Yup... you're going to need two intank pumps or one VERY large external pump. My twin pumps will be feeding a blown 383.

-B

 

Ok, so a buddy and I started the dual in-tank install yesterday. Have a couple of questions for the original posted, and a wiring question that someone can hopefully help with.

First off, for 97WS6Pilot, did you cut the ends off of those brass fittings that went into the Y-Block?? We were having a fit of a time getting the hoses to turn without kinking down towards the pumps because they stuck out so far.

Now, as for the wiring; I'm not too crazy about simply drilling a hole in the top of the factory bucket assembly, routing wires through, and then using JB Weld to seal it up. I'd like to get a low profile bulkhead fitting but can't seem to find anything out there. Then it struck me; What about the factory bulkhead fitting on the bucket cover?? That's a 4 wire fitting, of which only three are used. If anyone has a pump out could you look at that and see if it would be possible to use??? I would, but my lower back went out yesterday on me and I can't do crap right now, thanks to someone's car, you know who you are.

What I'm thinking is the following: A Common ground in the tank for both pumps, then the single power wire plugged into the remaining opening in the bulkhead fitting, run forward to a relay in the engine compartment. Simple, effective, and unintrusive.

 

You really dont want to run common grounds through a small gauge wire.

 

I had to grind the hi flow fittings so they were just long enough to clamp on the hoses. I also dremeled to make a new ring around the end so pressure would not blow the hose off.

I looked everywhere and could not find a fuel resistant bulkhead fitting. I would not use the factory bulkhead because you would have to have 3 grounds going through the same wire. Remember, there is a power and a ground for your fuel quantity sensor.

I will check my JB Weld to see if it is still holding up.

 

ok i spent about1 hour reading this (and this needs to be a sticky for real) tell me if i have gotten the wrong idea. 396 500na hp, 300 wet shot (125 dry for now) stock fuel feed and return lines will work, no issues. wire 1 pump to the fuel relay the way it is now , no change. the second pump should have a new 12 volt source from ( lets say my nitrous switch) something, maybe an addition switch straight from the alt or something like that. ok then they can share a ground wire the size of texas. 1 pump runs in the na no nitrous mode all the time, if said pump dies you can arm switch and run second pump to get home or whatever. now in race conditions , all you have to do is arm the nitrous switch or secondary switch and the second becomes usefull and ready to give you enough fuel to be safe. ok if any of that is wrong please let me know my brain is fried and cant take anymore reading. oh yeah where in the hell are you getting the hoses for the inside of the take and the block that is joining the 2 pumps into 1 feed line. if there are part numbers that i missed can someone please type them in the reply so i can copy it and start to order some junk. also what size injectors would i need casue i was told by thunder racing that 50 was over kill , remember i am running the dry shot untill i can afford the wet shot. so say 625hp the ijectors must feed right off the bat. my god my brain hurts later guys and you all are to smart for my own good.lol thanks for all the info to help us retarted folks to run half as fast as you guys

 

subscribing for the valubale info..

 

Huh, I’d love to see the original pics…

Not exactly, they are rated for 8 years in contact with petroleum products and the latest formulation of gas has some really nasty stuff in it and we’ve had earl’s stuff dissolve in 2 days in an in tank application (replacing the pump in a 99 Silverado 2 days later the stuff came out softer then vacuum hose and we were able to grab what was left of the inner liner with one hand and the outer with another and pull it appart)

Do you have the rail feeds and the return coming straight off the rails or is the fuel flowing throught the rails, crossing over somewhere (can’t see it in the pics) and then out through the regulator?

 

WS6 TA I didn't know that about the braided lines. That's good info! Note to self replace lines every 6 yrs.

 

I've been using aeroquip braided lines since around 1998 on my car, no problems whatsoever.

IMO, any motor over 500 HP, the stock fuel lines should be replaced with bigger lines and an external pump. The stockers are just too small and may not support enough volume. The only way the stock fuel lines can possibly support that much power is by increasing the pressure of the fuel pump w/switches, etc, which can take a toll on the pump itself and what if the switch fails?. And, even if you increase the pressure of the fuel pump, you will not get the same volume as if the fuel lines were bigger.

With all the money invested in these motors, and with nitrous (esp that guy with a 300 shot!!), blowers, why take a chance running lean?

By not installing the fuel system as a whole to support the horsepower, your just band-aiding it.

 

You bring up a good point about the volume capability of the stock fuel lines, but it's already been proven that with the right setup the stock lines are more than adequate for well in excess of 500 HP.

 

Update to this. I finished up the install on my buddy's car yesterday. Found a non-intrusive way to wire the second pump. There is an EVAP line that goes into the top of the bucket assembly with no line on the inside. I conferred with the engine builder at the shop where we were doing this and a couple other people, and everyone said that it would be fine. What I ended up doing was drilling a small hole in the rubber connector for the line to bucket and ran the power/ground wires for the secondary pump through the metal line and down into the tank.

Now, as for the wiring, what I'm planning is as follows: Pump power wire to the hobbs switch, and out the other side of the hobbs switch to the relay, and through to the battery. The a switched ignition source as the relay actuator and a ground for it. This way there is not a hot battery wire going directly to the pump or hobbs switch. Sound like that would work ok?

 

where can we find aftermarket fuel rails for lt1?

 

fast thorw me a few pics of how you mounted both pumps to the factory assembly. i was going to use 1 band clamp but i just dont feel safe doing that. i like the idea of using the evap tube as a wire gromet, might do that as well.

 

I'll have to see if my buddy got any pics because I didn't take any. If he doesn't give me a few days and I'm going to begin working on mine and I'll be sure to take pics then.

FWIW, all we did to mount the pumps was cut the bucket mounting tabs off and then use two hose clamps (the screw type) to sinch them down to the back piece. held it on there fine.

 

yeah i cut the mounting tab off as well. guess i gotta go back and get another clamp from lowes. do you guys think a normal hihgh pressure 3/8's line from the hard line from in the tank to the filter will be ok. i had cut mine in the past to put a in-line pump in for a nitrous kit. just wordering if anyone thinks i'll have issues. i have it ran outta the way of any moving parts and made it so it wont rub though on anything. 1 more thing is a 30amp relay and 30 in line fuse with 12 gauge wire gonna be strong enough to feed the 2nd pump or do i need a larger gauge wire.