I dont really know where to start...I think this is the second time I have been in this neck of the camaroz28 world. Ive been looking into a 383 build but betime that is said and done that could run quite a price. I was wondering what my options are for FI? I have a 94 z28 with just 100k...sadly thats what is really what is holding me back on really modding the hell out of my car. Ive read that FI is no good for the block with a lot of miles on it, but I need to figure out something to do. I was thinking of just rebuilding the block...no bore or anything...just forged internals, but I dont know how much this would take. I would have used the search feature, but I am to sure where to start. Any help would be great, thanks everyone.

 

Bore the block .010 or .020 or .030 over if you want to rebuild, stroke as you wish (it doesnt add a lot in cost in the long run). A rebuild is as good as what you pay for. Top of the line work and parts cost more, duh. An Eagle 4340 rotating assembly can be had for a good price, and you'll honestly spend $1500 in machine work to get it done right (also perhaps that might get you on the way to 4 bolt mains). Easiest thing to do is figure out how much power and how you want to make it. For example, a supercharger puts more strain on the crank snout where a turbo doesnt. Cams are totally different.

You could start with what you have and upgrade in stages. Perhaps get some new heads and a cam and play with that till you have a shortblock built, then bolt the better heads on and have some fun now?

I'd really reccomend considering your car is running, buy a stock shortblock for cheap and have it built, that way you have less down-time :-D And if you dont abuse your engine, you might be able to sell it for more in running condition after you pull it out.

 

Ya, I was thinking about buying another shortblock, but I guess with so many miles on my car, I really have no choice but to rebuild the block in hopes for anything. What kind of builds are good for forced induction?

 

I know that in these days of crate engines and plentiful aftermarket blocks, people disdain the lowly stock block.

But really, a well-seasoned block is a thing of beauty. New blocks aren't better than used blocks. It's just that aftermarket blocks are designed better from the ground up, so they end up being more desirable by default.

But when you have a well seasoned LT-1 block, even a two-bolt, you have a great foundation.

In the old days, you would just punch it to .030 over and hone with torque plates, running hot water through the block, then "balance and blueprint" it during the re-build. (There's a phrase I haven't used in years)
Just make sure it's line honed, and stud the bottom end, even if you leave it a two-bolt motor.
I have personally revved a tow bolt motor over 7000rpm, repeatedly.

The magic is in the balance. Build it light and build it right.


See... these induction experts... they like to talk about how the heads and cam are the most important part of the engine. and they're right. They're the brains and lungs of the engine.

But the assembled short-block that is the heart and sole.


So you go ahead and use that block you've got right now. They're stonger than you'd think.

 

Awesome Quote. I'm keeping that one.

The stock lt1 block itself is rather strong. There are of course things you can do to beef it up. But as was said, the stock rods and crank are pretty stout. The pistons are the weakest link in the stock shortblock (or old worn bearings). If you dont detonate, the stock rotating assembly can take a lot of abuse. Personally though, I say just find a good used block and start from there and keep driving it. I wish I could have done it that way, but my stock shortblock lost it's bearings. Doh! So I havent driven my car in over a year...

My thought is honestly that of overkill. I'd rather go an extra step here and there and get the extra insurance. Some guys took an lt1 and got like 580rwhp on a stock longblock with an underhood turbo kit and they posted a vid of it! ...And the death of the engine on that same dyno as they kept pushing up the boost.

That's a lot of power on the stock bottom end! It can theoretically take a lot of abuse and power, but like I said, if you dont want to worry about down time, start from another block and keep your motor away from boost.

My advice is do it that way not because of the blocks(or rather, the stock rotating assembly) faults, but mostly because I'd hate to see someone not get to drive their car for so long because of it. It'd be better to have a new one built and take a week to swap em IMHO.

 

Thanks for the help so far. Maybe I will just get a block and heads and such then leave it on an engine stand and wait until I can get fi.