whats up guys, i got a price estimate from combination motorsports for a complete bottem end in parts and thought i would run it by everyone and see what they think. This is for a 355 8.3-8.5:1 ptk t76 a-2-w setup.

ONce the parts get in i will be pulling the motor(stock) and dissasimbling it to a bare block and sending it to don lee auto with these parts.
Once he is done maching/assembling i will fork over the $, assemble the top end and drop her back in the car.
I will also be:
- sending the heads to a local shop just to get the valves lapped to the seats, seals replaced and new lt4 springs/1.6 rockers.
1. copper head/intake gaskets (any brand suggestion?)
2. inspect/replace cam bearings
3. install "white" spring for oil pump
4. should i do anything with the timing chain? upgrade?
5. tubular K-member
6. install F.A.S.T. once motor is back in the car...or should i do that first before i pull the motor??
7. different motor mounts or keep stock?
Cant really think of anything else right now. any input is appreciated.

callies dragonslayer- 3.48in/- 795.00
callies forged compstar 5.7in- 439.97
JE pistons set, -31cc includes pins, spiro-locks- 649.99
je hellfire ring set 1/16, 1/16, 3/16- 139.99
clevite(H) series rod bearing set poly dyn coated- 109.99
clevite(H) series main bearing set poly dyn coated- 109.99
arp main stud kit with bolts- 69.99
felpro lower end gasket set- 59.99
shipping- 60.00
TOTAL- 2,434.77

 

Sounds like you have a good bottom end going for you. But, i would suggest while you're throwing money at the bottom end and a turbo kit to go ahead and go for at least some ported TFS (195cc) or AFR (210cc) heads. You can make some power with stock heads, but you'll want to make as much power as possible on as little boost as possible....IOW, spend the money on better heads. Remember, the higher you go in boost, the more money and headache you're gonna face in trying to cool that hot intake charge. The better your heads flow the less boost you need to make any given amount of power. Not to mention you'll be able to make more power on pump gas and low timing. Too many people understate the importance of good flowing and efficient heads in forced induction setups.

My $.02

 

oh no worries there... some arf210s are for sure in the future... just trying to get the turbo setup going and get all the bugs worked out and see how she runs and learn how to tune my car. THen when $$$ permitting some fully ported afr210s with lt4 intake will be unleashed on the beast... BTW i also have the fuel issue covered thanks to racetronix, rearend is stock for right now but will be going 9" after the motor gets put back in the car.
-Tony

 

I'm about to build a new short block and had looked at JE pistons, but the only off the shelf pistons I saw with the 31 cc dish was for a 383, are those custom pistons you're ordering, everything else looks good though, reason I was asking is cause I havn't ordered the pistons yet and the ones you're getting are exactly what I want, do you have a part #?

 

Sounds fine to me except the copper head gaskets. They aren't necessary and they will leak (seep), much more likely than not. Annoying on a street car though not a problem on a race car. FelPro gaskets will likely be fine, but you could run an MLS head gasket like the Cometic if you prefer. These too tend to seep, but not nearly as bad as copper. The key with the MLS (or the copper) to minimizing/elimnating seepage is proper surface preparation on the block and head decks along with meticulous installation technique.

JE will make you a "custom" for essentailly the same price as on off-the-shelf. As will most of the hi-po piston shops.

Rich

 

I dont have a part number...i will look into it for you, but that raises a question for me. what is the difference between a 383 piston and a normal (355) piston? What is the difference?
thanks,
Tony
Anyone have any opinions on my timing chain/motor mount questions?

 

I'm not exactly sure, but I think the wrist pin is in a different location on the 383 pistons. I also would like to know the correct answer to this.

 

Not sure about the timing chain and motor mount issue, but I haven't heard much on the forums about people breaking either one of these items.

 

I still have my stock motor mounts. Unless you like vibration, don't substitute even poly mounts and definitely stay away from solid mounts for a street car.

Yes, it's the location of the wrist pin that differs. The "compression height" (CH) of a piston refers to the distance between the center line of the pin bore and the flat part of the piston crown. This is what will differ between the two. CH can be calculated by subtracting 1/2 the stroke and the rod length from the block deck height. The number which results is the CH for a "zero deck". Zero deck is when the flat part of the piston crown is flush with the block deck. If a shorter CH is used, the piston will be "down in the hole". A longer CH and it will protrude from the block at TDC. CH tus influences the static CR and also the quench distance. A typical hot street or street/strip small block will be zero decked with a gasket ~0.040", giving a quench of 40 thousanths.

Stock OEM small blocks have a 9.025" deck height and the piston down in the hole. That's why one of the most common block prep operations is to "deck" the block. The idea is to be sure the deck is flat, smooth, straight and perpendicular to the mains as well as to make it easier to get to zero deck with off the shelf rods and psitons. For example, a zero deck small block with 5.7" rods would need the following CH if the block deck were reduced to 9.000" even.

3.48/2 = 1.74+5.7 = 7.44
9.00-7.44 = 1.56"

If you look at a piston catalog, you will see lots of small block pistons with a 1.55" CH, because this is such a common combo (5.7 stock rod length and 3.48" stock stroke with a zero deck).

To test your understanding, be the first to post the necessary CH for a 6" rod and the stroke needed for a 383 and a 396. Then, for the Grand Prix, use a CR calculator to see the change which occurs with zero deck, 0,025" in the hole, and 0.010" proud!

Rich

 

timing chain: cloyes double roller .....don't skimp. You don't want your timing chain to break. You will destroy your motor. It is actually cheaper for the double roller than the lt4 heavy duty
with the double roller you need an electric water pump
Go with stock motor mounts or poly mounts.

 

I only saw mention of studs....are you planing on retaining 2 bolt mains?

You may come to regret that choice if you plan on running lots of boost (which an AFR headed, PTK Turbo car should do). I would recommend 4 bolt splayed mains if you plan on using the motor like it appears you will. They are cheap parts wise, but expensive machine wise.

JMO

 

good catch there... i def. do not plan a 2 bolt main... i will contact them to fix these problems. thanks

 

Your compression ratio will be closer to 8.8 or 9 to won't it? Didn't think people could get the CR down that far without going to TF or AFR heads.

Mikey

 

If his block is zero decked that comes out to 8.8 to 1 if he uses 54 cc chambers, still not sure what the LT1 chambers are there seems to be a debate on wether they are 54 or 58 cc. If his block hasn't been decked that would give him 8.5 to 1 and those numbers are with a .039 compressed head gasket but he was wanting to go with a copper or cometic gasket which you can get alot thicker though. Just make sure to keep quench below .070