s/c or turbo
s/c or turbo
which would be easier, more cost effective and more power would be seen with? i already have a full exhaust so i'd have to figure something out there with the turbo, would slapping a blower on it be alot easier because im already set up for an engine that can breathe?
Depends on what yourplans are bro. Pound for pound the turbo will make more power. But what are your goals...spend less, easiest to install, make more power...here check this out...if you go to yahoo.com and type in turbo vs supercharger you will get a bunch of usefull stuff...here
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=19 one of the many
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=19 one of the many
I would worry about getting your motor and the rest of the car ready to handle the power/boost before I would concern myself with your original question. But once you have invested the several thousands to make everything withstand the power level, then I would reccomend a Turbo as the power potential is a little greater, and most guys see faster times with Turbo's vs the Superchargers.
Depends on what yourplans are bro. Pound for pound the turbo will make more power. But what are your goals...spend less, easiest to install, make more power...here check this out...if you go to yahoo.com and type in turbo vs supercharger you will get a bunch of usefull stuff...here
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=19 one of the many
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=19 one of the many
my goal right now would be doing whatever is easiest, which i think would be a s/c. but would it be more worth it in the long term to build a motor up to handle boost and go with the a front mounted twin turbo. right now im playing with an extremely limited budget so this is a plan for maybe next year. how difficult is it to put a s/c on the car?
The BEST way to do it (and the only way IMO) is not a cheep route. You need to build the motor to handle the boost with all the forged internals, and lower the CR to a safe setting. Then, you'll still need all the supporting mods, as well as spending more on your car to handle the extra power such as the tranny/clutch, driveshaft, rear end ect. Depending on if you want to go cheep there and go with the cheeper parts such as Eagle, or Summit, or if you want it to be top notch and bullit proof and really hold up and go with parts such as Lunati, or Oliver will determine the final cost, but to do it right between everything spent you really are looking at anywhere from $14,000-$20,000. There is simply no cheep, or budget way to do it right. Thats why so many don't go boosted and opt for the spray, or stay N/A.
If you are on a limited budget, I would seriously consider waiting on this all together until you have enough funds to do this right. Almost weekly on this board someone asks "how much boost will the stock motor handle", or "whats the cheepest route to go boosted", the correct answer is there is no cheep way to go boosted. Your motor was not meant to take boost as it is from the factory with non forged internals and a high compression ratio. You can spend thousands on a supercharger or turbo, and then run a low boost setting (say 5#'s), and then spend thousands more on the supporting mods you'll need to keep it safe like injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulater, ignition, intercooler, methanol injection, dyno tune ect, ect. And then with a low boost setting, and all the supporting mods, you'll probably last for a while, but you'll be out thousands and not have much extra power, so its not really cost effective. If you don't do the supporting mods, or run more power, you might make it for a while as some will say they did or are currently, but I garuntee after enough time, you'll be looking for a motor rebuild. It might make it 25,000 miles, it might make it 2500 miles.
The BEST way to do it (and the only way IMO) is not a cheep route. You need to build the motor to handle the boost with all the forged internals, and lower the CR to a safe setting. Then, you'll still need all the supporting mods, as well as spending more on your car to handle the extra power such as the tranny/clutch, driveshaft, rear end ect. Depending on if you want to go cheep there and go with the cheeper parts such as Eagle, or Summit, or if you want it to be top notch and bullit proof and really hold up and go with parts such as Lunati, or Oliver will determine the final cost, but to do it right between everything spent you really are looking at anywhere from $14,000-$20,000. There is simply no cheep, or budget way to do it right. Thats why so many don't go boosted and opt for the spray, or stay N/A.
The BEST way to do it (and the only way IMO) is not a cheep route. You need to build the motor to handle the boost with all the forged internals, and lower the CR to a safe setting. Then, you'll still need all the supporting mods, as well as spending more on your car to handle the extra power such as the tranny/clutch, driveshaft, rear end ect. Depending on if you want to go cheep there and go with the cheeper parts such as Eagle, or Summit, or if you want it to be top notch and bullit proof and really hold up and go with parts such as Lunati, or Oliver will determine the final cost, but to do it right between everything spent you really are looking at anywhere from $14,000-$20,000. There is simply no cheep, or budget way to do it right. Thats why so many don't go boosted and opt for the spray, or stay N/A.
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