For those that are still interested, the story continues. The latest 'theory' on why it broke was this.

We think that the blower locked up or something in it broke first because the input shaft on it broke as well. We think when this broke it started to create a vibration (which I felt while driving it trying to get it home that night, felt like it was loading up like it had been) close to my apartment it started to shake really badly and once I pulled into the drive and started towards home I shifted into 3rd around 2200rpm and it just made some noises, the lights on the dash came on and it would not restart. I looked in the rearview for oil and I saw the blower belt come off. Once I got it home I found the crank pulley to not be attached to anything. As was shown in the pictures above it broke right behind the timing gear. Now the timing gear probably had something to do with all of it. I kinda wonder if the crank wouldn't have broken even with it shaking like it was with the blower messed up, but I do think that the vibration caused some of the other stuff that happened.

Total damage was: Callies Racemaster 383 crank, ATI D1SC, 2 collapsed piston skirts, 16 bent valves, 9 guides totaled.


Currently the long block is being assembled by Nick at Nu-Tek MotorSport and is going to be a solid roller motor this time, so the motor should not have any problems. I am currently talking with SD Concepts for a stronger blower bracket and tensioner assembly. So with any luck it should be done, assembled, tuned and running on a track by June. (crossing my fingers)

 

Thanks for the update. I was wondering.

Rich Krause

 

You know what.................................

We are all freakin' mad.

 

Thanks for all of the updates. I dont have a blower, but I am getting a callies crank and building a 396. A d1sc might go on down the road, but very far down the road. I guess I am lucky that ati is close to my house, and I have several buddies that work there.

Hope everything works out ok for ya.

 

Good to hear you are progressing! I keep adding to my 383 build up as well...right now I have the vortec heads in the shop getting over size stainless steel valves with some porting work.

Are you still going to be running 15psi of boost?

Ken

 

I'm going to do my best to try and keep it right around 12-15psi.

I have been back and forth with SD these last couple days trying to figure out the bracket and tensioner issues I had with it last time it was running. There really shouldn't be any reason why it wouldn't be on the road by the first of June. At least I hope it doesn't take me that long to get everything back in the car and find someone to tune it by then.

Its been like 2 years since I have driven my car with out having to worry about something breaking.....or something actually going wrong with it. I forget what it was like to actualy go out and beat on the thing....it would be nice to have a fast car and actualy be able to drive it the way it was ment to.

 

Good luck, make sure the new motor is nice and loose.

 

Well its been a while and the car is almost back together, so instead of starting a new thread I thought I would just add to this one if anyone is interested in what happened to it......Took a while to sort out most of the problems that came up when it broke.

It'll probably be a couple more weeks before the car hits the dyno but for the most part everything is done.

A few changes I made to hopefully solve all of the other small problems it had include....
Racetronix fuel kit
new solid roller cam (244/257 .611/.609) to replace the 306
REV lightweight valves, new springs, locs and retainers
T&D shaft mount 1.6 rockers
SD Concepts modified bracket and tensioner (highly recomended if you are using a ATI kit)
Solid intake pipe (currently being made at a local shop)
Solid pipe from intercoolers to TB
The long block was assembled by Nick Norris at Nu-Tek

Other changes have been removal of the heater and duct work, stereo and other un-needed items , much larger braking system and some new sticky Yoko RR tires.

So hopefully here in the next few weeks I can have some new pics of it up along with some dyno numbers.....and if everything works out some video of the car at the track in Texas with the guys from LG

 

What does the modified tensioner and bracket do? How is it "modified"?

Thanks.

Rich Krause

 

The tensioner is converted over to a spring loaded style tensioner instead of the fixed style tensioner offered by ATI. They use your current blower bracket and modify it to incorporate their spring loaded tensioner. I also would highly recommend going this route. My car made 14psi of boost with a 6-rib belt with not no belt slippage.

 

Well you got the modified tensioner correct.

As for the modified bracket...I was having issues with the bracket flexing, hell I could see it move just by pushing up on the belt when it was on the car. So Scott put did some bracing on it. There is a strap that goes from the pass side across the bottom of the blower thru 2 of its mounting holes. Then there is an additional piece stuck on the drivers side with a steel rod that bolts to it, then to the bottom of the coil bracket to brace the outside of the blower to tie it into the rest of the bracket.

I'm running the 12 rib setup on my car and had all kinds of issues with it when it was just the ATI setup, now its much easier to to put the belt on the car, along with that there is a much more even and constant load placed on the belt where as before it was what ever the ATI tensioner wanted to do that day.