super charge a stock motor?
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 625
From: oklahoma city
super charge a stock motor?
i have had a stock rebuild(i was stupid) like 10k miles ago, and i am thinking about putting a super charger on it and its a 6.5 psi. Do u think my motor can handle it and how much power do u think it would push. Also if i just put the super charger belt on only when i want to run it and cruising weekends do u think it should be good so i wont have the wear and tear on the motor from daily driving. 
I found it for about $1000 and its local so i am really tempted to get it.
I found it for about $1000 and its local so i am really tempted to get it.
Last edited by jamilz28; Oct 25, 2007 at 11:33 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,194
From: Albuquerque, NM.
If your just looking to do the part time thing, then it sounds like nitrous might be a better option for you. If your willing to spend $1000, you can get a nice kit with all the safety requirements and upgrades for that and it will probably make more power then 6#'s of boost would. Just something to think about.
Ken R.
Ken R.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 625
From: oklahoma city
the rebuild was completely stock it happened 2 years ago when i didn't know crap about cars and i will have to look at the papers that my dad has to see exactly what they changed. but it was siting for a month and i started it and the engine was knocking hard as hell.
i am not even sure if i should even go for it now that i thought about, i have alot of other things that i should mess with like my paint looks like crap. If i did end up blowing something up i would be screwed because its my daily driver and making 8 bucks an hour it would take forever to fix it. i am pretty sure i am gonna just stay with bolt-ons only intill next year then i would probably go with a mild cam.
i am not even sure if i should even go for it now that i thought about, i have alot of other things that i should mess with like my paint looks like crap. If i did end up blowing something up i would be screwed because its my daily driver and making 8 bucks an hour it would take forever to fix it. i am pretty sure i am gonna just stay with bolt-ons only intill next year then i would probably go with a mild cam.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 625
From: oklahoma city
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,182
From: Moore OK
I would say no on the daily driver....
And n20 only in small amounts.
The best mod for a daily driver, is another daily driver. Pick up an 85 accord for $500 so then you can work on yours more freely.
And n20 only in small amounts.
The best mod for a daily driver, is another daily driver. Pick up an 85 accord for $500 so then you can work on yours more freely.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,225
From: IN
We really need to make a sticky for this question as it seems it is asked ALL THE TIME with the same answers. If you do a search on it you will find much more of the same.
Basically stated; LT1's (and LS1's for that matter) are high CR with non-forged internal engines that do extremly well by staying N/A. But they are not made for boost from the factory, just like they are not made for Nitrous either. That being said, you can get away with a small amount of boost or spray on the stock motor, but when you are running it, even in moderation you are putting stress on your motor that was not meant to be stressed in that way. Even with 6-8#'s of boost with all the right supporting mods (fuel upgrade, ignition upgrade, intercoolers, methanol injection, dyno tune, ect., ect.) you still are going to be risking it. Some guys make it 25,000 miles before they need a rebuild, I know others that have only managed 2500 miles before they fried a piston. If you want to run boost without the supporting mods, you can pretty much garuntee a much sooner rebuild.
To have a reliable boosted or sprayed car, you need the built motor for it. This included lowering the CR, and getting some forged internals such as pistons, crank, ect. This costs a considerable amount of $. Furthermore, then you still have to spend thousands on the blower or turbo unit, and more money on the supporting mods I originally posted, not to mention at all building the rest of the car to take the power such as clutch/tranny, rear, driveshaft, or the suspension. To do it right, you really are looking at a good $15,000-$20,000 depending on the quality of parts you want to invest in to have yourself a reliable powerfull, boosted car. Most guys can't afford to spend that kind of cash, which brings them back to your original question of boosting with the bare minimums. Even if you roll the dice and go with the bare minimums and run low boost, you will see minimal gains, and still be out thousands on a supercharger, and supporting mods. Its more cost effective to just go with a strong N/A setup with a good set of heads and a killer cam combo. Or even if you want to risk it, then I reccomend going with the spray, as it will cost much less than going boosted would with the unit, and the supporting mods.
Basically stated; LT1's (and LS1's for that matter) are high CR with non-forged internal engines that do extremly well by staying N/A. But they are not made for boost from the factory, just like they are not made for Nitrous either. That being said, you can get away with a small amount of boost or spray on the stock motor, but when you are running it, even in moderation you are putting stress on your motor that was not meant to be stressed in that way. Even with 6-8#'s of boost with all the right supporting mods (fuel upgrade, ignition upgrade, intercoolers, methanol injection, dyno tune, ect., ect.) you still are going to be risking it. Some guys make it 25,000 miles before they need a rebuild, I know others that have only managed 2500 miles before they fried a piston. If you want to run boost without the supporting mods, you can pretty much garuntee a much sooner rebuild.
To have a reliable boosted or sprayed car, you need the built motor for it. This included lowering the CR, and getting some forged internals such as pistons, crank, ect. This costs a considerable amount of $. Furthermore, then you still have to spend thousands on the blower or turbo unit, and more money on the supporting mods I originally posted, not to mention at all building the rest of the car to take the power such as clutch/tranny, rear, driveshaft, or the suspension. To do it right, you really are looking at a good $15,000-$20,000 depending on the quality of parts you want to invest in to have yourself a reliable powerfull, boosted car. Most guys can't afford to spend that kind of cash, which brings them back to your original question of boosting with the bare minimums. Even if you roll the dice and go with the bare minimums and run low boost, you will see minimal gains, and still be out thousands on a supercharger, and supporting mods. Its more cost effective to just go with a strong N/A setup with a good set of heads and a killer cam combo. Or even if you want to risk it, then I reccomend going with the spray, as it will cost much less than going boosted would with the unit, and the supporting mods.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,182
From: Moore OK
Why did you have to bring up clutch? I put my mcleod single disk back in the car because I was in a hurry to get it running... It wasn't quite to the rivets.
Short of it is still no on a daily driver. If I had something else and could do a boosted setup for $1k I sure would try it. Nothing is ever as cheap as it seems though. Nuts and bolts and fittings alone can break the bank.
Short of it is still no on a daily driver. If I had something else and could do a boosted setup for $1k I sure would try it. Nothing is ever as cheap as it seems though. Nuts and bolts and fittings alone can break the bank.
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