I was wondering if anyone had any insight in reguards to... resurfacing my current flywheel,getting a new clutch disk...and a new pressure plate..i have a 1995 formula with a 6 speed.. The engine that im building is a 355 blown lt1 with 10 to 12 psi out of a p600b....id like to get a somewhat stock feeling clutch.....any help is appreciated thanks



Steve

 

I just installed the Mcleod Street Twin with the steel flywheel a few months ago and I love it. The peddle pressure is a little more than stock but very smooth.

 

any insight as to where i could purchase.. that setup? the mcleod street twin? thanks for the help






Steve

 

is anyone using the slp setup? the slp pressure plate..throwout bearing and the slp clutch disc? if i resurfaced my existing flywheel..would it work ok...with the slp pressure plate and slp clutch disc ? they want 350.00 bucks for a flywheel...i was hoping i could just possiblty get the slp pressure plate and disc any suggestions? thanks for the help







Steve

 

the slp won't hold 10-12psi for very long. The twin disk is like double the clutch of the slp. Plus each disk would hold more than the slp would. Maybe the spec stage 3 would hold your power. But the twin disk would be the do it once kind of thing.

 

rival ok thanks for the input..the motor is very low compression 8.8 to 1 at the moment...i was running a ati p600b at 8 psi..with a stock internal lt1.. i had to tear down...so...i guess what im tryin to say is...is there anythin out there that would retain close to a stock feel in the clutch? new zo6's are puttin out 405 hp at the motor vipers 450hp plus...now...i was wondering what sort of setup they use etc.....i'll prob be at 450 plus at the motor im assuming...i just dont want to get...a clutch, pressure plate,and flywheel and realize after its too late. that its more clutch than i need...i was hoping i could get somethin like the slp..clutch which is 30 percent more holding power....and it be enough.....thanks for the input..






Steve

 

Last I looked, the SLP stuff is just lightened stock stuff… it won’t hold any better then a stock clutch, just cost you more.

For that matter, EVERYONE’S pressure plate is just a stock one (with whatever color paint on it), that is the only clutch that works the way it does and valeo has a patent on it. Even the Centerforce is just a stock one with weights on it (which cannot work correctly).

I own an aluminum flywheel street twin and have installed a bunch of them… my $.02:
- if it’s a street car, resurface the flywheel, get a stock PP and use either a good stock replacement clutch or you can tinker with the assorted mecleod/star/ram parts out there that fit (just about any stock chevy clutch disk with the right thickenss could be used. Stay away from Kevlar, once you smoke it, it will chatter till you get pissed off and pull it out)
- If it’s a street car that’s going to see a lot of racing get a steel flywheel street twin. As much as I don’t like McLeod (don’t ask, but at one point I pulled the same transmission 7 times in less then 2 weeks with them trying to get their **** straight, and the owner is a dick, the guy that works on the ST’s is a good guy but somewhere things are getting messed up), it is the only setup that will reliably take HEAVY abuse, this thing is stronger then the T56. The steel flywheel adds 12# extra to the assembly which allows it to feel ‘stockish.’ Without the extra weight, mcleod’s unsprung hub clutch disks (there is no room for springs in the clutch disk hubs) feel very grabby and abrupt, making it not feel like a street car and a PITA in normal driving, ESPECIALLY if you drive it in traffic.
- if it’s mostly a race car then go with the aluminum flywheel Mcleod, but for that matter, if it is mostly a race car why not just get a real SFI bellhousing and convert to a ‘normal’ clutch setup?

FWIW, the old mcleod setup (where you rebuild the slave with a smaller sleeve so it has more throwout) is MUCH nicer and works better then the newer adjustable master setup. The adjustable master cylinder setup just never feels quite right to me, as far as I know the only reason that they switched is that it seems that most people couldn’t seem to rebuild the slave with the new parts without screwing it up (I actually wrote directions with illustrations for them but they were never used because they decided to switch to the master setup).

If I didn’t own my Al ST, I’d probably just run a stock flywheel, PP and just experiment with replacement clutch disks (Ram would be the top of my list). It only takes 2 hours to swap and you can get clutch disks for $50-100. Just treat it like a wear item, replace them once a year or after X passes and only mess with the flywheel/pp if they’re showing signs of problems (which they usually don’t unless you wait till after it’s slipping to replace it). If I was feeling rich I’d probably shell out for a steel ST and completely skip all the throwout hassles and adapt a girling ¾” or 7/8” slave to the setup.

 

for the research ive done on here and on other sites for my next clutch, i have heard street twin over and over again. just about everyone i asked said that getting it gave them one less thing to worry about later on.

i was worried about the price at first, but if you figure 550ish for the spec stage 3/4 clutch, and then another 40-50 to get your flywheel resurfaced, you might as well spend the extra 250 on top of that and not have to worry about it again

 

what about my stock pressure plate? do i need a new one? or can i just get the street twin...resurface my flywheel and im ready to go? thanks for the input bad azz also one other thing, i can get a alumnium flywheel off of ebay for 289.00 bucks..is it worth it? i have a blown motor...figured less rotating mass may get my car to rev faster? or no..again thanks for the help




Steve

 

I paid $875.00 for the Mcleod S/T . I got Steel Flywheel, Pressure Plate, 2-discs, Adjustable stainless master cylinder. I'm telling you after installing this and driving it I wouldn't go any other way. I've drivin in stop & go traffic and I don't really notice the increased peddle pressure unless I drive my Cobra and then get back in the Z. You might pay a little more but you get a helluva lot better clutch set-up

 

rcf925 where did ya get that setup from? im just tryin to gather all the info i can...im sure its worth it..but..its just hard for me to spend 900.00 bucks on it..but...if i have 2 i guess i will...








Steve

 

I went with a SPEC stage 3 kevlar when it came time to replace my stocker. It's a great clutch, supposedly capable of 500rwhp. I'm only pushing about 440 on mine and it doesn't slip a bit even powershifting at 6K, plus it feels exactly like a stock clutch. My only problem is it's a royal pain to put the car into reverse but that may be a bent shift fork or something. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Chris

97 Trans AM WS6
7lb Vortech, Mac Headers & Y-pipe wo/Cats, Dynomax Ultraflow
40 lb Injectors, 58mm Holley TB, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, B&M Shifter
Crane 1.6 RRs, 17x9 AR Torq Thrust IIs
12.3 @ 112 Traction limited