Does anyone know where I can see dyno numbers of either a turbo or supercharger on a stock LT1? I hate the ads stating "get up to 55% HP gains" but never states the conditions required to achieve it!

Also, is it true that both will cost me about $5K when all is said & done?

 

Got $1500 wrapped up in my SQ trim, 42lb injectors and a dyno tune. That 5k would pay for a new shortblock - which you eventually will need.

 

I have about $8K in my rear mount turbo and related accessories (fuel, intercooler . . . ) and installation. A decent system will cost at least $2,500 alone if you buy new. Add $500 for tuning and $1K for parts and you could install it yourself for $5K.

 

I dynoed 353/374 SAE with a vortech s-trim stock internals running 6psi. Cost me 4500 including the intercooler. It'll cost you more cause your gonna want to make it go faster.

 

When I first went forced induction I got a used P600 procharger/intercooler system (used for $1800) and at 6spi I went from 245RWHP to 375RWHP. This was a totally stock 90K engine with shortie headers and cat-back.
and the hidden cost...
Good chance you will break the LT1 pistons ($5K for good short block)
Transmission problems (throw $2K/year at autos or $$$$ at clutch/etc)

 

I have the sts kit with the t67 upgraded turbo. On my stock lt1 engine with hot cam and headers. I made 377/378 5psi.

 

Stock shortblock (stock cam) with a set of CNC heads and 1.6 rockers, Hooker LTs, Borla Catback, and a P600B with 6 lbs of boost, I dynoed 435 RWHP and 440 RWTQ, corrected SAE. Torque was over 400 at 3500 rpms

 

There are a ton of variables you haven't designated yet. You can make as much power as you want with a blower or turbo, it's a matter of how much you want to spend and how you want to do it.

It sounds like you're a newb to forced induction. If that's the case then a bolt-on blower is the easiest and cheapest way to go.

-Chris

 

How'd you get an SAE number?

 

I doubt many people can put together the low cost deal you did.

If you're buying new parts, the blower system is going to cost $4K without a cooler. 42lb injectors is a good way to go for another $350 and dyno tuning will run another $350.

 

I knew little about corrected/uncorrected HP/TQ when I first took my car to the dyno, and they gave me only the corrected numbers/dyno sheet. I don't know what correction factor they used to come up with the SAE numbers. Dynoed in Albuquerque, 5300ft on a 90 degree day.

 

I'd call the gross RWHP, not SAE. It's possible they're trying to do some conversion factor to give you something like SAE, but to really be SAE it requires a test cell with a number of controlled conditions.

Not picking nits, I just thought maybe you had it out of the car and on an SAE spec dyno.

 

Most people can't put together a low buck build because they're impatient and/or shy away from buying used parts. Almost everything on my car was put together from other peoples previous combos - I got good deals cause they were buds of mine or you help them out with other things.

Low buck cars are easy to build if you have patience and are willing to trade work for parts and vice versa.

 

LT1's with stock motors usually are in the low 400's rwhp with 6-7psi from a centrifugal SC. Headers help a lot and M6's will dyno more than automatics. Stock LT1's have a tendency to eat pistons when subjected to more than 6-7psi.

Cost depends on how much you are doing yourself and if you buy new or used parts. If you want a professional turn-key job, figure close to $6,000. If you can DIY and scrounge up the parts it will be a lot less.

Rich

 

STS turbo at 6 psi put out 378 rwhp and 399 rwtq. Stock exhaust and motor.