Q: What do you do after many thousands of dollars end up in a toasted motor?
Q: What do you do after many thousands of dollars end up in a toasted motor?
A: Go buy another toy! Something a bit more reliable I might add:
http://groups.msn.com/Slorides1997Po...oto&PhotoID=63
Speedy is going to take a backseat to Bumpy for a little while.
http://groups.msn.com/Slorides1997Po...oto&PhotoID=63
Speedy is going to take a backseat to Bumpy for a little while.
Do yourself a favor and don't mod it.. or do the stuff that doesn't cut you out of a warranty etc...
I've spent too much down time with modded cars and now that we have a stock running one I'll never have another car thats not plain jane reliable STOCK in the stable.
My .02,
STEW
Remember the Rule of the 3-F's.
If it Flys, Floats or F()cks... rent it. Its much cheaper.
I've spent too much down time with modded cars and now that we have a stock running one I'll never have another car thats not plain jane reliable STOCK in the stable.
My .02,
STEW
Remember the Rule of the 3-F's.
If it Flys, Floats or F()cks... rent it. Its much cheaper.
Good advice, Stew. I won't do anything too radical. Cold air induction and catback maybe. I've learned my lesson with the T.A.
97TA, here's the short version:
Blew intake gasket on dyno.
Replaced that gasket, new ARP head bolts, 1.6 Crane Gold RR, installed KB boost-a-pump, new plugs, wires, leak down test, adjust valves that were ALL OUT OF WHACK.
Leak down test revealed some issues. Decided to go for it anyway. At the track the car keeps spitting and sputtering past 4,900 rpm. FINALLY figure out that it's the coil and wire. Fix that. Car makes it to 5,900 rpm(test driven by shop co-owner). Good boost, good AFR, 72# injectors are maxed, though. Car is taken back to the shop. I get a phone call, not good news. LOTS of blow by. Drive car home sounding like shiot. Park it.
I intend to pull the motor and go back through it with different pistons(lower CR from the now 10:1), bigger cam(224/236, .536"/.555", 114), go back through the heads again, improve the fuel system.....AGAIN, and hook the nitrous back up. Using the F.A.S.T. nitrous controller, I should be able to make the 15lbs of boost and run a 150 shot successfully. I hope.
Until then, I'm going to do a little Slo-riding in the Jeep.
97TA, here's the short version:
Blew intake gasket on dyno.
Replaced that gasket, new ARP head bolts, 1.6 Crane Gold RR, installed KB boost-a-pump, new plugs, wires, leak down test, adjust valves that were ALL OUT OF WHACK.
Leak down test revealed some issues. Decided to go for it anyway. At the track the car keeps spitting and sputtering past 4,900 rpm. FINALLY figure out that it's the coil and wire. Fix that. Car makes it to 5,900 rpm(test driven by shop co-owner). Good boost, good AFR, 72# injectors are maxed, though. Car is taken back to the shop. I get a phone call, not good news. LOTS of blow by. Drive car home sounding like shiot. Park it.
I intend to pull the motor and go back through it with different pistons(lower CR from the now 10:1), bigger cam(224/236, .536"/.555", 114), go back through the heads again, improve the fuel system.....AGAIN, and hook the nitrous back up. Using the F.A.S.T. nitrous controller, I should be able to make the 15lbs of boost and run a 150 shot successfully. I hope.
Until then, I'm going to do a little Slo-riding in the Jeep.
Originally posted by Slo-ride
Good advice, Stew. I won't do anything too radical. Cold air induction and catback maybe. I've learned my lesson with the T.A.
97TA, here's the short version:
Blew intake gasket on dyno.
Replaced that gasket, new ARP head bolts, 1.6 Crane Gold RR, installed KB boost-a-pump, new plugs, wires, leak down test, adjust valves that were ALL OUT OF WHACK.
Leak down test revealed some issues. Decided to go for it anyway. At the track the car keeps spitting and sputtering past 4,900 rpm. FINALLY figure out that it's the coil and wire. Fix that. Car makes it to 5,900 rpm(test driven by shop co-owner). Good boost, good AFR, 72# injectors are maxed, though. Car is taken back to the shop. I get a phone call, not good news. LOTS of blow by. Drive car home sounding like shiot. Park it.
I intend to pull the motor and go back through it with different pistons(lower CR from the now 10:1), bigger cam(224/236, .536"/.555", 114), go back through the heads again, improve the fuel system.....AGAIN, and hook the nitrous back up. Using the F.A.S.T. nitrous controller, I should be able to make the 15lbs of boost and run a 150 shot successfully. I hope.
Until then, I'm going to do a little Slo-riding in the Jeep.
Good advice, Stew. I won't do anything too radical. Cold air induction and catback maybe. I've learned my lesson with the T.A.
97TA, here's the short version:
Blew intake gasket on dyno.
Replaced that gasket, new ARP head bolts, 1.6 Crane Gold RR, installed KB boost-a-pump, new plugs, wires, leak down test, adjust valves that were ALL OUT OF WHACK.
Leak down test revealed some issues. Decided to go for it anyway. At the track the car keeps spitting and sputtering past 4,900 rpm. FINALLY figure out that it's the coil and wire. Fix that. Car makes it to 5,900 rpm(test driven by shop co-owner). Good boost, good AFR, 72# injectors are maxed, though. Car is taken back to the shop. I get a phone call, not good news. LOTS of blow by. Drive car home sounding like shiot. Park it.
I intend to pull the motor and go back through it with different pistons(lower CR from the now 10:1), bigger cam(224/236, .536"/.555", 114), go back through the heads again, improve the fuel system.....AGAIN, and hook the nitrous back up. Using the F.A.S.T. nitrous controller, I should be able to make the 15lbs of boost and run a 150 shot successfully. I hope.
Until then, I'm going to do a little Slo-riding in the Jeep.
However, No nitrous in my plans for the time being. I only want to go 11.00. Any faster and I have to pull out the chrome 5 point and get a 10 point. Not interested in that.
Good luck though.
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