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PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
97WS6Pilot's Avatar
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

Originally Posted by snorkelface
Any reason why this setup wouldn't also work in a turbo application? Also, would also be beneficial to put an air/oil sperator on the stock side of the PCV setup?
This setup would work fine on a turbo application. The reason I don't use a separater on the pcv side is for 2 reasons. The Pcv side moves alot of CFM and I don't think the separater could keep up and the Pcv side is not as prone to oil spray at high rpm.

Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; Oct 4, 2006 at 08:55 PM.
Old Oct 4, 2006 | 08:51 PM
  #17  
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

Originally Posted by T/A KID
From what I have seen, There is quite a Few ways to get Crankcase evac out of the a Motor effeciently. I have talked to several People and shops about this and something I was told that would work well is picture number 1.
Exotic Performance plus, VRE, Shane at thunder racing, Stenod, all told me I really didn't need a PCV setup b/c it was basically for emissions and I should just use a Pipe plug to plug it up. Here is one of Stenods customer cars they just did and this guy drives this on the street often even with the Glide http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...&highlight=PCV
Some peope say, " well you need to change your oil more frequently" and I change mine every 3000 miles regardless.
I still have some things to think about with the PCV setup but I may go with Bret's idea still since it seems like less work and just as Effecient
None of the motorheads have ever liked PCV. If it doesn't give more power then you don't need it, right? I disagree that it is only for emission control purposes only. If yours is a daily driver like mine then it is a good system to have for keeping your oil and crankcase clean.

I wish you could see my oil after 6000 miles. Its color is still golden brown and doesn't look much different than the day I put it in. I got kind of worried that maybe it wasn't circulating.
Old Oct 4, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #18  
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

Originally Posted by 97WS6Pilot
This setup would work fine on a turbo application. The reason I don't use a separater on the pcv side is for 2 reasons. The Pcv side moves alot of CFM and I don't think the separater could keep up.and the Pcv side is not as prone to oil spray at high rpm.
Seems like I'll go with a setup like that then. Seems to not add too much more clutter to the engine bay, is pretty simple and doesn't seem too costly.
Old Oct 4, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #19  
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

i have mine setup like your second example. at idle it has very little draw if any but i am sure as engine and blower speed increase it should have a good amount of vacum on it. if this does not seem to work well i will most likely run the lines to the collectors.
Old Oct 6, 2006 | 02:34 AM
  #20  
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

I went w/ this catch can and should be in the mail today. http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

I like the idea of running the other line off the catch can to inlet side of the blower too. Looks like I'll be changing mine as well.

Originally Posted by 97WS6Pilot
I wish you could see my oil after 6000 miles. Its color is still golden brown and doesn't look much different than the day I put it in. I got kind of worried that maybe it wasn't circulating.
Man I must have a bad system or something because of all the cars I've owned even new off the show room floor and changing the oil myself I've never seen oil go in clean and come out clean. Not trying to debunk you but I'd love to see that for myself.

Last edited by ZBLKHELLRZR; Oct 6, 2006 at 02:37 AM.
Old Oct 6, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #21  
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Re: PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

Originally Posted by ZBLKHELLRZR
I went w/ this catch can and should be in the mail today. http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

I like the idea of running the other line off the catch can to inlet side of the blower too. Looks like I'll be changing mine as well.



Man I must have a bad system or something because of all the cars I've owned even new off the show room floor and changing the oil myself I've never seen oil go in clean and come out clean. Not trying to debunk you but I'd love to see that for myself.
Ok its not quite as golden brown as I thought it was but you can see by the picture that it still has good color to it. Consistancy is good too. This is with 6300 miles mostly city driving. Castol Syntec Blend 5W30.

Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:45 PM
  #22  
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Question

Originally Posted by 97WS6Pilot
You will have very little ventilation with that setup requiring frequent oil changes and contaminated oil. You will have a vacuum at WOT but no ventilation. You need a source of fresh clean air to go into the crankcase/ passenger side valve cover.

Why would you need a check valve if that line never sees boost? In other words your drawing air from the lifter valley and sending it to the suck side of the blower through a catch can.

I suggest you leave the driver side pcv valve and rubber line hooked up as though it were stock(it hooks into the front of the intake manifold for vacuum and draws harmful blowby from the lifter valley on the driver side of the engine).

Then I would run the passenger side breather hose through an air/water separator(check out projecttransam.com for details) to the suck side of the blower. There is a picture at the bottom of my cardomain site.

I've run this setup for 25,000 miles and it works great. Also you don't have to add a catch can to an already overcrowded engine bay. I get about 2 or 3 drops of oil in the separator when I wind it up to 6400 rpm. This is because the blower intake makes a lot of vacuum at high rpm. No oil leaks, no pressure in the crankcase, and I'm running 6000 miles between oil changes.
Quick question going back to this setup. I've discussed with someone involved with my build that states that the one-way check valve in the stock driver's-side PCV system would fail under boost and pressurize the crack case. Has anyone run into this problem? Could I install an upgraded one-way check valve if the stock one could fail?

Last edited by snorkelface; Jan 6, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #23  
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Mine has not failed in 30,000 miles. If it does it only costs 3 dollars at the local parts store. It looks pretty sturdy to me. I have checked mine at full boost by having an assistant hold their finger over it. It doesn't leak. I think if you put an aftermarket check valve you would lower the cfm while in vacuum.
Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 97WS6Pilot
Mine has not failed in 30,000 miles. If it does it only costs 3 dollars at the local parts store. It looks pretty sturdy to me. I have checked mine at full boost by having an assistant hold their finger over it. It doesn't leak. I think if you put an aftermarket check valve you would lower the cfm while in vacuum.
Gees, I meant boost, not post in my last message. Fixed.

That's what got me. He was telling me that if I put a shop hose up to that valve, that it would easily be able to blow the wrong way through the valve if it was pressurized. This is really confusing me and is the last thing that needs to be done before we get this thing fired up.
Old Jan 25, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #25  
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[QUOTE=T/A KID;4138713]I was looking at catch cans but I seen this and I may just go with this now.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10053

For what it's worth, I just tried one of these and the little plastic bowl is already showing cracks after only driving one day. I tried to mount it over to the side of the engine compartment, but evidently it still gets too hot for this catch can.
Old Jan 26, 2008 | 04:56 AM
  #26  
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[QUOTE=David94TA;5137973]
Originally Posted by T/A KID
I was looking at catch cans but I seen this and I may just go with this now.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10053

For what it's worth, I just tried one of these and the little plastic bowl is already showing cracks after only driving one day. I tried to mount it over to the side of the engine compartment, but evidently it still gets too hot for this catch can.
Get in touch w/ this guy. It's what I'm using and well worth it. Their prices have gone up though...I got mine for under 90 bucks last yr. I did mine a little diffferent in terms of installation. I'm using a catch can for each VC, TB ports capped off, and being a 93 my pcv is located on the DS. I took the vac line ran it to the inlet of the CC oil/water seperator can and ran the outlet line to the pcv/line port. No oil thus far but it pics up condensation that has a fuel odor to it.
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/new_page_1.htm


Last edited by The SRZ; Jan 26, 2008 at 08:54 AM.
Old Jan 26, 2008 | 06:28 AM
  #27  
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OK, thanks. That looks good.
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