Anybody running one?
My MAF based tune is not working at idle. In SD tune mode(and all else the same as the MAF based tune) it idles fine. Use the MAF tune and the passenger side is perfect, the drivers side is PIG rich at 160 BLM.
Even with new O2 and plugs, it takes 3 seconds to go to 160 in open loop and closed loop. The scanner says its Lean as can be but pulling the plugs shows the exact opposite. They are sooty and wet with fuel. The coolant sensor works fine. I've swapped o2's and the problem stays on the drivers side. So... I'm considering running SD fulltime and I have a wide band to fine tune. What I'm worried about is that some guys have written vague things saying something about the 1 bar being insufficient at anything above 0(zero) boost. At idle right now, the motor is showing a vacuum of 10/6x KPA.
If you have an LTx Turbo running SD, can you give me some ideas of what else you had to do to your tune beyond merely setting the SD flag in the flash file?
Thanks!

 

I am running an SD tune, unfortunately i lost my file on my computer somewhere (think i accidentally deleted it), but we couldnt get mine to work on a MAF tune either.

 

5-6 psi you can get away with running the 1 bar map. More than that and the car will load up with to much fuel at lower boost levels and sputter.

 

Load up with fuel? Why?

 

I'm not sure how your turbo is set up as far as exhaust but is there any way you could be getting fresh air into your drivers side exhaust bank? Could one cylinder be missing on the drivers bank? MAF or Speed density would affect both banks. It doesn't make sense that by switching to SD makes your problem goes away. Check for leaks or misrouts. You should be very careful with this because you can wash out your rings with that much fuel being added.

 

Just to be certain, I had already swapped the O2 sensors and the harnesses. Even my brand new wide band O2 setup shows that (left) side as Lean. But after spending all day, and I mean ALL day, working on it, tuning it over and over with my LT1 Edit. I found it actually is the way the hot side is configured. If you put the wide band in the RIGHT hand side, it reads accurately(13.3) . If you put ANY O2 sensor in the world in the LEFT hand side, it's going to read lean (17.x). Why? Because the Left O2 sensor bung is in the down pipe, not the left manifold. I'm guessing here but I suspect there is air getting into the V-Band that attaches the Downpipe to the Turbo housing. I actually got it to start and stay running (that itself is a HUGE departure from the unfortunate norm these past few days) by loading my OLD flash file. I'm sure this tune I purchased is fine for someone but my combo must hate it. With the purchased turbo tune, it bucked, spitted, backfired, got a ton of knock retard and wouldn't idle without paddling the gas pedal. After checking a lot of things and getting very frustrated, I thought, "why not just load you old tune? You got nothing to lose and you won't even get greasy on this one....". So I took the old tune that was for my solid roller cammed 383, set the injectors to reflect the 60# mototrons, bumped the cubic inches down to 355, uploaded the flash file and started it. Wow... it started w/o stomping the gas (clear flood mode), idles nicely and isn't backfiring, etc. Of course this tune would not be good for boost but hey, at least I can drive the thing to/from work now. I turned in my rental car. Farking $715. I have to get the Z28 road worthy. Tomorrow is another day of whittling away at the tune. I swapped tunes 21 times today. Taking a bit from the turbo tune, adding it to the solid roller tune, upload/evaluating it. I got about 6 tunes into it when I loaded the "Load versus Temp" table. This was the only table I modified for this test. The engine didn't like it. The motor seems to prefer more advance than the tables in the turbo tune provide.
The down pipe is contacting the frame of the car and thus introducing lots of Knock retard. I've got to address that tomorrow too.

 

I guess after flashing it 21 times you know by now that there is nothing wrong with your MAF tune that Bryan sent you. LOL. You need to get your left bank O2 sensor bung welded into the left bank airflow. Having it in the downpipe is giving it a false reading. You can buy round O2 bungs for about $3.00 and take it to an exhaust shop for the welding. If you must drive your car to work then set the "Temp to enable closed loop" to full max and run it in open loop until you get the O2 sensor fixed.

 

Thanks for the tip on the Temp/Closed loop. I'll check into the new O2 location. It's tight on that side but I may forego aesthetics and just have it put on top of the left manifold.

 

Most headers already have a bung for the O2 sensors. Not sure what kind you used.

 

These are RealQuicks hotparts I bought. Log Manifolds. They came with the bungs in these locations. One on the right side as it starts into the crossover. The other two are both in the down pipe. One is for the drivers side narrow band O2, the other for the wide band, if you have one.

 

Well I'm sure Realquick will jump in here. I'm no expert on turbos but I'm pretty good with the stock computer. You need to have the O2's in the correct location. Stock location is 2 in the headers and 2 behind the proper cats. 90% of the fueling is controlled by the front O2s. You can get away with deleting the rear O2's but fuel mileage and driveability will suffer on an OBD2 car.

Sequential Bank to Bank fuel injection is something the Carb guys pay big money to switch to.

 

I'm runnning OBDI in this setup. This morning, I took Bryans Turbo Tune, modified the Closed Loop enable to never happen, loaded it up and drove the car. It still runs like crap. The 4 cylinder rental car I just turned in yesterday could smoke me in any racing venue, 1/8th mile, 1/4mile, you name it. It's not the turbo setup. It runs like exrement from idle on up, even with the turbo disconnected and just running Normally aspirated. So in a process of elimination, I wanted to swap out the 60# mototrons and put in a known good set of smaller injectors. I bought these mototrons used and I don't know if they have issues or not. I've checked the rocker arms, the plugs (all showing rich). I've checked the AFR with my wide band and it shows a tad rich at 13.1. If the injectors don't fix it, then I'll start replacing the LS1 coils to see if one of them is bad. It is really weak in power. Almost like it's running on 6 cylinders. A couple of times I've edged up into the boost of 1 or 2 pounds but that just makes it run even worse.

 

Well if it still runs like crap in open loop then you probably have one or two cylinders on the left bank that aren't firing. Which would explain why you have so much oxygen in the downpipe but very little in right bank O2. Keep it in open loop until you get those cylinders firing and then your O2 sensor problem will go away.

 

You pretty much nailed it...
Here's something from a related post I just made...

I pulled the plugs back last Thursday after getting the car off the transport. After going over to my buds house with the old plugs we were discussing how one of them looked notably cleaner than the other seven and wet. ?!! We discussed this revelation and he lent me one of his sets of coils off one of his LS1 Fbodies to test the coils as well. (You may know him. His name is Brian Grimal). Seeing how testing coils is much easier than swapping injectors, I crossed my fingers and swapped the drivers side coil set first. Right off the bat, it started with more authority and idled smoother. I thought "Wow! It's ignition coils?". So I decided to take a quick drive. It was so much better but after about a block it was obvious, it's running on 7 cylinders. Holy crap! In one of my earlier posts I'd mentioned that previous to this, it felt like it was running on 6. It must have been! So, encouraged but puzzled, I drove back to the garage and swapped on the other sides coil set. Took a drive. Bah.. still on 7. And I mean it is a DEAD cylinder, whichever one it is. It doesn't occasionally hit. It's missing in action/AWOL completely. So back to the garage. I'm letting it cool down now. I'm going to pull the plugs again and have a look at them. I'm hoping one of them on the drivers side is totally fouled and all it will take is a new set of plugs. After I pull them, I'll lay them across the top of the valve covers, turn on the key and spin the motor over with my remote starter button to see if they spark or not.

 

Get a temperature gun!!!! The ones with the lazer pointer, it'll tell you immediately which cylinder is dead and you can buy them for about $25-35.

I tuned my turbo setup last year completely via the maf/PE at first. The tune worked great, evn up to 11.5lbs of boost. One day I had the maf start to freak out on me and the car would barely run. I got that taken care of and it ran great again, but I decided to create a full speed density tune so if my maf ever died again I would be able to unplug it and still drive the car.

I was running only 5lbs of boost on the wastegate spring and I can tell you, in the lower rpm(3500 or so), when I hit zero vacuum up to about 3lbs of boost it would go PIG rich, around 9.8:1 afr, then pick up fine after that.

I used that same tune, speed density when I first put together my turbo setup this spring, made a few changes, and ran 4lbs. Same problem, it would go pig rich at wot at lower rpm. I could've corrected this by pulling out fuel, BUT if I ever brake boosted and had 5lbs at that lower rpm, it would be LEAN.