You better freaking believe it.. the eaton made over 450 rwtq at say 3000 rpm. it was instant

 

My thoughts on this...I really never paid much attention to roots style of blowers until I bought...my Lightning.

Opened up a new world of thoughts to myself in regard to what horsepower is and what you had to do to get it...(and how a properly geared vehicle that makes a lot of torque moves out way better than it should)

I am a rather old school in mind...a lot of compression...a lot of head...a lot of everything...and then you have my low compression 5.4 2V Lightning motor.

On 93 octane pump gas, full creature comforts, a/c, powersteering, nice sound system...very comfortable seats....a pretty nice package... it runs 12.5's@110+ on stock tires at the track....geez, how would it run in a 3200 lb(loose 1500 lbs. just weight alone) Fox body...no more 62+ lb. wheels/tires...could probably run something smaller than my 5" driveshaft...get considerably better aerodynamics...all while running a 3.08 gear...foot braking it....thing would probably run mid 10's@130+ on pump gas...and never ever break.

I would take a good Eaton setup over a centrifugal setup anyday...and to look at twin-screws...ouch...

 

I had a vortech S trim on my car and what I noticed was boost would not reach 6psi until the revs were up to about 4500. Centrifugal design chargers generate a ton of heat...intercooler is a must. I think a positive displacement blower provides boost on demand from low rpm all the way up. If I ever put a blower back on my car I want a positive displacement unit like the Eaton that is on my GTP, reliable, quiet and boost on demand at any rpm. Magnacharger makes a kit for LS1 now, fits GTO, Corvette and Cadillac CTS Vseries. You can checkit out on the site below. That is what I would buy if they ever make a kit for LT1 ...fat chance!

http://magnacharger.com/systems.htm

 

Actually, it's quite the opposite. Centrifugals add far less heat than Positive displacement. Centrifugal efficiency is around 70% versus 40% for lobe blowers. That translates into less hp to drive the blower and less heat added to the air.

 

The vortech s-trim unit on my '94 Z-28 did not provide the instant boost at under 4500rpm like my '03 GTP's Eaton unit does. That is why my LT-1 would benefit from the Eaton style blower vs. the vortech...the full boost can be delivered on demand thru the entire rpm range. This is what is lacking in the vortech, you have to get those revs up to get full boost and that reduces the "fun factor" of getting full boost and power when you want it.

 

Whats an estimate on what the kit would cost, and what all would it include?

 

My little strim made a hair under 14 psi peak without overspinning it, and 10-11psi off the 4k stall - which was enough to churn the 13.5 x 28" ET streets, with the old suspension setup. Plenty of fun factor IMO...

Centrifugal 6-speed guys - try downshifting - it works wonders

 

Yes, mine worked quite well also. The converter stalled to 4000 rpm with the centrifugal, where it was making about 8 psi and put 575 ftlb to the wheels. Of course, with the turbo at 20 psi, the converter stalls to 5200 rpm (poor little abused Vigilante 2800. . .) and torque is much better. . .

 

Guys,

You may want to take a look at this. It's long, but it's worth reading and seeing the pictures.

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...;f=15;t=000432
http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...;f=15;t=000381

 

I'd probally offer it for 1800-2400 for a "tuner kit" buy your own blower (300-500 on ebay)

 

Comparing centrifugal and twin screws, what are some of the stats on the common centri's? (t-trim, P1, D1, etc)

2.3 and 2.4L twin screws are very efficient from what i've seen.... all the stats i've seen on them have volumetric efficiencies of about 92% and adiabatic efficiencies of about 70%, all while moving approx 1000cfm (1005cfm is advertized for the 2.4Ls, whipple has the 2.3s at about 980cfm IIRC). They must be good since many of the KB cobras can run upwards of 18-19psi on 93 pump gas without detonation on stock engines (~600rwhp).

If the whipple 3.3L has about the same efficiency ratings at the 2.3 and 2.4, that will be one hell of a blower.

 

Alvin,

What's included in the kit? What blower should be purchased off Ebay?Pictures would be great.

 

No Eaton is worth the trouble. K/B blower intake temps are high as well. Works blowers are the only whipples Ive heard about and they performed ok for the few fortunate to own them. I belive they were 2.4's or something. I cant wait to see what the 3.3 can do. If youre going to go through all the trouble of making one fit your LT1 go 3.3 Whipple.

 

I want one for my '94 b-body. According to Keith at MPE, only Eaton will clear under the stock hood, any other aftermarket blower will require cowl hood. I'm still not sure for am I going to do.