I do have a 15# pulley on the car but because of the
cam, lower compression 383 motor, long tube headers (Basically Less Restriction). I was seeing about 10psi of Boost with the 15 pound pulley on my P1SC Procharger. Now that the weather is getting cooler 55 degrees instead of 80, I am seeing about 1.5 pounds of boost more. As for tuning, both Jim and I brought our cars upto Bryan at PCMforless tuning in PA and Bryan street tuned both of our cars. He did an awesome Job but I am sure there is more power if I put the car on the dyno and had Bryan retune it with Wide Band O2s. I will probably have Bryan Dyno tune my car later when the funds become available. But for now, having a Blown 383 that I do drive 600 Miles a week is BLISS.
And I do get ~14 MPG in city driving and about 18-19 on the Highway doing a consistant 78-82 MPH around 2500-2600rpms when cruising. So far, I have put about 17K on the new motor and about 12K of those miles have been with the Supercharger on the car. Total Mileage on the supercharger since the old motor and new motor has been about 35K miles without (knock on wood) any problems to it.

Hope that helps,
Claude

 

Did you build the motor yourself or buy it? what she cost ya? how much did the shop charge you to tune it?

 

The motor was built by a shop in Engine Shop in Delaware.
I actually bought the motor from a Member here at Z28.com (he goes by the name 2MCHPSI).
He bought the parts from Internet Racing Supply and had his Engine shop build the motor/clearance the block and desided it to sell it later but the motor was still new. All we did was install the cam, add new valvesprings to the heads and put the heads on the motor along with Opti, waterpump and etc.


Also, I have heard of a LOT of folks getting screwed by Nu-Tec So you may want to stay away from them. I think www.Cmotorsports.com is a much better option for you (they are good folks that sell quailty products too). I would expect to spend like 4G and up on the shortblock depending on how wild you go.

If you need a Procharger, Lonnie Pavtis at www.westol.com/lpavtis is the only person I use...His prices are great and his customer service is Unmatched in the industry.

Believe it or not, to street tune our cars...Bryan only charged 150 bucks a piece but that may have been because we showed up together which made it easier on his schedule.

Thx,
Claude

 

yes i built the motor myself for my car to save a few bucks if you would like a break down send me a private mess i did not want to bore everyone with the details (LOL)

 

Thumbs up for Lonnie. Not sure I agree w/ the Nu-Tek statement. I've had no problems from my 383 and the only people I've heard complaining were the guy(s) from Chicago.

 

Every shop will have a couple of unsatisfied customers somehow. I had a very good experience with NuTek. It did take a much longer time than expected but it turn out much better than what I dream of.

Your setup is very similar to my setup, which yielded a 611rwhp tuned daily driver. I had Nick build the whole bottom end for me, a fully forged 396 at 9.25 CR. He selected a custom grind Comp cam and installed bigger valves to my AFR 190 heads and flowed checked them. As Rich suggested it is much better to have a good engine builder do the bottom end for you. They, like Nick, will have over 20 years of building high performance engine and can do it much easier and tremendously better than us. Since you are paying so much for a good engine why skim on the most important part which is not that expensive either, for the assembly.

Then if you want, you can throw the engine and all the accessories into the car yourself to save cost. My uncle has two shops and we rebuild motors for over 10 years, but we did not rebuild this motor because we wanted to make sure everything is done right for high performance.

Good luck

 

mongse1 and ssr, i sent you guys a PM