how much boost can you crank out of a powerdyne unit?...im looking at building a 9:1 CR forged 383...but im not quite sure which blower to buy...im looking for about 650 rwhp, fully ported lt1 heads, and something in the range of a cc306...first time with FI, so any info will be much appreciated...im a college student on a budget though, im deffinatly building a 383, just dont know N/A or blown yet.

 

I've seen from most that you can push a Powerdyne to 8psi, but no more because you'll overspin the compressor or risk blowing the belt in it. Doh!

With a 383 you might not be able to get so much, and head/cam selection will determine how much boost you actually see in the cylinders.

Powerdynes limit top boost, but even 6psi on a 383 is pretty hefty...

Cam - LSA is important if you dont know. 112 isnt good, usually 114+ is. Check out some of the blower grinds comp camps makes, and do a search, there's a lot on here!

(And a lot of hating of powerdyne, but people have their reasons. They're great bang-for-your-buck, but limit mod-ability)

 

at one time i ran a powerdyne but like he said very limited i spun mine at 8 psi on cnc heads blew it up twice powerdyne does have a good customer service dept. but still pain to pull blower and keep sending it back i would recomend a d1sc or t-trim you will get more out of the blower i have a d1sc and i love it nice kit i think best bang for the buck

 

mike 383, what cam and CR are you running in your 383? ...is the LSA so important with blown motors to bleed off some low end boost?

also, after doing some more reading, im finding out for what i want to spend, ill only be getting around 550 rwhp, so my previous post was a little impractical

 

on my new set up i was running 10.5 to 1 114 lobe sep.was nice but got the s***** of running race gas .just ordered a set of afr 220 lt4 heads and a little smaller cam still on a 114 lobe sep. this new set up will get me down to 9.12 to 1 copresion ratio pump gas friendly should still put 600+ rwhp on 15 lbs boost

 

Stay away from the Powerdyne. It will not support your desired power level (or get anywhere near it for that matter).

 

A 383 well done on an lt1 can hit 350rwhp without much hassle. Well done I think 100rwhp gain with the powerdyne should do... 550rwhp with a 100shot of nitrous and the powerdyne on a 383... that I think is do-able

 

A 383 well done can hit 450 rwhp - so what do you need all the complexity of the supercharger kit, etc. for?

But honestly, the supercharger isn't going to work by adding xxx hp. It will give you a certain amount of CFM, but if your motor is using at or near that CFM already then you wont see much gains (or boost).


Chris

 

True, but a 383 that isnt built out the wall and not using too much flow N/A should be able to see 5-6psi from a really maxed out powerdyne. And with a good cam and a high LSA, should be able to push 100rwhp from that 5-6psi, as is usually pretty easily done on a 350lt1 and 6psi of boost, If you went that way you might not have to go super-crazy on the heads or cam and have a car that would be less "high strung" when cruising around at lower rpm, right? You could do it either way... But I cant find the CFM of a BD11A from powerdyne's site

 

i think im just gonna go NA, blowers are alot of money and seem like a lot of hassle...for that money i can get my car painted and get the wheels i want

 

Just my 0.02 ........ Go N/A ... go up to a 396 and have fun. Paint the car put some cool wheels on it and you'll be even further in love. Anything much over 400 RWHP just isn't needed for the street.

later ... Larry S.

 

hey MislMan,

what do u think you would run on your set up without the drag radials?

 

With good track prep and really rolling into the throttle the best I have run on street tires (BFG Comp T/A's 275/40x17) was a 12.19 @ 114.23 MPH with a 1.89 60'. Street tires makes it much harder to run consistently (the DR's help but not that much) and more difficult to get away from the line. The 1-2 shift breaks the tires loose and kicks the tail a little sideways. My T/A runs an automatic (4L60E) with 3.70 gears in a Currie 9+ rearend (Ford 9" concept) and a 2200 stall converter. The suspension is sit up for road courses and I have taken the car out for track days at Sebring, Roebling Road (Savannah, Ga) and Road Atlanta. Lowered suspension, Baer brakes, LCAs, SFC, panhard bar, HALs, BMR torque arm don't help traction at the dragstrip.

This is an all-around car made for fun and I tend to drive it that way. Sometimes on the drag strip, sometimes on the road course, and always on the street. It could run the 1/4 a little faster with slicks but then it wouldn't be a street car.

Oops .... let me get off the soap box ... I tend to get carried away.

Later ... Larry S.