New to supercharging
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 202
From: KY
New to supercharging
Hey guys I am looking to get some help here. I am totally new to supercharging but I know the power they can give. Here are a few questions hopefully you guys can help me with, but first about my car.
My car, LT1 with around 40-45k miles on it, M6, LT4 Hotcam Kit, gasket matched head porting, CAI, MAC headers, no cats and Dynomax exhaust.
Can an LT1 handle supercharging with stock internals?
What is needed?
Best supercharger?
The car is a daily driver (only car I have) what would I be lookin at differently?
What are some things a new guy absolutely needs to know about supercharging?
How much of a difference do they make?
Reliable?
Price?
My car, LT1 with around 40-45k miles on it, M6, LT4 Hotcam Kit, gasket matched head porting, CAI, MAC headers, no cats and Dynomax exhaust.
Can an LT1 handle supercharging with stock internals?
What is needed?
Best supercharger?
The car is a daily driver (only car I have) what would I be lookin at differently?
What are some things a new guy absolutely needs to know about supercharging?
How much of a difference do they make?
Reliable?
Price?
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 233
From: Washington DC
The first thing that everyone will say is that you also need to start a rebuild fund soon. I can tell you that seting up your car for putting on a supercharger is a all or nothing type of modification. What I mean by this is that to many people skip out on the "other" things that need to get done and wind up blowing their motors and then just blame the blower and say that the motor was crappy. So here is my attemp to help you out, And like everthing in the world, my word is not the end all be all, just a guy that has been in your shoes and hopes it can help.
As for cost it will be about :
$3000-3500 for the blower
$300-500 for the ignition/boost retard
$500-700 proper computer tuning and dyno tune
$500-600 upgraded radiator for better cooling
$1000- other stuff that seems to pop up.
Then there are the other costs that will be need down the line to upgrade, like the headers, transmission, rear-end, suspension, and that stuff can add up to another couple of $1000's of bucks.
For what is need I would say the two most important things is first a good install, then right after that is a good DYNO TUNE, with the computer getting retuned at that time. Proper air/fuel ratios and tables need to be set. And if the boost is under 10lbs intercooled the stock stuff can handle it.(mine lasted for several years and about 90,000+miles). But like I said my car had a good dyno tune and other upgrades to the cooling system.
I personnaly like the ATI systems since they come with a intercooler, mine is a P600B that runs about 7-10 psi.
I also drive my car to work every day and is has been good to go.
The other major downfall to SCing is that it is very addictive and many times people will be good with 5-10 psi then push it to 12-15 psi and the motor goes boom. Also there are alot of hidden costs to SC to insure that the entire engine system is reliable, but once the motor and supporting systems are properly setup there is nothing else out there that gives you that power and "cool" factor when that "whine" is buzzing through the parking lot and the other guys know you are carring a "big stick" under your hood. Sorry for the lenght but I hope this helps out. Good Luck!
As for cost it will be about :
$3000-3500 for the blower
$300-500 for the ignition/boost retard
$500-700 proper computer tuning and dyno tune
$500-600 upgraded radiator for better cooling
$1000- other stuff that seems to pop up.
Then there are the other costs that will be need down the line to upgrade, like the headers, transmission, rear-end, suspension, and that stuff can add up to another couple of $1000's of bucks.
For what is need I would say the two most important things is first a good install, then right after that is a good DYNO TUNE, with the computer getting retuned at that time. Proper air/fuel ratios and tables need to be set. And if the boost is under 10lbs intercooled the stock stuff can handle it.(mine lasted for several years and about 90,000+miles). But like I said my car had a good dyno tune and other upgrades to the cooling system.
I personnaly like the ATI systems since they come with a intercooler, mine is a P600B that runs about 7-10 psi.
I also drive my car to work every day and is has been good to go.
The other major downfall to SCing is that it is very addictive and many times people will be good with 5-10 psi then push it to 12-15 psi and the motor goes boom. Also there are alot of hidden costs to SC to insure that the entire engine system is reliable, but once the motor and supporting systems are properly setup there is nothing else out there that gives you that power and "cool" factor when that "whine" is buzzing through the parking lot and the other guys know you are carring a "big stick" under your hood. Sorry for the lenght but I hope this helps out. Good Luck!
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 233
From: Washington DC
AS you know our rear-ends are not the strongest by any means. If you have $2500 laying around then I would recommend the strange 12 bolt that pretty much gives you the strength needed and the "bolt-up" ablity that is designed into that set-up from Strange. But if that addition funding is not burning a hole in your pocket I can say that the stock rear-end will hold as long as you don't put any type of slick on it. The reason is that with a regular street tire the tires will start to let-go and slip before the braking threshold of the rear end is met(most of the time). But if you plan on slapping on slicks and doing 4 grand drops your rear will give up the ghost! So in this traction is a killer for the stock rear end. If you plan on tacking it easy off the line(stoplight) then hammering it as the car is moving then you will be okay for a while with the stock rear. Hope this helps.
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