Planning out a single turbo buidup with 4-5psi street in mind.

I know I will have to do fuel, that will be the next thing to go in: FMU, 255lph pump, and if absolutely neccesarry 36#'ers

Ive already done a couple of essential guages, and done the spark plugs fresh and gapped small.

Couple of questions.
1 - Is it possible to fit a turbo in the space on passengers side just above factory ypipe, below the manifold by branching the two manifolds together and dumping into turbo? Not much in this area for heat to damage... If this is a no go, I want to copy the rear mount turbo, just fab it up myself and spend much less money.

2 - Im a bit misinformed on the whole fuel setup. Does running bigger injectors run more fuel all the time? Would a FMU and pump be sufficient for my goal or would I have to do injectors, or what combination of this for my goal?

3 - Starting to get the sizing/ar thing.... would a .63/.96 cold/hot do what Im aiming for If I had an external wastegate to bleed off excess?

4 - Either one of these setups would need some oil pumping,, any ideas on this? Just a simple oil pump and lines, or is it more diff than that?

5 - How big of an intercoller for this goal?

6 - All the vcume hoses,,, best place to connect them... wastegate right off of compressor? bov somewhere in intake pumbing? Guage straight off of intake manifold?

More questions to come, sorry so long, now if I could jjust get one of you to build it for me.



95 z28, 110k miles
m6 with hurst short throw shortened
!cat
!air
flowmaster,,, pop pop pop

Ran 14.1 with a froze caliper dragging....

 

is there anything done to the bottom end or the heads?

 

Nope, all stock internals

This leads to the good excuse for a rebuild in a short time... she can take a few psi though

 

FYI- there is no such thing as a "poor boys" turbo buildup. You'd be better off buying a used supercharger on ebay and installing it unless you're going to build the setup to handle what you really want (like 12psi or more or something). A decent used turbo that would be able to push a maximum 6psi alone will set you back $500, then there's everything else, fabrication parts and welding, intercooler, wastegate, etc... It's hard to do one for parts under $1500-$2000 if you even do the welding, locating and fabrication yourself. If not it might be even more expensive. It's not easy because getting everything to seal properly takes a lot of time and effort. You usually can find a used supercharger on ebay for around $2000 with almost everything in it. But to answer your questions:

1 - The size of the turbo is important. Which turbo will matter on where you put it. Downside to location is how to route piping and oil lines. I assume you're talking around the starter. Get a Tubular K-member - it'll give you a LOT of bonus room down there.

2 - Without reprogramming the ECU, larger injectors will run your car WAYY rich, beyond where the ECU can "learn". A FMU will boost fuel pressure under boost, which works, but makes tuning more difficult. Best thing is get new injectors and pump - but the question is, buy injectors now and then when you really build the motor... buy another set? I personally am only going to buy them once.

3 - Sizing again I feel is a tough issue that needs more discussion to your final goals and where you want your power. As you said "rear mount turbo" like the STS kit. That turbo is specifically chosen for that idea. Running your average turbo like that would never run right, and vise versa.

4 - If your turbo is infront of the firewall (give or take) and above the oil pan, you can tap off the oil pump output and drain to the pan or valve cover depending on where the turbo is. Otherwise if it's far back (like the STS kit) you need a pump to push the oil forward to the engine.

5 - You can size an intercooler by CFM and the openings for the turbo you're using. Also with the LT1's WHERE to mount it is a hard decision, do a search for ideas.

6 - Correct on those three. I personally would put the BOV after the intercooler and before the TB, but gauge is off the manifold (make sure to get one that has vaccume as well, this will be good to know when tuning, problem solving etc)

In forced induction, tuning and the right components are everything. In a turbo, tuning more difficult then a supercharger. Do a lot of searches and you will find a lot of both great information and a lot of ideas.

Also 6psi intercooled on your engine with proper tuning could potentially last 30,000 miles... but with not so good tuning and if your engine isnt in all too great shape, it could last 500... It's a fine line to run...

 

Does anybody think down by the starter/ypipe is doable?

Appreciate the input, but what is a descent turbo that will push 6psi and run $500?....

 

Actually, if you shop carefully, you can find some good deals on turbos in the $150 to 400 range. Just depends on what you want.
The average T3 size will push 6 easy.

I got my diesel turbos off Ebay for around $150 each; one would probably be plenty for a stock LT1.

 

But would the avg t3 with internal wastegate flow enough exahust? guess I could put an external slightly higher set to be safe? Use the two together?

From reading I wouldnt think something like a .68 turbine would flow well because its so small in comparison with the motor.... feedback please??

 

Lots of help on this forum..... How many users are here again?

 

I dont know if a T3 would be able to push enough through the internal wastegate... but more then that, if you set up a system to run off a single T3, you'd need to redo the system from the ground up when you upgraded. Why do it all twice?

Downside of course to twins is the complexity of install and more parts required. Downside to near the starter is there isnt that much room down there for much of anything. Remember that you need to get 4 pipes into one small space. Turbo inlet, compressor outlet, impeller inlet, impeller outlet. That'd mean you'd have roughly 4 2.5" pipes in that one area... it'd be a really tight squeeze.

Are you thinking of doing a system to be upgraded later? What are your final goals? What other mods do you have? How much are you willing to spend?

I commented you'd want to spend $500 atleast for a turbo because I personally think a single is a lot easier to work with. Granted there are plenty of diesel turbos out there that'll do what you want, and you can get some good turbos really cheap that will certainly do the job... But IMHO single is the way to go unless you're going over 800hp - and even then a single will probably do. A nice T76 or T88 used will run you $700 used in nice condition but will support 800hp...but do it once - do it right is my thought. But for the fabrication, parts, and everything else required, a pair of turbos would be more hassle (which may or may not matter to you)

If you're going dead soft budget, do a search for STS or Remote mounted turbo. You could fabricate something like that up without too much of a hassle...

A note on the wastegate: Dont use two. It'd be one more funky variable to deal with that you dont want. If you got an internally gated T3 I would say weld it shut and get an External. But if you're going to spend the effort and time to weld it shut - might as well step up a few bucks (just get something bigger without an internal gate as you know you'd want an external) and then get a T4 or something anyway

 

Appreciate it, my main worry was that I had been told prev that t3 would not support the boost i wanted.. was at the shop today, put a resonator on to deaden some of the bark until i change stuff up. Was looking at the place I want to put it,, I think its doable,,, would set at a bit of an angle, and slighly lower ground clearance... I know this is really really bad, but she hardly ever leaves pavement, and when its gravel its only drive ways... will just have to get one and start measuring....

Who makes a 3-4ish psi wastegate? keep finding the 5.xx ones a lot,, not any smaller though....

As far as future goals... this idea will easily support me @ 400hp, then up to 500's with a few more upgrades... Ill have a vette in the driveway as a daily driver before I start trying to build any 9sec beast,,, which would mean a total strip and rebuild from ground up anyway....

My biggest goal with the placement of the turbo here is trying to avoid doing manifolds... lazy I know.... and at this low of a location I guess I would have to pump oil back into the pan... how do I go about this? pump should be cheap? Thanks guys.

 

yes, you can do a Junkyard Turbo build up and have it cost significantly less than a kit. There are some people that have less than $600 in a JY kit, but your asking these questions in the wrong forum most likely...check out www.turbomustangs.com and go to the JY/DIY turbo forum. Do some reading there and you should get plenty of info. They don't seem to mind questions from non-Ford owners either

I am planning the same type of thing using a Holset HX35 turbo that can be had on ebay for around $250...the internal wastegate isn't good for less than about 12psi, and I only want to run 6-7 so I need to get an external wastegate. you can either pick up a factory one from a turbo Audi or something, or you can buy a new one but they are pretty expensive (probably the most expensive part of the build).

I understand typical price for a turbo buildup is around $1500.

 

I dont remember the reasoning and rules from the book, but I do remember that some turbos really really dont like getting put at an angle. Someone here has to know off the top of their head... I'm at work and dont have the book with me...

 

I"m trying to create a replica of the sts system myself.

I know that the sts rear mounted set-up uses a t04-60 trim with .81 a/r. Finding one of these turbos on ebay will set you back $600 for a pair.

I've been trying to find a stock turbo out of a stock import or disiel truck but haven't had any luck yet.

According to garrett industries you can go without an intercooler or bov for a rear mounted set-up when running 5-6 psi.

 

I wouldnt. Intercooler? Not necessarily. I would throw on an air-water myself. Personally... you never can be too careful... but then I wouldnt run a turbo less then 8-10psi...

Also there is plenty of reason for a BOV. I dont care what garret says that you dont need one. You dont NEED to run premium on an LT1. But it's really really good idea ;-)

Less stress on the turbine shaft the better.

 

When I started my Twin project, My buddy had 2 T3 turbo's and we tried to stick them up under the starter area. There is no way that they would fit. My SC-61's were a an absolute no-go, way to big for under there. That is the reason I chose the place I did, up in the front. I believe that Brady had a kit, well a modified kit from Burhead Headers that used some T3/T4 Hybrid turbo's that had integral wastegates on them. Might wanna do a search on "twin Turbo" and see if you can find the link to his webpage, he had alot of pics.

Bill