Running Rich & Crappy
Got the SS back together after ordering and installing the new ATI inlet tube (hard plastic). It fits pretty good and drops the inlet right down for the 90* elbow and MAF and air filter. Hooked all the hoses back up and fired it up, drove it around. It has some hesitation and general crappy off-idle drivability issues. Seems to handle WOT fine, 'cept for running rich (dark smoke) when blasting down the road.
I've noticed in AutoTap that my Sterms are trying hard to pull fuel (-37.5%) out and as the LTerms begin to take over, the car runs better when the STerms drop below -20% and can manage.
I've searched for leaks and loose hoses, but can't find any.
Any ideas? I plan on jacking it up and crawling under this weekend to fully inspect everything again.
I've noticed in AutoTap that my Sterms are trying hard to pull fuel (-37.5%) out and as the LTerms begin to take over, the car runs better when the STerms drop below -20% and can manage.
I've searched for leaks and loose hoses, but can't find any.
Any ideas? I plan on jacking it up and crawling under this weekend to fully inspect everything again.
Don't take this as an insult or anything, but in case you had the maf out, is it installed in the right orientation? Air should only flow through it correctly in one direction. Theres an arrow on the body of the MAF that shows direction of air flow. I believe if it's in there the other way, it will mess with the air flow readings therefore adjusting your A/F based on a false air flow reading.
Ken R.
Ken R.
Sounds like more of a tuning issue than an inlet issue. Do you have a good dyno tune done with the new inlet tube? If not, that could solve your problem right there (and would be a good idea even if you didn't have a problem). Also, make sure all your ventalation lines have been properly hooked up to the inlet tube from both the valve covers, and the opti. An open hole in the inlet tube can give you issues like the ones you are having.
Well I jacked the car up and inspected everything again. The MAF and all tubes were tight. Put AutoTap on again and discovered B1S2 O2 sensor is flat-lined at 440mV. The O2 sensor isn't fluctuating between 100 and 900 mV like the other three O2s.
Next step, check the O2, wiring and replace if necessary...
UPDATE:
Changed B1S2 and the voltages are now fluctuating normally. Car seems to be more stable...monitoring..
Next step, check the O2, wiring and replace if necessary...
UPDATE:
Changed B1S2 and the voltages are now fluctuating normally. Car seems to be more stable...monitoring..
Last edited by Ultra_Dog; Apr 23, 2007 at 06:20 PM.
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